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Discussion Starter #1
Good day, folks

I'll try to keep it short and simple. Bought a 2010 L322 w/ 90k on the clock. 5.0L V8 NA HSE US model. Ends up needing a new engine.

New engine installed. Everything is going great so far. BUT...Every single morning after sitting over night, it runs rough for about 2-3 minutes, "Limited Performance" message appears w/ CEL flashing. Then it magically gets better after said 2-3 minutes and runs like a dream. Pulls extremely hard and just drives perfect.

Check engine light codes are the following: P0366(Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance(Bank 1)), as well as misfire codes for cylinders 8, 6, 5 and 4.

One other odd item, the expansion tank for the coolant. Once at operating temp, it will lower itself about 3-4 fingers beneath the cold fill line. On a then cooled down engine, I open expansion tank to refill, but as I release pressure from the system by removing cap, the level goes back up to the cold fill line or just about 1 finger above it. Is this normal for these trucks? I'm from the P38 world and the level stays the same regardless of temp.

So, aside from these issues, the engine runs flawlessly. With the particular situation I'm in, this engine is guaranteed. So if need be I can refuse engine and go through the process of sourcing another, swapping it and starting from scratch again. I do NOT want to do this. How serious is this problem? What options do I have as far as home repair? Can I just try some Autozone fuel system cleaning Snake Oil? Seafoam?

This truck is not going to be a long distance runner, neither will it do ANY serious off-roading. It will be a small, Texas town, to and from daily work truck to the law office and back home. Occasional 300 mile round trip to the ranch. Grocery getter.


What can I try myself for these issues? I appreciate all of your alls time and input towards helping me out with this truck. The forum has been nothing short of great for me and my P38. Thank you very much.

Best,
Carlos
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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After the vehicle has been sitting overnight, ahead of the issue you're having a problem with, does the outside air temperature on the dash read correctly (or at least within a degree or two of the actual OAT)?

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After the vehicle has been sitting overnight, ahead of the issue you're having a problem with, does the outside air temperature on the dash read correctly (or at least within a degree or two of the actual OAT)?

Rob
It reads outside temp correctly. Been in the 30's-40's previous 3 nights/mornings.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Did you do the engine swap or someone else? If it was a used replacement motor, what mileage was on the "new" engine when pulled and installed in your vehicle?

Next thing to check would be the rear temp sensor connector plug on the rear right side of the plastic water channel which "links" coolant between the rear of the cylinder heads.

Then check that the four multiplug connectors (2 on each side) of each front cover directly in front of the VVT's, as well as each ground connector under the 8mm bolt on the same cover(s), are on tight.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you do the engine swap or someone else? If it was a used replacement motor, what mileage was on the "new" engine when pulled and installed in your vehicle?

Next thing to check would be the rear temp sensor connector plug on the rear right side of the plastic water channel which "links" coolant between the rear of the cylinder heads.

Then check that the four multiplug connectors (2 on each side) of each front cover directly in front of the VVT's, as well as each ground connector under the 8mm bolt on the same cover(s), are on tight.

Rob
I did not do the swap myself. The motor had around 30-40k miles on it. I'm completely new to the engine bay of this gen Rover, so forgive my arrogance, but where exactly are all these things I need to check? Looking at my P38 every other day and barely looking at this one for 4 days has me feeling a bit intimidated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd like to update the thread

Went to start truck, cold start, and it's a rough ass idle. Limited Performance. I decide to kill it and take my G. As I exit Rover, there is a cloud of smoke about the size of my truck, hazy white and smelled real sweet. I believe it is a headgasket issue. Leaking into the cylinders possibly causing my misfires? Anywho...Strongly considering Blue Devil, K-Seal or something of the like..as a sort of last ditch effort to salvage THIS engine.

Don't all attack me at once but on Youtube Samcrac actually repairs an auction Rover w/ severely busted headgasket w/ some over the counter medicine.

Simply put, to save time, headache, and contact w/ the person who sold us this truck, I would not mind going this route. If it doesn't work then so be it...but what are your thoughts?

To put into perspective how tired I am of dealing with the seller and the mechanics...I've had the truck about 2 and a half years and maybe only driven it a total of about 2 weeks TOPS.
 

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Do you know how to correctly perform a coolant system pressure test?

Do that first and allow AT LEAST two hours, with a COLD engine, for the pressure to either be maintained or reduce (ie leak someplace from within the cooling system).

If the cooling system pressure reduces rapidly, you'll need to find the cause, which may either be obvious at that point or something more subtle leaking.

The next step to check for a potential head gasket leak would be to remove the spark plugs and perform a cylinder leak down test (you may already know that you'll need access to a compressor to perform this test).

Please report back with you results.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay I'm going to do the pressure test today. What bar or psi should I get it to before I stop?
 
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