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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 Range Rover Supercharged. I have some front wheel vibration when i brake over 50mph. I posted on some forums and got feedback that I may need to replace my front rotors. Did some research and ordered new front brake pads and rotors. I jacked up the car today to find out that the bolt holding one of the rotors seems to be missing on the driver side.


Picture of Passenger side rotor --- Looks good:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uwZiMDVXaKoONNbg2JGdrHGUn-Rgo-l5/view?usp=sharing


Driver side rotor -- Looks like its missing a bolt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hJNc9knxCMCMBIBfbu-nnNWpEE4OpHRV/view


Is there another place where the bolt is supposed to be? Should I be looking somewhere else? How do I get the rotor out? I have tried hitting it with a mallet but cannot get it to come out.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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based on the missing bolt picture ,
the rotor was not properly aligned with the threaded hole on the hub flange.
NOTE in that picture you dont see any threaded hole or broken off bolt, just the hub flange.

To remove the rotor with minimum hammering and possibly damaging the bearing, from excessive force.

Spray some PB blaster on the rotor face so the fluid will wick into the stud holes and the hub mounting collar,
let it soak for a few mins,
then get a MAPP gas torch and heat the outside area of the rotor hat,
about 200 degrees should be sufficient for the rotor come off,
hit the rotor from behind and it should come free.
get a new shouldered bolt to hold the rotor on the hub.

NOTE a missing rotor bolt will not cause a wheel shimmy.

NOTE you should have all 4 of the wheels checked for balance,
and make sure the wheels are fitting snugly on the hub collars.

NOTE if your wheels dont fit the hub collars,
then alignment collars might be needed to center the wheels on the hub flange
 

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where are you hitting it with a mallet? If you smash it on the hat (not the rotor) it should eventually pop off. Or if you have an impact hammer with a blunt bit just zapping the hat in various places should also break apart all the rust holding it on. Otherwise what mrmerlin said! then during refit use antiseize so it isn't a problem next time.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the information. I got the rotor out after couple of tries of torching it to 200 degrees (2nd try). I was hoping for a broken bolt but it seems like the technician just didn't bother to put it on.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11vEJQl8W9KM9HIxIcZQjxUmX_afpSwbn/view?usp=sharing


Working on the passenger side now. It has the bolt and I took it off but its still not waiting to come out. Sprayed some sea form deep creep and will try to use your technique again tomorrow.


Ordered a set of 4 rotor bolts from Atlantic British. Hoping to get them in the next 2 days so I can put it back together.


based on the missing bolt picture ,
the rotor was not properly aligned with the threaded hole on the hub flange.
NOTE in that picture you dont see any threaded hole or broken off bolt, just the hub flange.


To remove the rotor with minimum hammering and possibly damaging the bearing, from excessive force.


Spray some PB blaster on the rotor face so the fluid will wick into the stud holes and the hub mounting collar,
let it soak for a few mins,
then get a MAPP gas torch and heat the outside area of the rotor hat,
about 200 degrees should be sufficient for the rotor come off,
hit the rotor from behind and it should come free.
get a new shouldered bolt to hold the rotor on the hub.


NOTE a missing rotor bolt will not cause a wheel shimmy.

NOTE you should have all 4 of the wheels checked for balance,
and make sure the wheels are fitting snugly on the hub collars.


NOTE if your wheels dont fit the hub collars,
then alignment collars might be needed to center the wheels on the hub flange
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update for everyone.

Got the second rotor out as well. Used this guys bolt technique that turned out to be a much better method than banging at the thing. Worked like a charm. Rotor came out in a minute with no banging.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw

Replaced the rotors and brake pads. No more vibrations while braking.

Time to finally get on the road and burn some rubber.

Thank you all for your inputs.
 

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Just received my Stop Tech front rotors and when I mounted the new rotor on the right front hub, the rotor bolt hole does not line up with hole in the hub. Can I leave the Torx head bolt off? Will the lug nuts hold the rotor in place or am I asking for trouble? Of course it’s Saturday and Tire Rack is closed. Double checked part orderEd and it is correct part on their website.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Just received my Stop Tech front rotors and when I mounted the new rotor on the right front hub, the rotor bolt hole does not line up with hole in the hub. Can I leave the Torx head bolt off? Will the lug nuts hold the rotor in place or am I asking for trouble? Of course it’s Saturday and Tire Rack is closed. Double checked part orderEd and it is correct part on their website.
What year L322? I too used Stoptechs from Tirerack and they were a perfect fit.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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these rotor bolts are only there to help keep the rotor stable while putting a wheel back on or mounting the caliper. Its a convenience thing not a safety thing. once you've mated the wheel up to the rotor and snugged it all down, you are good. depending on where you live you will have a nice layer of corrosion holding the rotor on the next time you remove your wheel.
 
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