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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok- Here is the whole sordid tale along with the positive ending. Long time lurker here.

SO- wifey is visiting the kids in another state and I figured I would tackle the small (occasional) coolant leak while she was gone. I figured I would order the supercharger coupler as well for the next time she heads out and I have free time.

So I order up the water pump and the plastic tube/seals. Watched a few videos and it looks pretty easy peasy. I got everything removed and then proceeded to pull the water pump. 73K miles, and I could clearly see this was a new(er) pump. tiny bit of sealant, so I figure it was a local shop (this car is new to us) Now to install. I then proceeded to put the plastic tube on the aluminum tube and turn it a quarter turn. Odd. NO resistance in turning it, and its loose. I'll just assemble it and wrap up- I don't want to spend all weekend on this, amirite? OK, all buttoned up- time to put the coolant in. Whats that sound? coolant leaking onto the ground at a pretty brisk pace. Maybe I missed something. second verse same as the first. Same thing. So I start looking for clear pics of the aluminum tube because it doesnt look quite right. after about an hour I finally found a CLEAR picture of the tube and lo and behold, it has a black plastic support behind it to keep it from bending/kinking. Mine does not. Furthermore, it is getting pretty clear that the aluminum tube is bent. I surmise the last person in there removed the plastic support and, well it bent. Straighten it out you say? Done. Button it up AGAIN, leaks all over the place. OK, so I guess I will have to replace that tiny aluminum tube, lets see if I can look it up. No go. Searching parts catalogs- nada. Ok, time to find a pic Showing where it goes. I FINALLY found one- and it looks like it is part of the oil cooler. UGH. Supercharger out time. I ordered the parts and got cracking on disassembly. OK WHOS IDEA WAS IT TO MAKE REMOVING THE REARMOST TWO BOLTS GO IN SUCH A TIGHT AREA?? Also, WHY. WHY are the intake gaskets not identical?

I removed the drivers side (US) charge cooler, and the same for the other side- much easier to pull out that way. There are a few connections on the back to address (tiny hands would have been nice here) and so I pulled it out. Looking at the mess of vacuum and wires on the firewall, I saw GASP a broken vacuum tube that WAS part of the idle control unit. There was epoxy on it, so someone had worked on it before. $200 says I need to fix it again, only better which I did. So now onto the oil cooler. so.many.bolts. pulled it out and compared it to the new one and it was OBVIOUS why I had a leak prior to working on it and after putting the water pump on.
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Engineering

So the next part Was putting it back on- fairly straightforward.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Auto part Gas

While I am at it- may as well change the supercharger oil and coupler:
Automotive tire Table Motor vehicle Outdoor bench Road surface

That snout was very happy in its location and had no desire to move. Much careful persuading to get it off. Also, You will likely have to adjust the bypass stop because you have to remove the bellows to separate the snout from the body. The snout is not part of the oily bits, so I could have skipped changing the oil, but it seemed like a smart thing to do. The oil smells (to me) like limburger cheese. Not great, but not as bad as diff oil.
I also cleaned the throttle body as well, because why not?

I put the left side charge cooler on and put it in position, but tilted up and then bolted on the other side after it was in the engine compartment so it would be a little lighter to drop in. A friend would have been REALLY helpful here both in removing and putting in the SC. Oh well, I just had to get creative.
Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Couple things- I did NOT tighten the drivers side tiny coolant hose clamp under the throttle body- BIG MISTAKE. I managed to tighten it after the coolant cross pipe was on, but it wasnt easy. I managed to NOT break any coolant connectors, which I am pretty happy about and I also replaced the overflow bottle, which was a bit yellowed from age. From a shade tree mechanics perspective it was about a 7/10 difficulty and 10/10 time intensive project. Back still hurts.

No more projects on this one for awhile, I may do the chains this year as well. I've done MANY 4.0 and 4.2 Jaguar chains, so am familiar.

Thanks to those that posted videos and pics, it was REALLY helpful. I figured another thread on the subject would not be a bad idea- let me know if you have questions, I'll monitor this thread for a bit.
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