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2011 DIY tow hitch receiver install

15781 Views 18 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  luluchiboy
So I looked for months on definitive information that clearly stated which hitch receivers work with my 2011 RR. There seems to be a ton of conflicting information and not much else. The hitch receivers for the 2010-2012 (KNI000020) seem to be very difficult to come by and if you do find them, they are very expensive. So, being the cheap guy I am, I bought a receiver off eBay for $150 delivered. The thing is, it is off of a 2004. To be clear, it fits perfectly. The ONLY difference between the earlier (KNI000014) L322 receivers and the newer ones are the brackets that support the muffler. They need to be removed from your existing setup and reinstalled on the early-model hitch you procure. If you are the kind of guy (or gal) that is looking to DIY your install, you need some way to remove a couple of tack welds off the old muffler support brackets in order to transfer those two brackets to the new setup. I used a pneumatic 4" grinder and it took maybe 5 minutes of grinding to knock them off there.

Next, I've seen people on various forums saying the install "is easy-peasy, 30 minute job." No. Those people are wrong.
This is not a tutorial, although I would gladly write one if someone so desired, it is an involved job.
The basic steps are as follows:
1- Remove rear bumper cover from L322 (you can find Youtube videos for this). The backup sensors on the passenger side are a bear to disconnect, best to have a buddy help support the bumper so you don't strain the wiring.
2- Next, tear out ALL of the floor panels in your cargo area. You need to remove these in order to remove the actual bumper (don't get it confused with the bumper cover that you already removed). There are eight NUTS inside your cargo area, under the floor panels that needs removed; these hold the actual bumper on. Oh, and they are Ny-lock nuts so no spinning them off.
3- Sit the bumper on the floor so you can trip over it.
4- Now, here is a trick I learned. I'm not a "muffler guy" or anything and those stupid rubbery muffler hanger things were a royal PITA to remove. Here is what ended up working the easiest. I supported the muffler in the center with my floor jack. I lifted it just a touch to take the tension off the rubbery muffler hanger things. I then blocked the muffler up with two jack stands and removed the floor jack. Now, remove the two BIG bolts that go straight up and hold that big bracket on. Once those two bolts are out of the bracket, you can manipulate the bracket around and disengage the rubbery muffler hanger things. It sucks but it works. Do this to both sides.
5- Now, here is where we currently stand. You've got a bumper cover on the floor, a bumper on the floor, cargo area floor in complete disarray, muffler supported by jack stands, and the two brackets off. We are past the point of no return.
6- See those little tabs welded to the two brackets you just removed, grind them off. You need that muffler bracket hanger apparatus on the new setup.
7- Intermission - halfway point
8- Precariously balance your eBay hitch on your floor jack and draft your wife to help you balance it while you slowly and carefully manipulate the hitch receiver into position under the RR. Seriously, this thing is HEAVY.
9- Start a couple of the bolts so that stupid thing doesn't fall and smash the cat. I loosely started the rearward bolts on each side.
10- Now, take you muffler hanger brackets and scooch halfway up under the RR so you can contemplate poor life decisions while reinstalling those hangers. Attach them to the rubbery muffler hanger things, THEN run the bolt through it. Or do it the other way if you insist on doing things the hard way, I really don't care. No, I did not weld these muffler hangers to the new hitch receiver. I did not feel it necessary although I have a welder. This serves no structural purpose to the hitch receiver as far as I could tell.
11- Do NOT torque the bolts down yet. You want them loosely installed until after you complete step 13 as the whole receiver will move forward and seat properly.
12- Install your harness you picked up from Atlantic British for half the cost of OEM. Lube up that grommet with something as it will not fit otherwise. I used a touch Pam cooking spray. Plug in the harness inside the spare tire area, just left of center. The harness reaches with about a millimeter to spare. If you can't figure out where it plugs in, I'm not sure how you've survived to this point.
13- I installed the electric plug onto the hitch receiver at this point. It's just easier to do before you reattach the rear bumper. I flipped it both ways and ended up with it oriented to the left. If you try to install it closer to the center-line of the vehicle, you've got to cram the wiring kind of hard against the body and I didn't like that so I flipped it toward the driver's side. This will be obvious what I'm talking about when you get to this step.
14- Re-install the bumper. Next up, those God-foresaken 8 Ny-Locks nuts inside the cargo area. Torque to 45 Nm (or 33 ft/lbs in freedom units). See why we left those 4 monster bolts loose now?
15- Woohoo! Light at the end of the tunnel! Torque those 4 monsters down underneath!!! 165 Nm (122 ft/lbs in f.u.)
16- Reinstall your other crap. Look for lost bolts. Wonder why they used those plastic rivet things in one spot that wasn't on ANYTHING you read or looked at (haha). I think you've got it from here!!!

