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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Morning all, new to the site so still trying to navigate my way around, I have used the search facility but nothing coming up, has anyone got a definitive guide to swopping out the fuel pump and filter assemblies on a 2008 4.4 AJ Petrol.
Plenty of stuff on the net about the BMW 4.4 but all too early pre 2005 so a bit different, any help/advice gratefully accepted, TIA.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #2
Afternoon all, update is new fuel pump fitted and now up and running except fuel gauge reading wrong now!

Plugged in IID tool no faults relevant to fuel instrument pack any there were cleared, I can modify the needle location via the IID tool but it wont stay in any % position I choose as when I exit "control IO" needle drops to zero then returns to 1/4 tank after ignition off/on which is were it was previously even though I have a full tank of fuel.

So any suggestions on the cause or a remedy would be appreciated.
 

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There is a very specific procedure for L322 fuel pump replacement. If it is not followed to the letter your gauge will be out of calibration and you will need to start over from step one. For instance you MUST remove the key from the ignition prior to disconnecting the battery. Failure to remove the key from ignition will cause the gauge to memorize it's position. The floats may very well be working, but the gauge will not operate until you back track and walk through the steps again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
RRToadhall thanks for the info, where can I find the procedure you speak of as I have searched the net and cant find much but then again I am a dinosaur where computers are concerned.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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There is a very specific procedure for L322 fuel pump replacement. If it is not followed to the letter your gauge will be out of calibration and you will need to start over from step one. For instance you MUST remove the key from the ignition prior to disconnecting the battery. Failure to remove the key from ignition will cause the gauge to memorize it's position. The floats may very well be working, but the gauge will not operate until you back track and walk through the steps again.
I thought the fuel pumps were actually part of the gas tank/integrated? This is what I was told when it came to my 2009 RR, unless a 2008 model is different in that aspect.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
08/09 are the same as far as I know but I am not sure If petrol and diesel have the same in tank set up and obviously there is a external filter on the diesel and a different bleed process to clear air pre start after pump change on the diesel.

What I don't know and I am trying to find out is the steps needed to re calibrate the fuel gauge after pump change on a petrol or the steps I should have taken before I changed the pump and can retrace them so I wouldn't face this problem.

Car now runs ok after pump change its just the fuel gauge is showing 1/4 when full.

I have the IID tool but I don't think this can re-calibrate the pump to gauge so if anyone can shed any light on this it would be appreciated.
 

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RRToadhall thanks for the info, where can I find the procedure you speak of...
Apologies, I didn;t see this response/request. You just need to duplicate the electrical portion of the fuel pump replacement procedures. As noted above the key must be out of the ignition before beginning.

Remove key from ignition

Disconnect battery

Remove the pump access cover

Unplug the pump/sending unit connector.

As you pump is already replaced etc there's no need to go further.

Reconnect the pump/sending unit multiplug

Replace the access panel

Reconnect the battery

Start your Rover. Your gauge should now resynch to the float assemblies/level sensors.
 

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just did this on a 08. Make sure that both level sensor are not stuck on all 1 millions hoses and wires thats part of the fuel pump. Also take not of how the level sender on the left side sits. The strainer should be facing to the left of the car pointing towards the door. Make sure the actually pump is sit flush in the space provided. Last but not least the pressure pump which is built in the cap on the right side make sure its plugged up correctly and the single wire did come off the bottom of it
 

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just did this on a 08. Make sure that both level sensor are not stuck on all 1 millions hoses and wires thats part of the fuel pump. Also take not of how the level sender on the left side sits. The strainer should be facing to the left of the car pointing towards the door. Make sure the actually pump is sit flush in the space provided. Last but not least the pressure pump which is built in the cap on the right side make sure its plugged up correctly and the single wire did come off the bottom of it
just did this on a 08. Make sure that both level sensor are not stuck on all 1 millions hoses and wires thats part of the fuel pump. Also take not of how the level sender on the left side sits. The strainer should be facing to the left of the car pointing towards the door. Make sure the actually pump is sit flush in the space provided. Last but not least the pressure pump which is built in the cap on the right side make sure its plugged up correctly and the single wire did come off the bottom of it
Can you send a picture of the level sender you’re referring to ?

thanks
Crystal
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Theres two of them, one in the lest side of the tank, one in the right side of the tank. The tank has a hump in the middle that the driveshaft passes thru, so there is a jet pump on the right side of the tank that pumps gas from the right side to the left side where the main pump is. Once the level drops below the top of the hump (little less than half a tank), the jet pump keeps pumping fuel over to the right side of the tank, essentially emptying the right side of the tank first. The sensors are just resistors with different values that provide a signal to the instrument panel (They are different part number for the right left sides.) If buy a new pump assembly they come as part of the unit (for about 650 bucks from LR) . In the image below Parts 12 and 14 are the actual senders, 1 and 10 are the float arms and floats.
282115
 

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I just had installed a second new fuel pump (VDO A2C53341995Z / LR015178) and my fuel gauge is again not reading correctly.

Same symptoms for both of the new fuel pumps:

When completely filled, the gauge reads approximately 7/8 full.

When empty, with first replacement pump, the gauge read just over 1/8 full.

According to the technician, when the work was performed, the tank was essentially empty. On one side of the tank there was almost no fuel, and on the other (US passenger side) there was about 4-5 inches of fuel. They were very aware of the many hoses, etc. and were careful to avoid issues with sensor getting caught in hoses (this is the fourth time they've had the tank open).

After they completed the work, the gauge read essentially empty so they added about 7.5 gallons and the guage indicated approx 1/4 tank, which is about where it ought to be, but after adding another 17+ gallons this evening, the gauge shows 7/8 full.

Does the reset procedure above work? How long does the multiplug have to be disconnected from the pump? I assume the multiplug is #9 in the above illustration?

Thanks!
 
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