2011 L322 engine swap

I did sift through probably 20-30 pages when I searched but didn't find a whole bunch that was relevant to what I'm asking. Obviously I wouldn't have posted if I had found what I was looking for, hence the post! Lol probably just not using the search button properly but in my defense I HATE the internet and 99% of what takes place on it so you'll have to bear with me!

Did JLR change any internal parts between the supercharged 5.0l's? Like forged crank or better rods or anything like that or did they just go with what worked and stuck with it?

Where does the extra power come from between the two different platforms....specs are showing the RR at 510bhp while the Jag shows 470ish bhp....I suspect it's in the tuning but i would love to hear more feedback.

I ordered a timing kit from Cloyes before I got this new engine as I had intended to fix the engine that's in the truck, however, last oil change was showing a bunch of bearing material in the filter pleats...I realize that's fairly normal for an engine with higher kms but the truck came from an area where the residents in that particular part of this cesspool are rather lackadaisical about maintenance or proper driving etiquette ect so I have cause for concern.
Again, I did buy the truck knowing all this but I REALLY like the L322 and I'd like to have mine for another 10-15 years. Theres nothing else in the market right now that catches my eye and spending $250k+ for a 2023 in the current market is ludacris imo.
Anyway, thanks again for any help, it is much appreciated!

Well I know a couple people on here have done it and talked about what they needed to change. I know the search function isn't great but you should be able to find some useful information. For the most part, this site stays away from petty arguments and focuses on the common reason we are here.
On Wikipedia (something useful on the internet) there is a Jag AJ V8 wiki, scroll down to the AJ133 generation and expand the table showing all the Jag and LR's using this motor and their power ratings. It does mention early versions using a Denso ECU instead of Bosch, that may account for slight differences. But there is Jags with 510hp, identical to the LR version. In the smaller packaging, exhaust routing may have had a small effect as well. As far as I know, the internals are all the same among SC 5.0 versions with the exception of somewhere past the L322, the timing guides were updated. The 470hp version probably had a software de-rate to create the 40hp spread so they could charge more for the XFR. As stupid as that sounds, its done by many companies. You might want to confirm the SC pulleys sizes are identical.

Pumpkin_Eater69 said:

Where does the extra power come from between the two different platforms....specs are showing the RR at 510bhp while the Jag shows 470ish bhp....I suspect it's in the tuning but i would love to hear more feedback.

Click to expand...

XKR, XFR, XJR:



RR, RR Sport:



Disregard the capacity difference, Jaguar and RR are same. Actually it's a simple swap - once your engine is out the RR, remove all ancillaries that do not look like their counterparts on the Jaguar engine and fit them one by one to the Jag engine. Internally they are exactly the same.

If I come off as a bit of an a-hole I apologize.... I do very much appreciate the help!

I come from another Green Oval site where the most action is in the Disco 2 section...which I had and got lots of help from that site but hard to get much reliable help on the L322 and newer.

I have the new motor on my stand right now...im getting it stripped down to do the timing set and then the swap itself. I have most of the accessories off, pulled the valve covers...why the hell did they design the covers so you have to remove the injectors?
I noticed when pulling the injectors there's ALOT of crap stuck down in the holes. I also noticed very black tips on the injectors themselves...is there any point trying to have the injectors cleaned or just put new ones in?
Also, I'm this deep into the engine....its on a stand, should I just bite the bullet and take it to a shop and have them pull heads, check for warping and check bearings or will it be fine to just slap it in? It's showing signs of leaking coolant in the normal spot behind the oil filter housing but the block is clean with no oil leaks or anything....the areas between the head and block SEEM ok. I'm torn because I was told the engine and trans have 100k kms but I was also told the transmission was an 8HP and when picked it up it turned out to be a 6hp28 so I'm having doubts.

First off: Pretty straightforward to modify a Jaguar model origin motor to an RR.

The Jag oil pan is biased towards the front, the RR towards the rear (with a “tunnel” allowing the right side driveshaft to pass through) and the mounting points for the front differential.

The sump/oil pan, oil pan pickup and (the lower half of the vacuum) oil change pipe will need to be swapped in from your original RR motor.

As the blocks are common to Jag and RR, all bores for attachments to either are already milled but not necessarily tapped (money saving).

In your (previous Jag motor) case there’s a 6mm tapping threaded to secure the [short] oil pan pickup. A 6mm tapping will need to be added for the existing bare hole in the block to secure the longer RR oil pan pickup. It’s straightforward using a 6mm tap and some patience. The original bolt from the RR motor can then be inserted and torqued to complete the rear noses oil pickup swap.

You’ll also need to swap over the engine harness from the RR to the Jag as the connectors to the ECM are different.

Rob

As to your concern regarding the condition of your Jag sourced motor:

Direct injection motors require high fuel line pressure (up to 2000 psi in some instances) so the injectors certainly get a good workout considering their tips are subjected to the combustion chamber process .

If not already done so, remove the intake system and look for carbon buildup on the back of the valves. Now’s a good time to have that walnut blasted if needed (it will be).

DI injectors require specialists who have the equipment to test, clean then retest the injectors. Make sure whichever vendor you use has this available.

If you’re going to have the chains and tensioners taken care of anyway you may as well have the heads checked given the need for just a bit more work to remove the heads right now. if there’s any doubt that the motor may have previously been cooked I’d have the heads checked for straightness and if they’re “out” you can appeal to the vendor that you want to return the motor if it was sold as a good, running motor.

Rob

Yes, the right side driveshaft needs to be completely removed. If your shop’s planning to leave the differential attached (I wouldn’t) the left side driveshaft would need to be removed too.

Fwiw, the motor will pull through the radiator aperture once the front bumper, ducting and radiator and condenser are removed.

I’ve found this to be the easiest method on an L322.

Dropping the exhaust first on a lift and disconnecting the downstream O2 sensor connectors too while it’s elevated makes it even easier.

If pulling through the front the steering rack also has to be removed, along with the front bumper/radiator mounting tubes subframe.

It’s been a while since I last swapped out a late L322 motor so from memory that should cover most of the differences/techniques necessary to adapt a Jag to an RR.

Rob

I suppose if I'm in that deep it's not gonna make any difference.
Here's a couple pictures, dry around the head gaskets on both sides. Nothing to make me suspect it's been overheated or anything...clean inside, no sludge...seems promising. Working on getting the oil pan off now, more pictures to come.