Maybe that is a semi-tutorial; I tend to be wordy.

I hope this helps someone who was in a situation similar to mine. If anyone sees anything fundamentally incorrect with what I've done, please speak up. Thanks for reading.
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Thanks so much for putting this together, it's super helpful. I'm about to go through this same process and was wondering if you happen to know what hardware is required to mount the hitch. Mine isn't coming with the bolts and I'm not sure what I'll need. Thanks again.
WOW - thank you for this! I finally tracked down the manual (no longer listed in TOPIx), but was still about to go absolutely mad sifting through all of the misinformation on this topic.

I'll be installing a used hitch mount on my 2011 eventually (later rather than sooner, given that the "it's a quick install" is amongst the misinformation) and will post any guidance here. I'm also trying to track down fastener sizes, so if anyone has any guidance on that (even general), I'd appreciate it. Either way, I'll post back here with any other observations and data.

Travis
You won't need any additional bolts to attach it, you re-use the ones that should be there already. It's really not a horrible process, worst part is getting the bumper cover off.
12
I finally got this installed on my 2011. I took some notes and pictures. As doc1335 indicates, it is NOT a quick job. It took me probably 3.5 hours of actual work at a leisurely pace.

I picked up a used KNI000020 hitch from a breaker (for $100! I found it on car-part.com and there were a bunch... strangely enough the cheapest was nearby). It was not damaged, but definitely had a used look. I had it sandblasted and powder coated and that did the trick. I decided to go ahead and install wiring at the same time and chose the Atlantic British harness to save a few bucks. It costs 1/2 what the genuine one costs and is still plug-and-play... aside from the lack of "Land Rover" logo on the cover, it looks just like the genuine version too.

I also got new fasteners for the electrics and muffler bracket. Here are the sizes and the Fastenal part numbers (for stainless steel).

4x M5-0.8x30 button socket cap screw (stainless steel): MB2540030A20000
2x M10-1.5 serrated hex flange nut (stainless steel): 11508503
2x M8-1.25x20 hex flange bolt (A2 stainless steel): 11508907

I followed the directions in the installation manual (you can get it from TOPIx, but I'll attach it anyway) and the following photos and commentary correspond to the steps in that.

Tool Toolbox Vehicle Auto part Car

Photo 1: Here is every hand tool that I actually used for this job, except for a bigger torque wrench for the four big bolts. The air tools were VERY handy.

Bumper Automotive exterior Tire Automotive tire Auto part

Photo 2: One KNI000020 hitch, freshly powder-coated. Mine came from a breaker, so it came with the muffler brackets. Those are actually on the car already. They should not be attached to the hitch at this point anyway.

Steps 4-9: This applies to both sides, though the panels will vary slightly. Don’t think that you’re going to get away with only dismantling half of your Range Rover’s load space!

Step 5: Use a 6mm hex drive socket for the floor anchors. For the trim panel, twist the hook-thingy (that's a technical term) to remove it, leaving the clip attached to the body. I broke one, but at $0.80 from the dealer, it’s probably the least expensive part on the entire Range Rover.

Step 8: 10mm plastic nuts.

