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Hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I am having with my 2010 RR SC. When putting my RR under load at low RPM it appears to misfire or hesitate. Our home is located at the end of a very long and steep driveway. The hesitation or misfire occurs when we start to accurate up this drive. It seems to be worse when we are in 2nd gear at lower RPM (1200 - 1600) but is continues even after it downshifts into 1st and the RPM jumps above 2000.

I took the vehicle to my local indy shop to see if they could diagnose the issue. They said that there were no error codes to indicate a mis-fire so they speculated that it was a faulty high pressure fuel pump that that was at fault. Well after two new fuel pumps and $1500 the issue was not resolved. They haven't given up yet but it appears that they are starting to "guess" at what the issue might be. The latest is a worn center bracket on the drive shaft. They think that under load the drive shaft may be getting torqued to one side which is causing the shudder. If it was as simple as replacing the bracket I would give them the green light to repair it but they are telling me that the bracket is integrated with the drive shaft so I will need to purchase a new drive shaft! Tough pill to swallow since the repair is speculative at best.

Has anyone had an issue like this or have any suggestions on next steps. All comments and advice are welcome! Thanks!
 

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2012 L322 S/C literally just had mine looked at TODAY.

  • Idles smooth
  • Cruises smooth (70 MPH / 2K RPM)
But that magic range of 50 MPH / 1400 RPM is where I have some RPM bouncing and mild stuttering. No codes.

They mentioned cleaning MAF sensor and crankcase breather (I imagine they meant PCV valve). I’m picking up tomorrow with estimates for the work.

I’ll share tomorrow and you can pursue this if you feel comfortable or take it to a mechanic (don’t mention what my diag was, just see what yours says!) and kindly report back for all the rest of us!




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Thanks for the input! I have a similar issue with mine when cruising at 1400 RPM. They told me that it was the fuel injectors switching on and off ??. I was told that the electronics that control this function is marginal on the 2010 - 2013 RRSC's and was subsequently updated in later models when they went to the 8-speed transmission. Don't take it to the bank but that's what I was told.

Mine is still at the shop so I will give them a call today and insert the MAF sensor and crankcase breather question into my daily inquiry on how the repair is progressing. I'll let you know what their response is and keep all posted on any other updates on the issue. Please keep me posted on how your repair goes if you decide to move forward after getting the estimate.
 

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Thanks for the input! I have a similar issue with mine when cruising at 1400 RPM. They told me that it was the fuel injectors switching on and off ??. I was told that the electronics that control this function is marginal on the 2010 - 2013 RRSC's and was subsequently updated in later models when they went to the 8-speed transmission. Don't take it to the bank but that's what I was told.

Mine is still at the shop so I will give them a call today and insert the MAF sensor and crankcase breather question into my daily inquiry on how the repair is progressing. I'll let you know what their response is and keep all posted on any other updates on the issue. Please keep me posted on how your repair goes if you decide to move forward after getting the estimate.
This bucking with the absence of codes is indicative of some sort of issue indirectly related to intake / ventilation. I experienced nearly this exact issue on my Durango when I had an EGR valve issue. I was able to replace it myself with basic sockets. Instantly and completely resolved. Only diff is this issue presented jerky throttle transitions at any speed.


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Occasionally what can appear to be an engine misfire (ignition or fuel etc) is actually a mis-diagnosis for a slight transmission judder.

Have you had the transfer box oil level checked?

The behavior you report is similar to a low oil level within the transfer box (or worse, one that's ingested water through the vent pipework on the very top of the case).

Rob
 

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Sorry all. I did not receive the paperwork as expected with diagnosis and estimates when I picked up. (Did not have a chance to ask. I paid via phone and picked up after hours. I’ll obtain this week when I get the other key fob back.)


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Thanks to everyone for the additional input. They are chancing the MAF sensor and PCV valve and I will have my mechanic check the oil level in the transfer box Monday. Out of curiosity, would you expect low oil level in the transfer box to throw and error code? Thanks again!
 

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Thanks to everyone for the additional input. They are chancing the MAF sensor and PCV valve and I will have my mechanic check the oil level in the transfer box Monday. Out of curiosity, would you expect low oil level in the transfer box to throw and error code? Thanks again!
Sounds like a good direction.


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Thanks to everyone for the additional input. They are chancing the MAF sensor and PCV valve and I will have my mechanic check the oil level in the transfer box Monday. Out of curiosity, would you expect low oil level in the transfer box to throw and error code? Thanks again!
Sounds like a good direction. I think transfer case errors are along the lines of “Service 4WD system” and only when the selected mode fails to engage. You would likely not see a warning until it’s too late. Best to stay on top of fluids.


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There's no oil level sensor within the transfer case/box.

Without driving the car it's tough to know for sure whether it's an engine misfire or a transmission judder at this point so....

The oil is scavenged from the bottom of the casing by a pickup pipe feeding the internal drive's oil pump.

Although the transfer box is "out of sight, out of mind..." it's pretty easy to check the oil level.

On level ground, start the engine and raise the vehicle up to off road height. Shut the car off.

Grab a shop stand and place it under the front subframe's corner, just in case the suspension sags while you're under the car. If you leave the driver door open, the EAS is disabled.

From mid-way under the car look on the rear facing side of the transfer box and you'll see a filler plug, which is removed using an allen/hex wrench, about 1/3-1/2 way up the case.

Remove the filler plug and a little oil should weep out - have a shop towel handy.

If it doesn't, poke your pinky inside and ascertain if the oil level is merely just below the fill plug opening. If not and you need to top it off/refill use genuine Land Rover transfer case fluid (buy some beforehand - it's not cheap but it does the job very well). You'll need to buy 2 liters to do the job but you'll only end up using about 1.25L (or so) before the oil starts to seep out of the filler opening.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Rob - thanks for the detailed description on how to check/change the transfer case fluid.

Latest update on the hesitation / shudder; spoke with my mechanic and he is fairly convinced the issue is being caused by a worn center driveline bracket. They changed out the driveline and bracket yesterday and I will pick-up the RR for a test drive this am. I have been very pleased with the effort my indy shop has put towards finding and fixing this issue so I am cautiously optimistic that they have found the problem. I'll update everyone later today with the results.
 

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Rob - thanks for the detailed description on how to check/change the transfer case fluid.

Latest update on the hesitation / shudder; spoke with my mechanic and he is fairly convinced the issue is being caused by a worn center driveline bracket. They changed out the driveline and bracket yesterday and I will pick-up the RR for a test drive this am. I have been very pleased with the effort my indy shop has put towards finding and fixing this issue so I am cautiously optimistic that they have found the problem. I'll update everyone later today with the results.
I’m not trying to second guess your mechanic. Are you satisfied with their efforts or are you satisfied with their results? Have they been good at addressing issues the first attempt?


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