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Discussion Starter #1
Our RR has this attachment in the rear. I was wondering if I could get advise on what I need to get on top of this to pull a trailer, outside of a receiver. Do I need any other kits or accessories to be installed?

Thanks.

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Discussion Starter #5
Will a LR2 hitch work as well? I was talking to a dealer who has this and claims it is compatible with our 2009 RR Sport HSE.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Look for a plug...
No plug visible in the exterior attachment area. I have read some threads here indicating that there is a plug inside the trunk on the passenger side but never confirmed. The panels are all pretty concealing there so I want to have an idea where to dig before ripping panels apart.
 

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Definitely remove that hitch cover and see if you see a plug there. Should be a 4 pin plug. If not, you'll have to buy the wiring and have it installed.

I've never heard of an LR2 trailer hitch working on the sport so unless LR has a universal design. Post a pic if you can, and the price (check Ebay) - 2 important things to check there...tongue weight and that it actually does have the same bar that pops out to secure it into the frame. Used hitches can run about USD $300, new about $350-$400. Occasionally someone here sells one as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Definitely remove that hitch cover and see if you see a plug there. Should be a 4 pin plug. If not, you'll have to buy the wiring and have it installed.

I've never heard of an LR2 trailer hitch working on the sport so unless LR has a universal design. Post a pic if you can, and the price (check Ebay) - 2 important things to check there...tongue weight and that it actually does have the same bar that pops out to secure it into the frame. Used hitches can run about USD $300, new about $350-$400. Occasionally someone here sells one as well...
This is what they are selling:

TPSPORT.jpg

It is listed as a LR2 hidden hitch and tow bar and the shop selling it confirmed that it is compatible with the 09 Sport. They perform the installation as well (incl. electrical it appears). The kit is used but if they are installing it I imagine that they can make sure everything is compatible and present.

My gf has the RR at work... I will have a look... but the mating adapter where the hitch would go does not have a cover. What cover are you referring to that I should remove?

Thanks.
 

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In your first picture...you see the plastic cover that wraps around the bumper...remove that by rotating the 2 tabs on the bottom. You will expose an area where the recovery loop is, next to that, on the LHS should be (if it's wired already) the 4 pin plug. If it's not there, and not stuffed into the rear of the bumper or behind the side panels, then you will have to buy the wiring harness.

The trailer hitch in that picture is NOT the correct one to use for an RRS...unless they have recently invented a 3rd design that I am not aware of. Hard to tell from the pics what the specs are for tongue weight and LR will significantly overcharge you for the trailer ball and bar here compared to buying it at HomeDepot or Lowe's.

Do a price compare on Ebay for the trailer hitch, call Atlantic British for a price compare on the wiring harness. Labor to install the wiring should be about 1 hour, but you could easily do it yourself...hardest part is getting the square plug thru the hole next to the recovery loop.
 

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The hitch receiver (top left in the picture) looks like the Atlantic British variant. The kit is "used"? My recommendation is to use the OEM hitch receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will check out the rear bumper in a couple of days.
Interesting that the kit pictured above is not compatible but the shop says it is. I will follow through and see what they do. The price is great.

There is another seller selling the LRNASE5664 kit. Is there somewhere that I can check compatibility with my RR?
 

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Speed...just a little advice: You want to buy a proper quality trailerhitch device - if for some reason the trailer hitch fails or doesn't have enough tongue weight support, you're going to be dealing with a mess if that trailer breaks loose and your contents go flying on the highway and hit someone. Don't go cheap on this setup...get the right stuff and have the confidence that you're not creating a hazard for yourself or others on the highway. Saving a few bucks here on the aftermarket trailer hitch in my view is not wise....
 

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I can now see that trailer hitch receiver on Atlantic British's site. It does have a lower capacity than the OEM one. Your call...but considering it's held on but a couple of bolts vs. snapping in, I would still stick with trying to find an original hitch receiver. A couple hundred bucks difference to have peace of mind vs. a trailer dumping on the highway and causing significantly more damage than $200-$300 would be my preference. I do tow a motorcycle trailer and have towed heavy horse trailer fully loaded as well, and I wouldn't opt for the cheaper option in this case. YMMV.
 

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Speedmn - why go for a LR2 system which may or may not work and may or may not have the required ratings - are higher on a RRS.

Buy a RRS (update)/Discovery 4 (LR4) tow bar - it does not hang down as far as the "plow" used on early RRS/D3/LR3.

Garry
 

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Having been through this already I would caution using the OEM hitch receiver. lots of reports of failures on the net. It is a very poorly engineered piece and LR should do recall to fix the issue. I have the Atlantic British hitch which is secured by three bolts.. The original is held in by a single pin and causes all of the tongue weight to be loaded on a 3/8" section of cast iron. This is the source of many failures I'm sure. On mine it was already broken negating the use of the OEM hitch.

The dealer solution was replacement of the whole rear bumper at $2700. I think the Atlantic British piece is stronger, safer and better engineered.

Towed a 5000 lb trailer 1600 km to Montreal last summer with no problems.

Usual disclaimers apply.

Andrew
 

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We've actually been down this road before. When you read through "reports of failures" on the internet you will quickly notice the issue is not with the receiver itself. The issue is usually with improper locking of the tow receiver or people overloading it. Many of the initial investigations actually found grossly exceeded tongue weights. Land Rover actually redesigned the locking mechanism in response to the number of folks not properly using the old system.
 

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Realizing that I am a complete noob here and I fully expect the issue has been discussed "ad nauseum".. I'm reflecting on my own vehicle and the failure of the receiver. Having some engineering background it's easy to see that an excessive tongue load is going to cause a failure at exactly the place that my hitch has broken. The poor design is in not having sufficient safety margin and trusting to a brittle material that will likely fail under shock loading. Consequences of losing a trailer are potentially dire. The alternative part is mild steel (less brittle) and can be secured with grade 10 hardware in tension not shear..

Respectfully.

Andrew
 

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Just be careful where you buy the hitch - that Atlantic British hitch is only rated to 5000lbs tow and 500lbs - our OEM LR hitches here in Australia are rated 3500kg (7700lbs) tow and 350kg (770lbs) tongue weight and while there have been a couple of incidents, they are related to user issues . There is no systemic failure issues.

My vehicle has a different hitch again - a local Mitchell Bros Hitch - rated at 7700lbs tow and 770lbs tongue weight.

IMG_0088.jpg
 

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This is all very interesting as I have been through this same thought process and ended up purchasing the OEM receiver.
ImageUploadedByAG Free1440677018.262985.jpg
ImageUploadedByAG Free1440677041.540406.jpg
RRToadhall said "Land Rover actually redesigned the locking mechanism in response to the number of folks not properly using the old system." I thought the problem was with this ImageUploadedByAG Free1440677079.893131.jpg
not the locking system. How do I tell if I have the redesigned locking mechanism?


'06 RRS LUX
 

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Garry

Thats a nice looking hitch.. Does it use the OEM reciever or is it bolted to the rear bumper frame?

MI2VA

Your last picture illustrates the point I was trying to make. The entire tongue load, both static and dynamic is supported on a thin cast section of the reciever. In aftermarked hitches the load is transferred to the frame through steel crossmembers and brackets usually bolted direct to the subframe. I see this as an engineering design issue on a critical part of the vehicle. If it were a forged piece I would have more confidence but it is cast steel. LR needs to man up and offer a solution to owners of older vehicles.

Andrew
 
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