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Discussion Starter #1
After perusing the forums for info on how to install these tail lights, I found it very frustrating. A LOT of information scattered about with MANY dead ends and incomplete responses. I thought I'd take a stab at some clarity.

So for sourcing the 2010+ Tail lights, if you live in the U.S. the best place by far is: http://www.landrovermerriamparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215719

At this website enter your vehicle as a 2010, NOT a 2011 or 2012!! These tail lights are $249ea. BEST I found by far!!! If your Canadian, don't bother, they won't ship to Canada and your Canadian credit card won't be processed by their crappy online system.... but they do take Paypal!! If you try to order them over the phone they will give you varied prices depending on the day for they simply grab a VIN off a 2012 RR they have on the lot, so ONLY USE THE WEBSITE!

If you don't live in the U.S., I'd say Ebay or Salvage Yards is going to be your best bet. I purchased 2 used 2010 Tail lights, one for $250US the other $350US via Ebay but I had to use Mail Forwarding (ReShip) because a lot of Ebay users won't ship outside of the U.S. ReShip charges $5... but I had to pay Fedex $55 to ship it from Portland (ReShip warehouse) to Canada, and then pay them $27 for GST and Duty.

Once you receive your tail lights, you need to remove your old ones.

http://youtu.be/NCAJA9iG8nc?hd=1

Now here's where you need to grab a beer for courage!! I tried to "modify" the existing tail light brackets so that I could put the old ones back on if needed.... this WON'T be possible if you want the tail lights to sit flush and NOT have a 0.5" gap. So you'll need to take a grinder with a cutting blade or a screwdriver and pry off the existing brackets where the old tail lights would clip into.


tail light price.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The above picture will leave you a 0.5" gap if you try to facilitate the option of putting the old tail lights back on. So once you've decided that your 2010 LED tail lights are what you're sticking with.... cut off the remaining tabs as well as the plastic tab on the back of the 2010 tail light.
 

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Now take notice off the differences between the OLD tail light and the NEW tail light. You'll need to put the 2010 Tail light in place and decide where you think the drilled holes should be placed. I screwed this up and felt like my tail lights were too low and protruding outward too much the first time... so aim for them to sit high and flush!! Then take the leap and drill out your holes. The size of the holes depends on what you're using to fix the 2010 Tail light tabs into place. Apparently many guys are using a grommet of some sort, I used a simple drywall anchor, with a 9/32" drill bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After playing around with my drilled hole, widening it a little and moving it upward slightly, I found a position where the light sat perfectly. I cut off most of the drywall anchor, and placed the anchor in the final drilled location I thought the light fit most flushed. (pic of this at the end)

Now you'll need to give some attention to some wiring. There are a few kits being offered, some by forum members, PowerfulUK as well as Ebay.

1.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/34671-group-buy-solution-2010-led-rear-lights.html

2.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/33719-2010-11-my-conversion-so-begins-8.html

3.
http://www.powerfuluk.com/products/range-rover-l322-vogue-03-lamps-and-light-upgrades/rwk855-early-range-rover-l322-2010-rear-light-blinking-fog-light-fix.html

After you've decided which path you've decided to take the DIY divides here. If you chose one of the kits, then follow the links to learn how they are installed.

My suggestion would be to use Option 3 from PowerfulUK as it's only 29 pounds(can't figure out how to make the symbol for pounds as a dollar sign)!!

However, if the Fog light option isn't crucial; which to me I felt it wasn't worth waiting for a shipment from the UK, I decided to tackle the wiring on my own and ignore the fog light issue.

You'll need 4 resistors in total - I used 2 of the 50W 6ohm and 2 of the 25W 15ohm. (you could use ALL 4 of any type and it will still work, I felt like the 50W would have better heat dispersion if this became an issue)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Below is a picture of the tail light wiring and the connector.

Right side(passenger)

Pin 1. Blue/brown(turn signal)
Pin 2. black/blue(brake)
Pin 3. Yellow/black(fog)
Pin 4. Grey/white(tail light)
Pin 5. Brown(ground)

Left side (Drivers-US/CAN)
Pin 1. green/blue(turn signal)
Pin 2. blue/black(brake)
Pin 3. yellow/black(fog)
Pin 4. Purple/pink(tail light)
Pin 5. Brown (ground)

What you need to do is CUT the fog light wires on both sides (yellow/black - pin 3) **NOTE: now the Fog lights won't be functional. On the cut half off the wires coming from the vehicle attach one side of your resistor (50W 6ohm) and to the other side of the resistor (direction doesn't matter on resistors) attach a wire that is spliced to the ground wire (Brown - pin 5). This fixes your Tail Light Error indicator that would appear!!

Then attach a resistor in the same fashion (use the 25W15ohm) however DO NOT cut the turn signal, simply splice a wire from one end of the resistor to the turn signal wire (Pin 1 - Green/blue (Drivers side) or blue/brown (passenger side) and the other end of the resistor to the ground wire (brown - pin 5). The picture above should show you essentially what you're doing with the resistor... this fixes the fast flashing of the LED turn signal.

