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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

Firstly, Im new to the forum since and hoping to get some help.

The car (2009 RRS 5.0 Supercharged) cut out whilst accelerating. No bang, pop or anything. It just died - Engine and battery light on.

Managed to coast as far as I could to the side of the road: A slip road on a blind corner in the dark, dressed in all black, black car and 2 small kids in the freezing cold.

I quickly inspected it this morning at the yard it was recovered to. No fluid leaks. No hole in the block (assuming since no fluid escape). I attached a jump-pack but it just clicks on the start button and seems not to be turning over - but possibly could be that the battery is just too dead (trying to remain optimistic!).

My handheld scanner shows the following codes:


  • P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
  • P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 2 )
I've not cleared the codes as will wait for a plug in on a snap on diagnostic machine before doing so.

I'm no expert, but to me it doesn't look good that both banks are picking up Camshaft Position sensors - so am thinking possibly Timing Chain Failure
The car was driving perfectly beforehand, although did notice a *very slight* surge when driving (almost hunting). However doubt it's related to the break down?

Any help /advice would be greatly appreciated.

G.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #3
I wish you were right as the 4.2 replacement is much cheaper. However it's the facelift, 2009 and it's 100% the 5.0 engine
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #4
Ok so an update.

Dashboard oil level says "overfilled".

The engine also turns OK using a bar on the crank.
All seems connected as can see the cam gear turning in time with this so at least it isn't seized!

However, the serpentine belt which goes over the supercharger is NOT turning with oil filler cap removed (and looks beautifully clean in there).

...so from this may I deduce (tentatively) that the Supercharger appears to be seized???!

- How do I check this?
- What would have caused the Supercharger to fail?
- Is there any damage likely to have been caused by the Supercharger seizing?
- Is it a matter of replacing and off we go?

G.
 

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Considering the codes set, this sounds like a problem with the interface with the cam and crankshaft. Possibly a broken timing chain?
 

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I would get it into a shop and get everything off so you can see the timing gear. Then hope you didn't have a valve smack a cylinder. Did you try spinning the blower pulley independent of the belt ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To clarify, I had assumed at first (with both of the Camshaft position sensor codes) that the timing chain had failed - However, with the engine turning freely and cam gear connected and also turning in tandem with the crank via a bar (as seen through the oil filler cap on the Rocker Cover) that it's seemingly not the case and that the engine is free.

However what does not turn is the belt connecting the supercharger, and the supercharger pulley. Instead, this external belt just slips when we turn the crank freely by hand, using a bar.

Today I will be removing the belt from the Supercharger pulley, and trying to turn the Supercharger by hand (I didnt bother last time since it seemed to be obviously seized since the belt didn't turn, but didn't try it specifically).

I will try all of the pulleys.

G.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #8
Removed supercharger pulley belt.

Supercharger pulley will not turn.

Confirmed engine turns using 24mm socket on the crank.

Starter clicks. Doest try to turn over.

Any ideas? What would cause the starter motor to fail??
 

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Did the starter motor fail while the blower belt was connected? I don't know how far you are turning the engine by hand, but if the chain is broken, the engine will turn a small amount until it binds. If something let go in the engine, it is possible to have it lodged in the blower, or have damage done to the blower preventing free motion. Considering the construction of a blower, almost any change in clearances, regardless of the reason, can jam it. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #10
2009 5.0 Supe rcharged P0340 + P0345

Thabks for the reply.

Teh engine turns as much as you want it to so doesn't appear to be seized at all...

The starter hasn't worked since the break down... I wondered if its coincidence or if there's perhaps a safety cut out feature such as a fuse but no sign of a any blown fuses.

Just a very hot fuse and scorched fuse box where the rear heated screen 30a fuse is...

G.
 

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Re: 2009 5.0 Supe rcharged P0340 + P0345

I suggest checking the reason for the hot fuse box. Rarely are electrical issues not related. You may need to refer to a wiring diagram, but have you checked the battery? Is it possible that the electrical issue with the rear screen drained the battery or damaged it? Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's possible...