Step 9: There are two fir tree clips towards the edge that will prevent it from coming straight up as indicated.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Trunk Sport utility vehicle

Photo 3: The interior, gutted.

Motor vehicle Tire Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle

Photo 4: A big pile o’ interior bits.

Step 10: 17mm. A ratcheting wrench makes quick work of all of these except for two. For the two bolts on the far left, there is simply no room to work. I disconnected a white two-position electrical connector, which at least moves the wires that are smack in the middle of the way. A long extension, a long 17mm socket, and an air ratchet got the job done. If you do not have an air ratchet and compressor, get one now. It will be cheaper than an anger management course, which you’ll need otherwise...

Step 11: I have no idea what this is showing. My only uses is that it’s the backup sensor harness connector and you'll have much better/easier access to that later on. Skip this step and move on.

Step 13: 10mm.

Step 14: Use a trim tool.

Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle door Auto part Vehicle

Photo 5 / Steps 15-16: That's 3.94", 9.84", and 15.75" if you have a tape measure that is English only. I saw a few YouTube videos where the people just yank the panel off and, in turn, it breaks the clip hole on the bumper cover. Quick, but destructive. It might not even be noticeable after it’s all back together, but that’s a no-go for me. I took my time with a plastic trim tool.

Automotive exterior Bumper Tire Vehicle Car

Photo 6 / Step 17. Here's where the harness disconnects. I set the bumper on a scooter stool, which worked perfectly.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive tire Tire

Photo 7: Bumper and cover, completely removed!

Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Car

Photo 8: Here's where the trailer wiring harness goes through. It took longer to grab pliers to remove the cover than to install the harness. A little WD-40 will ensure that the new grommet slides right into place.

Auto part Vehicle Automotive exterior Car Bumper

Photo 9 / Step 19: 15mm. On my used hitch, there was no way they were coming off without an impact gun. They were a lot cleaner on my Range Rover, but still a little rusty. I just reached for the impact gun anyway. If you don't have one, go ahead an apply some penetrating oil before you begin. A short jack stand fit perfectly to hold the muffler up whilst the hangars were off. Use plenty of anti-seize for reassembly.

Step 20: 21mm. I used a breaker bar to get them cracked, then the air ratchet with two extensions. These are alloy, so you won’t have to worry about rust.

Iron Bumper Metal Automotive exterior Auto part

Photo 10 / Step 21. This is what comes off.

Bumper Automotive exterior Vehicle Automobile repair shop Auto part

Photo 11 / Step 23. No helper necessary, other than a floor jack!

The rest of the instructions are just the whole process in reverse. And the torque values are noted.

Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Automotive tire Auto part

Photo 12: the finished product!

As for reconfiguring the ECU for the trailer wiring, a tech at the dealer told me that all it does is disable the backup parking sensors when trailer wiring is connected. I have a handy button to do that, so the ECU setting is deferred (probably indefinitely, unless my iLAND eventually supports it).
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I couldn't attach a PDF, so here's a link to the version of the manual that I used (and what these comments apply to). There are a few versions in TOPIx...

http://assets.noroads.com/landrover/towbar.pdf

Travis
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graham & doc1335, Thank you both!

This is brilliant and will no doubt save me countless hours (as I wasted 2 before getting here).
Looking forward to getting this up and running.

Chris
Agreed, thank you very much as I need to do this soon on my new-to-me '12. Also, we likely need pictures and a write-up about the DeLorean peeking through one of the pictures...
Folks, not to confuse things, but just to be sure...

PART # KNI500020 is essentially the same as
PART # KNI000020

A search on www.genuinelandroverparts.com for KNI000020 doesn't bring up anything (but KNI500020 does), and Google searches & Google Image searches for the same part # suggest part # KNI500020

Notice the only difference between the two #s is the "5" after KNI: KNI500020 vs KNI000020.

I'm assuming that Parts KNI500020 KNI000014 & KNI000020 are essentially ALL THE SAME accept for the previously mentioned muffler support brackets.

