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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About five days ago I noticed a hesitation while cruising at +/-60mph in my 2011 HSE; It happened 3 times within 20-30 seconds, but then ran fine. I assumed that it may have been something with the gas, as I had just filled it up that morning. Yesterday I felt the same sensation at about 40mph, while cruising on the outskirts of town, and then when I left from the next stop light it started running rather ragged & the reduced engine performance light came on. Still thinking of that gas, I limped it over to an auto parts store poured in some Lucas Fuel Treatment, topped her off with the highest no ethanol gas, and continued my limp to my meeting about 15 minutes away. It sat for about 2 hours and when I cranked her up to limp home, it was running like a top, no odd noises, lights, nothing. Convinced that it was the gas & that I had fixed it, I went on about my day picked my daughter up from school, took her home, went back to the office, and all the while she's running great! I went to leave from the office a couple hours later and it started again at about the 3rd stop light. Instead of heading straight home, I decided that I would limp it down some secondary roads until it cleared up, but no luck after about 20 minutes of driving so I headed home, and noticed that it was almost stalling completely out at stop signs (battery light would flash). Once home and placed it in "Park," it did stall out. Wondering if it could be the battery (~6 months old), I pushed the ignition button and it immediately cranked but did not start. It turned over & over until my panicked self opened the door while pushing the button to stop it.
I tried it again later last night with the same outcome.
This morning I hit the ignition button and it fired right up, but smoking heavily, idling ROUGH, smelling of fuel/oil, and I noticed that it had spat out oily looking spots onto the driveway from the exhaust.
I've decided to at least give her the day off until I can either remedy the problem or schedule her in at the LR dealership.
Any help or guidance would be most appreciated!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Paragraphs? That was kinda hard to read.....
Have you run any tests on it? Plugging it into a reader would be a good start.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LOL!!! I was hoping to paint the full picture.
I have not ran any tests yet, I am looking into ordering one now...
 

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Coolant level? Was it overheated?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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PCV valve, thats about the only way to get oil into the exhaust without having major engine damage which would probably have some knocking or valve train noises associated with it, short of a failed seal in the SC? Pull the vacuum line off the PCV valve(s) (doesn't the 2011's and up have two of them) and see if its coated in oil.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Coolant level & temperature were normal.
I began troubleshooting and found that I have developed a leak at my valve cover gasket. AND actually in the process of replacing now... just stepped in to see if there'd been any posts on replacing one because I'm sure that I have all 14 screws loose and it's not letting go.
 

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CNoble, did you get to the end of this? I know the topic is years old, but I don't want to flood the forum with new queries on old topics (this is my first post). I have an '09 L320 4.4 with same symptoms, which I recently bought. I bought the seller and the car - he seemed like a very thorough nice guy. He told me he had replaced the PCV, but I'm wondering whether a) he may have connected/done it improperly by accident or other, or b) whether the hoses may be at fault. I've ordered a new PCV valve, but should perhaps have ordered the hoses, too. I'm looking at youtube videos, but if you have a guide / other for how-to handle this, that would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!
 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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It would be very difficult to screw up the installation. One end of PCV plugs into the valve cover, the other end to a vacuum hose.

I bought a generic pcv valve and it was bad - burning oil and 'reduced engine performance'. Immediately when I started the engine it sounded like a huge vacuum leak.

Get an OEM one.
 

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It would be very difficult to screw up the installation. One end of PCV plugs into the valve cover, the other end to a vacuum hose.

I bought a generic pcv valve and it was bad - burning oil and 'reduced engine performance'. Immediately when I started the engine it sounded like a huge vacuum leak.

Get an OEM one.
Hi Lenlo,

Thanks a lot for the reply - that's comforting. I bought the OEM (Part Number LR003380G) from Atlantic British, it'll likely get here in a day or two. I'm wondering whether perhaps the hoses should be swapped as well - did you change yours? I'm wondering whether the other end of the hoses are, for the lack of a better / more technical term, far away/hard to reach, making the swap difficult? I'd buy OEM from Atlantic British there, too:

Hose PCV Left Valve Cover To Intake - Part Number 4585549G
PCV Valve To Intake Manifold - Part Number LR005991G

To be frank, I just noticed the description of the LR003380G as "Right Valve Cover For PCV Valve", which made me concerned that's just a cover - and not a new PCV Valve itself? I apologize for the ignorance here, but your help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Understand. Still, if I were to change the hoses, do you have a sense for what parts I need to buy?

Yesterday, I opened the hood and listened while the engine was running. Seemed almost like a hissing sound, which made me wonder whether the hoses are connected as they should be. Does that sound familiar? Assuming this is the issue, will remedying it get rid of the check engine light? I bought a code reader, but that won't arrive until tomorrow.
 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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Hissing would be a good description of the sound. It would be a pretty simple test to pull the pcv valve out of the valve cover and start it up. While it's running, plug the end that goes into the valve cover with your finger to see how the sound changes.
 

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I have to wait until I get my full tool set out to where I am. I'm waiting for a fault code reader, too - is there a way to read the codes without one?

I'm trying to read as much as I can on this forum, there is a wealth of knowledge here but without offending anyone, I hope it's Ok to say it's a bit disorganized. I trust asking in here is OK, as opposed to starting new threads about stuff already covered.
 

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Actually, I see 1399 and 14275 pop up on the screen below the speedometer when i turn the key to position 2, and it states service. Not sure what to make of that. It's also clear the engine uses a quite a bit of oil, i filled a quart the other day (before this began happening) and that's about 70 miles ago - level now back to where it was prior to that refill... I'm getting a little concerned.
 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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@MARK_C has already stated the issue clearly earlier in this thread. You need a new genuine pcv valve. There are a lot of bad Chyna aftermarket ones. Regarding the 1399 & 14275 - Look in your owners manual regarding service intervals.
 

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I received my tools today, so I was able to take out the PCV valve. I'm still waiting for the replacement, but I figured I'd share these pictures and see if they resonate with any of you. My observations were that it didn't exactly appear very solid... or sealed. I also thought the connecting hose (one o-ring) seemed like it might not be totally sealed off.

289959


289958
289960
289961
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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That PCV is obviously broken, my keen eye spotted the broken housing where you circled it in red. Why chase for alternative solutions when the unit is in such a shape.
 

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Yes, the reason I was asking for other stuff was basically to rule out everything I could. I'm totally new to this, and so more seasoned users of the forum (and these cars, obviously) may find some of the questions stupid - but maybe the next person might find them useful.

In any case, I replaced the PCV Valve today and drove the car about 5 miles. At first, it smoked just as bad, but then that wore off - I would suspect the oil in the system had to be discarded. The check engine light is still on, so I'll check the code for that now, when I get my fault code reader.

Thank you all for all the help so far!
 
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