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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone, it's been awhile since I posted. Haven't had any issues until this week!! Did some searching on coolant leaks and found which items need to be replaced and it appears I didn't replace them soon enough.
A bit of background... Started getting the "coolant level low" and would top it off. Could smell the coolant after parking the vehicle but could not see any leaks or hear any hissing. No puddles after sitting for a bit also. The other day the wife and I went into town made a stop at Home Depot then went to a burger joint. While sitting in line at the drive through, the vehicle started shaking and I could see white smoke or steam coming from the rear of the vehicle. This is when I saw the warning light saying something about "optimal performance". I got out of line and parked it. Got on the phone to AAA for a tow. While waiting, I checked the oil level and the coolant temp. Both were within normal. Opened the hood and could not see any coolant leaks, although as always, I could smell it. I tried to start the vehicle and all it did was crank over as if there was no fuel. When I took my finger off the "Start", it kept cranking!! I opened the door and it stopped. When AAA got there we had an issue with the parking brake releasing and getting the windows up as if the battery was weak. I was finally able to see coolant leaking from the front when we towed it up on the flatbed!! When I got the vehicle home, I tested the battery and it was only at 12.04 volts. I put the trickle charger on it and it took 2 days for 100% charge. Battery sits at 12.94 volts. Still no start or even a cranking. Just a hum as if the fuel pump was started?
I've tried the resetting of the "service" with the hood and brake and accelerator pedals. Still nothing. What next?
No water in the oil because I was thinking blown head gasket. Still could be blown I guess.
Engine seized? Hope not. That's why I'm looking at trying to start it.
I called a local Indy guy and he says unless you keep an eye on the coolant temp gauge you'll never know when it's hot! No idiot lights!!
I have a new water pump, both front and rear crossover tubes, and the tube that sits behind the water pump to replace. But first I want to see if it's too late meaning I'll need to replace the [email protected]!
Water pump was replaced by the factory 20,000 miles ago under the CPO warranty. The vehicle currently has 99,005 miles on it.
Thanks for any suggestions or help with this matter. "fingers crossed" Sorry for the long initial post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Still messing with it and let me add this bit of info...
When I go to start it, the entire thing shuts down. I can go in there, turn the key on and hear the radio playing, dash lights up and then press the brake and start it, shuts everything down!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. We we're working on it yesterday and started checking all the electrical aspects of the staring system. We found that the mega fuse at the battery connection was blown. We replaced it and still nothing. The starter did make a clicking noise, then again the entire electrical shut down!! I pulled the #2 and #4 spark plugs looking for coolant and there's nothing in there. I'm able to turn the motor over by hand leading me to believe there's no hydro static locking of the engine. All the misfires from the code reader said the even cylinders that's why I've only pulled those spark plugs. We took a break for dinner keeping the battery on the charger and went back out there to try again. Smelled fuel and the #4 cylinder was filled with gas and spilling over. More things leading me to believe it's an electrical issue some where. Why would there be a signal telling the fuel system to operate??? I'm going down the rabbit hole!!:oops:

Thanks again for any help diagnosing this. Haven't even replaced any of the coolant components until I figure this electrical issue out.
A local Indy guy said I could do a hard reset by connecting the negative cable to the positive terminal? Anyone heard of this? Sounds risky.
 

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Sir, please add you're location, model, year, engine type to your signature. I am surprised Moderator did not ask you about it yet. Also it will be easier for others to analyze what could be the issue.
As far as terminals, yes it is a common practice. take both terminals off the battery and short them for few minutes, obviously leaving the battery out of a circuit. Also consider that may be just by coincidence your battery has failed as well, regardless of anything else and may be gives out 12.something volts (which I think still low for a fully charged battery, should be 13.5 - not 100% sure) but does not have a capacity needed and once loaded drops the V and system freaks out being sensitive to the battery voltage as we're all know.
So, yes, shorting leads with disconnected battery is being done. I do not want you to spend more money just because I said so but if you replaced your battery long time ago, may be, just may be it is time for a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Roman, Thank you.
I will add that info. It's a 2011 RRS with the 5.0 NA engine. I live in Templeton, CA.
The battery was replaced 2 or 3 years ago.
We took the battery down last night to have it load tested. They said they could not load test it without it being in the vehicle. Neighbor had a load tester and we tested it and it showed it was fine.
Last night before we broke for dinner, the dash was saying charge battery! We had it on the charger and it said it was charged before we found the #4 cylinder leaking the fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Battery tested great!!
Started looking at the fuel relay and is it normal to have 9.3v going to it with the key in the off position? I have 12.3 going to it with the key in the on position. Starter relay and the fuel relay were tested and both are working. Still have nothing when I go to start it. Everything just shuts down!
 
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