If you CAN!!! Try to solder your connections and then use heat shrink tubing to seal them, these NEED to be water tight if you're the adventurous type. I just used electrical tape to do a quick mock up to ensure everything was working initially, then went and soldered and heat shrunk the connections. DON'T tape your resistors, but maybe add enough wire so that they are away from any plastic (the tail light and bumper). The proper way would be to screw them to metal... but as you'll learn, if you wire your tail lights this way... there is NO HEAT created from the resistors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Now if you want to try to get past the Fog light issue you can try a Relay. I didn't because I didn't think it would work correctly. But my good buddy Boo suggests this is the way you wire it up.

"(basically: the fog light line is cut, the end attached to the car is connected to both 86 and 30, the end attached to the actual fog light is connected to 87, and 85 is grounded)"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A few notes on other postings.

1. At least one member kept the tail light board in tact (however hidden) and simply spliced off the existing factory tail light harness and achieved good results with no errors. The problem I see with this, is why would you want that large chunky black tail light board with bulbs connected floating anywhere on your vehicle.

2.Some guys are putting resistors across the turn signals, tail lights, and fog lights... not sure why they would be doing this. If you do this, you're going to get HUGE HUGE amounts of heat across your resistor, to the point that they will definately melt your tail light or bumper if not fixed somewhere appropriate. Also, the Fog light issue won't be fixed, your fog lights will just always be on. If you watch the video below, this guy did just that. Now the lights are very bright and and the fog lights are erroneously signaled on... note how the fog light indicator on the dash is not illuminated, so clearly this is a "different" way to do it.

http://youtu.be/zxjSDEkmGTo?hd=1

3. Finally, I read Boo's request to convert 12v to 6v. I thought to myself why is he doing this? A tonne of diagrams and effort was put into his posting but I could never quite figure out why! Until... I realized he likely confused the 6V with 6W. The back of the 2010 tail lights has the power consumption for each of the pin outs (1-5).. they all say 13.5V at 6.5W( except turn signals are 11.5W)... I think Boo thought it was necessary to convert 12V to 6V in order to get the correct power sourcing, when in fact the existing tail lights 2003-2009 all require 5W for the tail lights. So if the NEW led tail lights require 6.5W and the old ones use 5W, I suggest there is NO need to put a resistor across the tail light wire (pin4)... THUS you won't have any heat issues, and your tail lights will work perfectly and not have any premature failure issues. Hopefully Boo will chime in here so we can get his thoughts.

Here's a pic, you may have to zoom it in, but the back the 2010 tail light clearly shows the power usage and the RAVE clearly indicates the 2003-2009 as using 5W for the tail light and 21W for the fog light. So the dual filament bulb has a P21/5W bulb and the tail light is a 5W bulb.

photo(1).jpg photo(2).jpg photo(3).jpg photo(8).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My fitment is perfect.. I'm really happy with it. I may eventually tackle the Fog light issue, but I'm hoping someone else tries the relay method first!!! There are no errors, turn signal is appropriate, no heat issues from resistors, and I think it's a pretty easy good solution for those who aren't going to struggle without rear Fogs.

Hope this helps.
 

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First of all -awesome work documenting everything, this would be a great thread to sticky for the future! Also, your setup looks great and I had to go through all the same things you did to make them physically fit back there. Much easier task than it looks, promise!


My side-notes:

The pre-2010 tail lights already use LEDs for the brake lights (pin/line 2) and therefore you don't need a resistor for these -the computer already knows how to deal with the low-power LEDs. Just clarifying for others!

However, the side marker lights (pin/line 4) are incandescent bulbs in the pre-2010 tail lights and now they are LEDs. They still run at 13.5V, that part does not change, but they use less power than the original bulbs and therefore will require a resistor to 'fool' the computer into thinking that the same original bulb is there drawing the original amount of power. Again, just clarifying for others!

Lastly, as for the 6V or 6W issue, I really did mean 6V. I'm feeding my side marker lights (pin/line 4) 6V instead of 12V. I did this by adding a voltage regulator immediately before the line enters the tail light. By giving it 6V instead of 12V (while amperage doesn't change), the side marker lights are MUCH less bright and are actually tolerable at night. Try driving behind your Range at night without this 12V to 6V mod and you will absolutely hate it.

You can drop the voltage from 12V to 6V on the brake light (pin/line 3) as well, but I like to keep that one nice and bright for safety reasons -despite how obnoxiously bright it is while I'm sitting at a stop light at night.



Again, excellent write-up.


