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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good day to all! i reside in SAN ANTONIO,TX but am
presently in TEXARKANA, TX. i have a 2013 RRS L320(not supercharged). i have recently rebuilt the front passenger suspension and have put four hundred highway miles to try and break in the new components. everything worked great and then all the sudden this morning on the highway the car slipped out of gear while traveling at 75 mph while on cruise control. the recent repairs, that i did myself, included an upper and lower control arm, hub assembly and rotor. also i rebuilt the caliper. all
of these repairs are on the passenger side front only. they were necessary due to someone stealing my vehicle and outrunning 20 police cars and a helicopter, then hastily jumping a set of raised train tracks.

i coasted to a stop on the shoulder selecting four low and limped into the nearest truck stop where it sits now. the car will move in forward and reverse as long as the selector is in low four and the tires are straight. it does makes a grinding noise when the selector is moved to park. please advise.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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156 Posts
Sir, I think it is best recommended to take it to the repair facility and have physically inspected. Remote guess would be poking the sky. I'd out out that there are many members here that had their RRS stolen, outrunning 20 police cars and a helicopter, then hastily jumping a set of raised train tracks and can share issues and remedies that came as result of that.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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643 Posts
I agree. If you have drive in low range then you most likely have an issue in the transfer case - try doing a hard reset and maybe the computers will reset themselves and if the issue is transfer case ECU driven it may correct. If not definitely into the shop and start with getting the codes read.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree. If you have drive in low range then you most likely have an issue in the transfer case - try doing a hard reset and maybe the computers will reset themselves and if the issue is transfer case ECU driven it may correct. If not definitely into the shop and start with getting the codes read.
i took it Land Rover and dropped it off reluctantly. i say reluctantly because it wasn’t throwing any codes after changing the battery but it was still grinding when returning the car to park. seems like an electronic actuator problem but also might have been the battery. i had to put a non land rover battery in it due to
geographical location at that moment. i got a $261 AGM Platinum from Autozone which had more than the required amount of CCA. so we will see. thanks for the input anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i took it Land Rover and dropped it off reluctantly. i say reluctantly because it wasn’t throwing any codes after changing the battery but it was still grinding when returning the car to park. seems like an electronic actuator problem but also might have been the battery. i had to put a non land rover battery in it due to
geographical location at that moment. i got a $261 AGM Platinum from Autozone which had more than the required amount of CCA. so we will see. thanks for the input anyways.
well unfortunately according to Land Rover Shreveport, LA it will take $18k to repair.
including front and rear transmissions, gear box as well as steering arm and lower control arm which are both brand new. Jeez i have never seen an assessment that was seemingly so lazy. they put everything on it but the kitchen sink! i am trailering the vehicle this morning and pulling it back to san antonio where i have my shop and lift so i can try and go through their list and look at some of these issues. i just don’t understand how it was running perfectly on cruise at 75 to needing all new transmissions and gearbox. i have never had this vehicle off road. anyways thank you all for you replies. i am a new user if this forum but will always be a contributer going forward.
 

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Why would you not have had the car totaled if you have proof of this happening? "outrunning 20 police cars and a helicopter, then hastily jumping a set of raised train tracks" or did you buy it back at a reduced cost and are now trying to repair it?

Here is the info on the 4x4 system including limp home mode description.
How are you checking codes? OBDII generic or IIDtool? Is there any warning lights or flashing buttons?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Calibration procedure without IIDtool:
1. Switch ignition to position II without the engine running
2. Select automatic or manual transmission neutral
3. Depress the throttle pedal fully
4. Press and hold the range change switch for 5 or more seconds to allow calibration to start
5. When the calibration is heard to start, the switch and throttle pedal can be released
6. Upon adopting high range, start the engine and wait 30 seconds while the first calibration of the clutch in high range is done. While this calibration process is in progress, no shifting is accepted
7. Switch ignition off and wait 15 seconds z Start engine
8. Perform a range change to low range. Wait 30 seconds while the first calibration of the clutch in low range is done. While this calibration process is in progress, no shifting is accepted
9. Switch ignition off and wait 15 seconds
10. Range and clutch calibration is now complete.
 

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Yeah, good question. I mean, why not just take a dealer's word, let them invite an adjuster from insurance and have insurance pay for whatever dealer deems necessary. If you dont want the track to be totalled off that is. Seems like you worry and way too much about something you should not. Pretty much any reasonable person would/should take the vehichle to a dealer after theft and chase and RR tracks jump and have them repair any possible mechanical damages. I would leave the keys, phone number and ask them to call when everything is done, jump in to loaner and leave.
 
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