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Anybody know how amd have steps to change front blower motor in a 2010 RR full size, I can't find much for this year on the net.
 

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I believe it’s a full dash removal procedure.
 

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Anybody know how amd have steps to change front blower motor in a 2010 RR full size, I can't find much for this year on the net.
As previously mentioned, it's a full dash removal, including displacing the dash stiffener (the large metal tube frame support).

You'll need to remove the driver's seat to gain access to the center console harness plug(s) underneath the carpet cutout.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove the gear shift lever knob (place lever in neutral position and, with button pressed, pull sharply upwards) and then undo 2x10mm bolts at lower rear (behind small grills) on center console. There are two torx screws at the lower from edge of the console (behind the vertical wood trims) and two torx screws behind a small removable trim panel at the bottom of the center dash switch panel. Place the screws in a small ziploc bag and write where they go on the outside with marker pen. If your brain's already aching stop here.

Remove the steering wheel (I mean this in a kind sense- if you need to ask how to remove the airbag this isn't a job you need to think any further about doing yourself). There are multiple shop practices which you'll need to rely on during this removal and install in order to be satisfied with the result - including no annoying post-work dash rattles. You might want to look at the earlier RAVE manuals to gain a realistic sense of the work needed.

Continue removing the lower trim panels, glove boxes and upper dash fittings, labelling the screws etc to ease the install process.

By the end of the removal you will literally be looking at an HVAC unit and about 40-50 disconnected wiring connectors and some firewall insulation. THEN you can remove the six torx screws which retain the motor housing.

Now put it all back together - perfectly :)

If you're brave and think you're mostly aware of such practices it'll likely take you a full weekend's worth of time to complete the job. If you have to keep coming back and asking for help with each subsequent step, pay somebody who knows what they're doing to do the work to begin with.

Only you know your capability so it's up to you.

Take plenty of pictures during the removal as there are multiple screw sizes and it's critical for each to be re-installed correctly to prevent future dash rattling.

An LR shop will charge around $3000 labor for this work (which gives you some idea of how big a job this is).

An independant shop will probably be around 50% of that cost.

Good luck,

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wtf i loved my RR until now. $3000 for a **** $300 part and a **** wearable part too they made so you can't gain access. I need to try am2d find out if there is any way to test the voltage going to the motor first6, maybe a messed up module and not the motor, any ideas where I wou3l be able to check voltage? I have a wiring schematic but really doesn't say where this stuff is.
 

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If it makes you feel any better I once bought a Corvette with a bypassed heater core (cheap at the time or so I thought).

By the time I’d replaced the $20 core I had around twelve hours of my own labor invested.

Just count yourself lucky that you don’t own a Bentley Arnage with a noisy blower motor. That takes twice as much coin to replace;)

Good luck,

Rob
 

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Not trying to be a Richard Cranium here but I’ve replaced three of these blower motors in the last 18 months.

Much as I wish it wasn’t so, the blower motor cannot be replaced from under the hood (at least not without a plasma cutter).

The entire dash has to come out. That’s the easy part.

Putting it all back together with every single harness clip, electrical connector and screw returned to its correct spot is why it's an expensive repair.

My advice is to pay someone who knows exactly what they are doing to correctly diagnose your problem first, then determine what's needed to repair the diagnosed fault, given the magnitude of the blower motor replacement and your apparent uncertainty (right now) as to the exact HVAC system fault(s) you are experiencing.

It's one thing to [take a somewhat educated] guess on a $50-100 repair. It's not so wise to do so when a potential $3000 repair investment is in play.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Idk my manual says to remove heater and evaporator core and its right there. Ill look at it but ill get ot in shop to diagnose it and hope they can
 

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Thats because you have to work backwards thru the manual. The heater and evaporator core unit is the huge block of ductwork that occupies the entire space forward and under the front edge of the console, all the way to the firewall. It has the blower motor in it, the blower motor control module (also called the ATC of final stage resistor module), all the ductwork dampers and their stepper motors. Basically everything to make the air hot or cold. In order to remove that to get to the motor you have to remove the in vehicle cross beam, inorder to remove that you have to remove the plenum chamber (the box around the battery and power brake booster, bleed the A/C system down, pinch off an dsconnect the heater hoses at the firewall, unbolt the evaporator and heater core from the firewall side, remove the steering column, remove the wiper motor, a ton of wiring harness connectors and clips, the center console, the IPC all the distribution vents, HVAC controller, shifter interlock cable, radio, fuse panel, etc etc and of course each of these items have numerous steps to accomplish. It is a ton of work. Make **** sure its the blower motor before you even think about doing this job.
 

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If you don’t have time/skills to do it “correctly”... or the money to pay a shop... but you do have the stomach to “hack” it out of there with a saw from above, check out this post.

I honestly feel like there is less chance for dash rattles, cracked/scratched trim panels by simply removing the dash pad and cutting an access hole. It certainly feels like a hillbilly approach, but it appears to work.
 

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Mark C,

Nicely stated.

For those wondering why the wiper motor and associated linkage has to be removed, the reason is because the two dash frame support bolts attaching the steering column support to the firewall are “hidden” directly behind it.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ahhh sp where the FSR goes in is the blower control module? If that's the case i can get to that and check voltages. Anybody know for sure where the blower control module and the climate control module are? I know what wires i need to check just don't know where the modules are
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well **** I think it is blower motor. I checked wires at the fSr connector and I get good ground at brown wire, 12v battery from Vbatt the yellow green, voltage varying with dial selection at the brown green wire color. Not sure what +Vmot is but no voltage there. The resistor gets hot when I have it turned on
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I see battery power, ground and the C2281-3 that goes into the fsr and it does change voltage with knob. How can I tell if I am getting voltage from the fSr to the motor? I assume if it heats up its getting power to blower?
 

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If you remove the HVAC switch panel in the center of the lower dash (leaving its electric connectors in place) and pull it gently forward (you may have to dislodge a wiring harness clip or two in that process) you'll see a twin connector plug with a thick yellow/green wire and (I think) brown (may be black) clipped to the center of the HVAC box, facing the back of that switch panel.

That's the connector to the blower motor. You can dislodge its mounting by twisting it counterclockwise about 30 degrees and withdraw it from its mount if you need better access to it if necessary. Reverse that to re-install it once your test is complete to avoid a rattle behind the dash.

Unplug that connector you can test for voltage there without scrambling around, upside down in the right front footwell.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I started the blower replacement and **** you weren't kidding. I got top dash off and I see no way to do the alternate method so I started taking the rest off. Glove bos, top dash, radio, I guess I need to get hvac control out which means removing floor console and then remove dash reinf0rcement. Sound right so far?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry for all the questions but everything I found online is for the older L322, mine is a 2010 ad top looks different. I see 1 possible way of cutting so I'll post pic and see what you think
 
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