I finally got this installed on my 2011. I took some notes and pictures. As doc1335 indicates, it is NOT a quick job. It took me probably 3.5 hours of actual work at a leisurely pace.
I picked up a used KNI000020 hitch from a breaker (for $100! I found it on car-part.com
and there were a bunch... strangely enough the cheapest was nearby). It was not damaged, but definitely had a used look. I had it sandblasted and powder coated and that did the trick. I decided to go ahead and install wiring at the same time and chose the Atlantic British harness to save a few bucks. It costs 1/2 what the genuine one costs and is still plug-and-play... aside from the lack of "Land Rover" logo on the cover, it looks just like the genuine version too.
I also got new fasteners for the electrics and muffler bracket. Here are the sizes and the Fastenal part numbers (for stainless steel).
4x M5-0.8x30 button socket cap screw (stainless steel): MB2540030A20000
2x M10-1.5 serrated hex flange nut (stainless steel): 11508503
2x M8-1.25x20 hex flange bolt (A2 stainless steel): 11508907
I followed the directions in the installation manual (you can get it from TOPIx, but I'll attach it anyway) and the following photos and commentary correspond to the steps in that.
Photo 1: Here is every hand tool that I actually used for this job, except for a bigger torque wrench for the four big bolts. The air tools were VERY handy.
Photo 2: One KNI000020 hitch, freshly powder-coated. Mine came from a breaker, so it came with the muffler brackets. Those are actually on the car already. They should not be attached to the hitch at this point anyway.
Steps 4-9: This applies to both sides, though the panels will vary slightly. Don’t think that you’re going to get away with only dismantling half of your Range Rover’s load space!
Step 5: Use a 6mm hex drive socket for the floor anchors. For the trim panel, twist the hook-thingy (that's a technical term) to remove it, leaving the clip attached to the body. I broke one, but at $0.80 from the dealer, it’s probably the least expensive part on the entire Range Rover.
Step 8: 10mm plastic nuts.
Step 9: There are two fir tree clips towards the edge that will prevent it from coming straight up as indicated.
Photo 3: The interior, gutted.
Photo 4: A big pile o’ interior bits.
Step 10: 17mm. A ratcheting wrench makes quick work of all of these except for two. For the two bolts on the far left, there is simply no room to work. I disconnected a white two-position electrical connector, which at least moves the wires that are smack in the middle of the way. A long extension, a long 17mm socket, and an air ratchet got the job done. If you do not have an air ratchet and compressor, get one now. It will be cheaper than an anger management course, which you’ll need otherwise...
Step 11: I have no idea what this is showing. My only uses is that it’s the backup sensor harness connector and you'll have much better/easier access to that later on. Skip this step and move on.
Step 13: 10mm.
Step 14: Use a trim tool.
Photo 5 / Steps 15-16: That's 3.94", 9.84", and 15.75" if you have a tape measure that is English only. I saw a few YouTube videos where the people just yank the panel off and, in turn, it breaks the clip hole on the bumper cover. Quick, but destructive. It might not even be noticeable after it’s all back together, but that’s a no-go for me. I took my time with a plastic trim tool.
Photo 6 / Step 17. Here's where the harness disconnects. I set the bumper on a scooter stool, which worked perfectly.
Photo 7: Bumper and cover, completely removed!
Photo 8: Here's where the trailer wiring harness goes through. It took longer to grab pliers to remove the cover than to install the harness. A little WD-40 will ensure that the new grommet slides right into place.
Photo 9 / Step 19: 15mm. On my used hitch, there was no way they were coming off without an impact gun. They were a lot cleaner on my Range Rover, but still a little rusty. I just reached for the impact gun anyway. If you don't have one, go ahead an apply some penetrating oil before you begin. A short jack stand fit perfectly to hold the muffler up whilst the hangars were off. Use plenty of anti-seize for reassembly.
Step 20: 21mm. I used a breaker bar to get them cracked, then the air ratchet with two extensions. These are alloy, so you won’t have to worry about rust.
Photo 10 / Step 21. This is what comes off.
Photo 11 / Step 23. No helper necessary, other than a floor jack!
The rest of the instructions are just the whole process in reverse. And the torque values are noted.
Photo 12: the finished product!
As for reconfiguring the ECU for the trailer wiring, a tech at the dealer told me that all it does is disable the backup parking sensors when trailer wiring is connected. I have a handy button to do that, so the ECU setting is deferred (probably indefinitely, unless my iLAND eventually supports it).