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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I am really hoping I can get some help here. I purchased a 2010 L322 a few months ago (85,000 miles). The vehicle has been running and shifting smooth up until recently. After about 45 minutes to 1 hour of drive time & only under load going uphill on the freeway I will get a gear box fault and the vehicle will go into neutral/limp mode. Pretty scary stuff while on the freeway in traffic! It will go back to normal after restart but will trigger limp mode again once I hit 5th or 6th under load uphill trying to make it home. The interesting thing about my issue vs other threads I have read addressing similar problems is that (my impression) the E clutch controls 4th gear as well. 4th gear has never given me any problems yet I have an E clutch fault. Shouldn't the problem be happening in 4th as well then? I have tested to see if switching over to command mode will fix the problem but same fault/limp mode in 5th & 6th gears only uphill on the freeway and under load. Land Rover ran the codes and came back with Code P2702-07 Mechanical Failure, E Clutch Internally Failed. They suggested a new transmission, which seemed pretty extreme to me since it is running so well in other gears and even 5th & 6th before I start hitting load at around an hour of drive time. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Also, I crawled under there the other weekend and serviced the transmission to see if this would solve the issue. Still had the problem. Installed a new filter, pan, and official ZF 6hp oil. Kit and all parts ordered from Atlantic British. (Drained the oil twice to try to flush as best as possible.) The original magnets had some sludge on them but not too bad. No metal filings were detected from what I could see in the old oil. This was the first time the transmission was serviced.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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I agree that it’s strange that, if it is an E-clutch fault, you aren’t having problems with 4[SUP]th[/SUP] gear. I wonder if the simplest way to confirm this is to temporarily remove the Mechatronic unit and test the E-clutch circuit with air pressure to see if it’s leaking?



Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Phil,

Thank you for the prompt response and illustration. If the E-clutch circuit is leaking, how would one go about fixing this issue? All of my local transmission shops/specialists are either too scared to work on the transmission or refuse to unless it is a big rebuild. They all ref me back to the dealer so it is looking like I might have to do this one myself. Also, to provide you with more info. I can give 4th as much throttle as I want to with no problems (While in 4th & command shift I can take it to any rpm, over any hill, & at any speed any time.) I have now noticed that right before the vehicle goes into limp mode in 5th the rpms will hold firm but then start to throttle seek up and down very slightly and then go into limp mode with the gear box fault. I have learned to bypass a gearbox fault by quickly shifting back down to 4th right as this is happening and the car will make it all the way to the top of the hill with no faults. Once over the hill I can put the vehicle into D and it will operate fine in 5 & 6th the rest of the way home. The throttle seeking seems to start happening about half way up the steep freeway hill. (About 30 miles into the freeway mountain pass.) Unfortunately it is part of my daily commute with no other routes around it so I am stuck driving it.

Thanks for your help & input
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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The 6HP26/8 is very easy to work on, and the E-clutch is the first thing to come out, once the bellhousing is removed. You could definitely do this yourself.

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/44034-zf-6hp26-teardown.html

The hardest part of the job is getting the transmission out of the vehicle and then back in again afterwards. Rebuilding the transmission is the easy bit.

Early 6HP26s used to have E-clutch issues due to wear in the rear stator bush, which also acts as a seal in the E-clutch hydraulic circuit:





ZF later changed the material from which the bush was made and the problem was supposedly sorted. I’d be surprised if a 2010 model still had the lead-free bushes fitted, so this may not be the issue in your case. Having said that, all you have to go on is the error code which identifies the E-clutch as the culprit.

If you fancy having a go yourself, you can usually find the official ZF repair manual on-line and download it for free. Let me know if you’re struggling and I can send it to you.





You don’t say where you’re from and which model you have. Is your 2010 a 3.6 TDV8 diesel or a 5.0 V8 petrol?

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, thank you for the detailed information Phil. That is a relief the transmission itself will be easy to work on if it is an e-clutch problem. To answer your question I live in Park City, Utah, USA. (Very high altitude in the mountains.) Engine is the 5.0 Petrol. The engine & everything else is running fantastic so no issues out side this e-clutch. It is riding on the factory 20" rims and Scorpion tires. No mods. Vehicle was always serviced at Land Rover. I did go back into the papers and noticed the original owner (I am the second) experienced a "drastic chug" while on the freeway at 73,000 miles. No codes pulled & no other experience like this was noted within the papers. I will look into all this and keep you and possible future readers posted on what unfolds as I tear apart the trans. I will also make sure to post what solves the issue.
 
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