Although it's not turning even With 2 jump Packs so probably unlikely. I think it's an older issue which I've stumbled across yet will need looking in to assuming I can get her running or she's a big pile of very expensive scrap.

I'd only had the car 2 days when all this happened so previous existing and historical issues are unknown.

All other electrics are working including stereo, folding mirrors, lock etc.

It just won't turn... So assume its now pointing to stater or starter solenoid?

Would this be coincidence or is the sized supercharger likely to have caused damage to the starter - perhaps by pressing the start button whilst the siezed belt was still connected etc???

G.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a summary update in case it helps anyone else out.

Initial problem:
- Engine cut out whilst driving
- Fault codes showed 2 x Camshaft Position Sensor codes on both left and right banks.
- Engine would not start
- Engine would not turn (even manually, with a crank bar)

- We removed the Supercharger Belt and the engine did turn
- Tried again to start, but nothing on the button (not even a click)
- Removed starter motor and applied direct power. No reaction
- New starter motor fitted.
- Started instantly and ran without a problem (still with Supercharger belt removed)

Supercharger replacement:
- New supercharger purchased
- Old Supercharger removed (On inspection, seized solid as the blades had interfered and locked up).
- New supercharger fitted
- New supercharger belt fitted
- Started and ran well.

Problem 2:
- After 5 minutes on idle, a moderate sized water leak ....coming from under the new supercharger :(
- New Supercharger taken off.
- No sign of water leak.

We decided to replace everything that we could see could possibly be causing the leak with new parts.
- Fitted New Oil Cooler (Precautionary)
- Fitted New Oil Cooler pipes (Precautionary)
- Fitted New Water Pump (Precautionary)
- Supercharger re-fitted
- Started and ran perfectly, no fluid leaks.

Problem 3:
- Low Coolant light on dash (Faulty switch inside the header tank)
- New Header Tank fitted
- All sorted

Problem 4:
- Test drove perfectly - although very slightly felt as if it was hunting a little (even on cruise control) with a *slight* +/- variation of rpm as indicated on the rev counter.
- Next day, noticed that the gearbox was slipping when under load, to the point it even cut out and throwing a transmission fault on to the dash when we were road testing it in order to shake down the issue.
- Fault was self-clearing when ignition turned off/on.

- Gearbox had seemed OK, so next step was to check fluid.
- Gearbox fluid change undertaken. I'd say it was well overdue even though these are sealed-for-life units.
- Correct lubricants used with and additive to condition and extend the life of the fluid.
- Test drove perfectly and no more +/- variation of rpm.

Problem 5:
- After a fantastic 100 mile test drive I noticed an Oil Leak underneath the front of the vehicle which appeared to be Transmission fluid.
- Vehicle drove fine, so nursed it home.
- Vehicle put on ramp (FYI It's not going to rust any point soon!!!).

- Transmission fluid found to be slowly dripping from 1 of the 2 x transmission pipes on the gearbox oil cooler (It had been put on in such a way that the L shaped bend had rubbed on the chassis X-Member likely causing stress point to the pipe and a pin-hole.

- Decided to Replaced both pipes (second one as precaution due to age) on the transmission gearbox oil cooler.
- Gearbox fluid changed again using correct lubricant.




It's certainly been a long journey from January until now and I'm extremely lucky to have a good friend with both a pit and a vehicle lift big enough for the RRS in his garage who has done all of the work for me.

All parts used are Brand New, Genuine parts - so fair to say I've spent a lot of money i nthe right places, but the lifesaver has been my mate who's basically done all of this for hardly any labour.

Next.... Exhaust.........
G.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
....Did you try spinning the blower pulley independent of the belt ?
:dance::dance::dance::dance::dance::dance:

This advice was the absolute lifesaver.

@Win7ermute, Thank you so much. I'd written it off in my mind as a snapped timing chain.
 
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