Newbies I guarantee this thread will answer 99.9% of your questions about the 2010+ tail light upgrade. Get readin and good luck! Post up in here if you still somehow have questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lastly, as for the 6V or 6W issue, I really did mean 6V. I'm feeding my side marker lights (pin/line 4) 6V instead of 12V. I did this by adding a voltage regulator immediately before the line enters the tail light. By giving it 6V instead of 12V (while amperage doesn't change), the side marker lights are MUCH less bright and are actually tolerable at night. Try driving behind your Range at night without this 12V to 6V mod and you will absolutely hate it.
Ahhh.. gotcha.. very true. I haven't been behind my own vehicle and compared to others, so I really have no idea how bright that signal light is going to be.

I did take a night picture of my signal light.. Boo, any chance you can toss a night shot of your signal light up so people can take note of the difference!

Boo, did you by chance use your relay trick?
 

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I bought a plug n play system for a lot more than I ever should have paid for it. The relay diagram is somewhere on this forum and I'm sure it works, it's just more time and effort...

I'll snag a night shot sometime to show you what I mean, but next time you turn your car on at night before you drive it, go stand about 20 feet behind it and you'll know right away what I'm talking about. There used to be a picture somewhere on these forums showing it...


EDIT: here's the picture running 5V or 6V at the side marker line (line 4). Not my car but you get the idea.

Remember, these are just driving lights, these aren't brake lights! Also, they are LEDs and are directional, meaning that they are EXTREMELY bright when you are directly facing them like drivers behind you do. They aren't so bad when you look at them from the side of your car, but step behind it and you'll understand.

http://www.wiseman38.plus.com/L322/P1010099.JPG


EDIT2: here's mine
 

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Discussion Starter #12
photo(20).jpg

RR, 97 Ford, 07 Chrysler --> It's not overbearing, it's a little bolder than the Chrysler, but I'll bet if I had an 2012 Panamera or Escalade to compare it to, the RR tails wouldn't look as bold. :0( I hate being poor.
 

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It's all a matter of personal preference! I look at those and think they are a bit too bright for driving lights at night, but yeaa it's really not a big issue at all.

Again great write up and glad you've got things working properly :thumb: Nice car my friend
 

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So you're the one competing with my for sale ad `). Looks like you spent more on your vehicle than mine.
 

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I don't understand. What did you accomplish by cutting all the wires and such?
Mine worked fine, plug and play. Except for the foglight issue. No bulb warning, no fast blinking, just disco lights on start up and the half on foglight.
Mind you, mine is from a 2012 Autobiograhy (black inserts)
 

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So you're the one competing with my for sale ad `). Looks like you spent more on your vehicle than mine.
I'm not competing with anyone...? And maybe so, but you're also the one with the Bentley :shhh: haha


I don't understand. What did you accomplish by cutting all the wires and such?
Mine worked fine, plug and play. Except for the foglight issue. No bulb warning, no fast blinking, just disco lights on start up and the half on foglight.
Mind you, mine is from a 2012 Autobiograhy (black inserts)
And I have no idea how that would work, did you buy chance have someone else install them? The fogs/disco lights might not be an issue, but the turn signal should definitely be 'hyper-flashing'. Regardless what matters is that they work and you're happy with them! :thumb: Pictures of your ride(s)?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't understand. What did you accomplish by cutting all the wires and such?
Mine worked fine, plug and play. Except for the foglight issue. No bulb warning, no fast blinking, just disco lights on start up and the half on foglight.
Mind you, mine is from a 2012 Autobiograhy (black inserts)
I had bulb out errors without the fog resistor in place pop up on the dash, and I just figured the signals would flash rapidly since they were LED(I didn't even check).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm not competing with anyone...? And maybe so, but you're also the one with the Bentley :shhh: haha
Boo, he's talking to me about the "ad competition". We BOTH have our RR for Sale in our community and are similarly priced :0) My ad just has a tonne of videos and CAPS LOCK!! Little does he know... I just ordered the NEW and FANTASTIC 3m 1080 SATIN BLACK (not matte black) vinyl wrap, cuz no one but grandma wants a brown vehicle. Can I get an amen?

His ad:

http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-FIRE-SALE-2005-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-HSE-SUV-W0QQAdIdZ409351379

My ad:

http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2003-Range-Rover-VERY-LOW-kms-Reverse-Camera-BT-W0QQAdIdZ409390666
 

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Discussion Starter #19
And maybe so, but you're also the one with the Bentley :shhh: haha

:thumb: Pictures of your ride(s)?
I agree.. I want to see the Bentley. There's not very many in Calgary! Plus, I think the Hyundai Sonata in your garage (physical garage) would have to be moved to make room for it :shock:
 

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Yeah, I own two Hyundai Sonatas LOL. 3 cars to 1 single car garage.
The Bentley belongs to my grand father and we share it from time to time (actually, I just take it from him when I'm in town (car is in Vancouver and I'm in Calgary).
Just waiting until my businesses pick up so that I can buy it off of him even though he offered it to me for free, I don't like to take things for granted. I'll appreciate the car more if I pay for it with my hard earned money (note: I work about 16-18 hours a day).
 
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