They're not torque to yield bolts, so just pulling the bolts, cleaning them, and a tiny bit of high temp thread locker is fine (unless they're damaged). Tho I use anti seize with no locker this way it's cake going back in for your next brake job. Some people prefer locker, I don't. Also as for the torque values I've never used them on any brake job I've done, get them hand tight, rap on the end of the wrench a few times with a rubber mallet and it's fine. They're not going anywhere. Also as for the size of the bolt I want to say 17 but could easily be wrong. If you have a complete socket set you'll be fine.
If this is your first time doing brakes you'll want a small sledge hammer... I like to use a 5 pound sledge for 1.) loosening the caliper bolts by aggressively smacking the end of the wrench. You'll also need it to remove the rotors... 1.) remove the torx locking bolt on the face of the hat 2.) smash the sides of the hat with the sledge until the rotor is loose (this may take some effort depending on the condition of the existing rotors). I clean everything to the 9's once it's all apart, then anti seize EVERYTHING upon refit. Again, when you use antiseize the next time you go in to work on your brakes it all comes apart vs everything permanently rusted together. I'm not talking gobs of it, just a thin coating on mating surfaces. Then brake lube/grease the backs of the pads relevant friction surfaces.