Thanks again for all this great information!

PS if anyone has great instructions (like above) to economical trailer hitch / tow bar WIRING & PARTS I'd be most grateful.
If I find them, I'll repost them here.

Chris
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A couple of notes and corrections:

1) As CLJ noted, the part number that I referenced is incorrect! The correct part number, and the one shown in my photos is KNI500020! Ugh... I wish it were possible to edit old posts.

2) My final photo shows the electrical module mounted to the right (with fasteners on the left). This was how the AB documentation showed it, but leaves little room to deal with a receiver lock/shaft. I ended up reversing it to mount on the left (fasteners on the right) and that is MUCH better. I saw a factory-installed hitch recently and it was mounted towards the left as well, so I assume that is the "proper" way.

Best,
Travis
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Also, we likely need pictures and a write-up about the DeLorean peeking through one of the pictures...
Ask as ye shall receive:
http://www.noroads.com/delorean/

I tore that car down to a bare frame... wish I could say it was finished!

Best,
Travis
Travis,

Thanks for the correction update and insights into how you mounted the
electrical module.
Much appreciated.

Looking forwards to getting my new-to-me 2011 RR SC loaded and ready to tow my adventures along with me.

Best,
Chris

PS wiring kits on sale for $119
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/VPLMT0008ABP

with simple install video instructions
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/range-rover-hse-trailer-wiring-kit/
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Also, sign up for their email and you will get an additional 10% off. Same place I got mine.


Travis,

Thanks for the correction update and insights into how you mounted the
electrical module.
Much appreciated.

Looking forwards to getting my new-to-me 2011 RR SC loaded and ready to tow my adventures along with me.

Best,
Chris

PS wiring kits on sale for $119
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/VPLMT0008ABP

with simple install video instructions
http://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/range-rover-hse-trailer-wiring-kit/





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Ask as ye shall receive:
http://www.noroads.com/delorean/

I tore that car down to a bare frame... wish I could say it was finished!

Best,
Travis
Wow, well done and a fun read, thanks!
Great information


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't have experience with a 2011 Rover or related hitch -- my ride is a 2004 L322. But you mentioned that, in the end, you ended up using a 2004 hitch on your 2011 ride. For what it's worth, after experimenting with three different ball mounts (tow bars), I settled on the Curt #45260 and after a year of towing am happy with it for my 5,000 lb camping trailer. I also successfully use an Eaz Lift #48380 sway control, Draw Tite #26003 adapter, and Curt #40021 long-shank ball. Make sure to change your transmission fluid and keep an eye on your tranny temperatures on uphill grades -- a problem for the BMW model, not sure about the Jaguar. Happy towing!
Tons of good info in this post, helped me with my installation. One useful discovery for the long bolts underneath, is that a 13/16" socket is actually 20.6 mm and works on these bolts. I don't normally do this but I didn't have a 21mm socket and given that its slightly smaller, not real risk in the substitution. Also, I purchased my hitch frame from someone parting out an '06 (mine is '12). The muffler brackets are identical on the '06, no changes required. At least around here, the '06 is much more available for parts than the '10-'12 years. Took me around 4 hrs. as described.
I am just bumping this thread and sending a huge thanks to tgraham. I swapped my hitch from the 06 HSE to the 12 Supercharged following these instructions.
The swap was uneventful. I did break a couple of the tabs on the bumper cover lip (impossible not to?). It is very helpful to have an impact driver and an assortment of extensions and swivels to get to the bumper nuts. Otherwise, just need to be careful with the exhaust and weight. I did it without a helper, so concrete garage and good rolling jacks came in handy.
I just did this DIY last weekend and wanted to thank all who posted previously. This has helped me. I have a 2012 and bought a used hitch from a 2004. It bolted up perfectly. And yes the hard part was to grind the tack welds off your original stuff for the muffler attachment. Everything else legoed together. Hit me up if you have ?s since I just did this.
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