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I installed the wire harness kit to my factory installed hitch. That part was quite simple and easy (for the 2010 and newer). From the beginning, I have blown the charging fuse (position 8 from the left in the rear fuse panel). I have learned to live without it, as everything else works fine with braking and lights (except that the RR wont recognize a trailer for trailer tow mode, another issue for another day).

Anyhow, I am getting ready for a long trip and finally am digging into the problem. On the new harness, and with normal trailer wiring convention, black should be power, and white should be ground. I checked continuity in the new harness and all was fine. 0.3 ohms of resistance each. But the odd thing was, when i test the circuit from the fuse panel (after removing fuse), to the trailer harness socket (where the new 7 pin harness plugs in by spare tire), the fuse gave continuity at the GROUND wire, and not the hot/charge positive wire... WTF? Arent all of the positives supposed to be fused? the huge positive cable going into the rear panel is right in line with the positive bus/fuse bar. I also got continuity from this negative (2nd terminal from bottom of new plug) to chassis ground.. so clearly, if the circuit is fused at positive, something is majorly wrong with the factory harness.

the 15 amp fuse blows instantly the second the 7 pin plug is connected. even 20 and 25 amp (to test). I think my only realistic option is to bypass the factory charge circuit and run my own from the positive post and add a fuse. I did check and verify all connections on the trailer (which is new, and I ran new ground wire direct to negative bus bar myself in trailer to verify, as well as new positive to a new DC/DC converter).

Has anyone ran into this problem? Am I completely missing something?
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Was this connection done here in USA? It is possible that though the factory used black for power, it is possible that the trailer people used black for ground. Try this: determine the color of the wire going to the trailer battery +. Trace it to the connector. You might try disconnecting the trailer connector, and using a test light connected to the trailer ground, look for 12 volts from the trailer battery. The charge connector should go to the trailer battery +. If it does not, the connector is miswired, and this info may ease the repair. Ray
 
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