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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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On diesels and during a cold weather you definitely have to. On petrol engines you don’t really have to. Could be fuel pump is not pumping quick enough or filter is clogged. When I changed the filter it gushed out almost black gas out. At 130k if you never changed it you should definitely look in to it.


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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Good point.

How was replacing the Fuel Filter on these L320s? I did lower the Fuel Tank once when I replaced the splash guard, but never fully dropped the tank down.

Is it just twisting the cap off and disconnecting a couple of hoses, or do i have to disassemble the fuel pump and internal fuel lines, etc.


-John

On diesels and during a cold weather you definitely have to. On petrol engines you don’t really have to. Could be fuel pump is not pumping quick enough or filter is clogged. When I changed the filter it gushed out almost black gas out. At 130k if you never changed it you should definitely look in to it.


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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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139 Posts
I can’t remember the exact procedure which is not good since I’m about to do it again but from what I remember is you don’t mess with the pump itself it’s just cap and filter itself, fairly easy tbh. Make sure you don’t have much fuel in there so the tank I’m not too heavy and once you remove it make sure it goes straight up so you don’t dump the bad fuel back into the tank. Filter is pretty cheap and from what I saw last time definitely needs replacing. I’m not saying it will solve your issue but definitely worth looking into it as they do become clogged.


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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Is this the part? Where does it do the filtering? Is there a filter bag or canister that is not shown on the photo?


Thanks.


-John

I can’t remember the exact procedure which is not good since I’m about to do it again but from what I remember is you don’t mess with the pump itself it’s just cap and filter itself, fairly easy tbh. Make sure you don’t have much fuel in there so the tank I’m not too heavy and once you remove it make sure it goes straight up so you don’t dump the bad fuel back into the tank. Filter is pretty cheap and from what I saw last time definitely needs replacing. I’m not saying it will solve your issue but definitely worth looking into it as they do become clogged.


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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Actually, digging into it more, it looks like the Fuel Filter is part of Fuel Pump WGS50012.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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139 Posts
Yes you’re right, I just noticed you have an 07 MY. Later on it was just a cap with filter. So yes you would actually have to replace the whole thing. Make also sure to disconnect the fuel pump fuse from the engine bay compartment. Once you do take the tank down and remove the cap there should be a good amount of room to get the pump. Again make sure you’re almost empty. For the fuel pump it self I’m not sure if you need a special tools to disconnect the fuel lines but judging from the fittings on the fuel pump it should be just plug and play.


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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Another symptom that might be related is that the Fuel Capacity after i fill the Fuel Tank all the way has gone down. Car used to say 435 Mile Range after each fill up, and I think now it is around the 325 Mile Rage.

What do you guys think is the relation? Maybe this is worth its own topic.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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417 Posts
Ok, lets make sure I understand you correctly... If you jump in to the rover and turn the key, it starts and stalls.
But if you turn the key one click, give it some time and then twist it to start, it works? If yes > very well could be the the valve that prevents fuel from draning back to the fuel tank from fuel lines.
So if try to start immediatelly - it will seep residual fuel from rails and stall.
If you wait a bit - fuel pump will get a chance to push fuel trough lines and build the pressure. I think that valve is part of a pump (to be verified) and if you're getting whole new assembly with pump and filter - this should be resolved. Also, if/when you drop the tank, I would advice you to have somekind of bottle/canister and fuel safe suction pump with extention - if there would be a lot of dirt/debris in the tank, you dont want to leave it in there.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
The turn the key and wait for the whine/noise to be over then crank/start the engine was just started yesterday. Just did it again today and the car started right away. I would like to say it again that I never noticed the whine/whirr/priming sound after the chimes until yesterday.

Yes it does sound like a valve that prevent fuel from backing out of the pressured lines are not doing what they are supposed to. The car/Fuel Pump ASM do have 130k miles, so this could very well be a sign to get the pump replaced.

Will do this for the next few days to get more data and monitor the progress.

Ok, lets make sure I understand you correctly... If you jump in to the rover and turn the key, it starts and stalls.
But if you turn the key one click, give it some time and then twist it to start, it works? If yes > very well could be the the valve that prevents fuel from draning back to the fuel tank from fuel lines.
So if try to start immediatelly - it will seep residual fuel from rails and stall.
If you wait a bit - fuel pump will get a chance to push fuel trough lines and build the pressure. I think that valve is part of a pump (to be verified) and if you're getting whole new assembly with pump and filter - this should be resolved. Also, if/when you drop the tank, I would advice you to have somekind of bottle/canister and fuel safe suction pump with extention - if there would be a lot of dirt/debris in the tank, you dont want to leave it in there.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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417 Posts
John, it could be just a piece of dirt that prevent that valve from closing, not neccesary a wear. I guess if/when you'd be able to look inside of the tank - you will see the answer.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Looks like all the valves and filters are part of the Fuel Pump Module until the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. I think I might have to drop this tank sooner rather than later. I do not want it to get worse.


-John

John, it could be just a piece of dirt that prevent that valve from closing, not neccesary a wear. I guess if/when you'd be able to look inside of the tank - you will see the answer.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5 Posts
It could be also a maf sensor or throttle body issue
I had an identical situation with my 06 rrs supercharged. It was the MAF in my case, but I also had a fuel trim code code to point me in that direction. Could be something else in your case.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Ah.

Ya no codes unfortunately. If I do wait for the fuel priming to finish, it fires right up, so that's a good thing I guess.

Thanks for the input.


-John

I had an identical situation with my 06 rrs supercharged. It was the MAF in my case, but I also had a fuel trim code code to point me in that direction. Could be something else in your case.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Where would I find the/a valve in the tank?

I replaced the fuel pump today and the hesitation when I stomp on the gas pedal is back! Seems like my low Fuel Range is fixed also. Will monitor and post here. Is there something else in the fuel tank that is worth replacing at 130k?

I will check on the cold start tomorrow morning.


John, it could be just a piece of dirt that prevent that valve from closing, not neccesary a wear. I guess if/when you'd be able to look inside of the tank - you will see the answer.
 

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1,254 Posts
remove the air filter housing, and spay some maf or tb cleaner down towards the engine . Then have some one crank the engine while you keep spraying. If the engine starts slightly, for a brief second, then it's most probably the fuel pump. did you notice issues where the pick up was not as strong as before before the stall?
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Yes I noticed hesitation when getting on the gas before - It was random though. Now with the new fuel pump, the acceleration feels like back when I bought it.

The giveaway was the fuel pump priming after the chimes, which eventually got loud enough to where I started hearing it. So I started the car after and it started right away.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
I opened the Fuel Pump ASM and did not notice anything out of the ordinary. Nothing was broken or out of place. I did make sure that all the fuel line connections were properly made and sealed when I put everything back together. I did not see any dirt or grime in the tank neither that was worth cleaning.

John, it could be just a piece of dirt that prevent that valve from closing, not neccesary a wear. I guess if/when you'd be able to look inside of the tank - you will see the answer.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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611 Posts
John, stop buying parts. You will replace half of this car soon and this may not help you.

Which engine do you have?
If you have 4.2 I strongly advise you to check fuel pressure sensor.

You can check it with an ohmmeter
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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100 Posts
Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
If the Fuel Pressure Sensor is bad, would it generate a CEL?

What reading should I get on the ohmmeter?


-John

John, stop buying parts. You will replace half of this car soon and this may not help you.

Which engine do you have?
If you have 4.2 I strongly advise you to check fuel pressure sensor.

You can check it with an ohmmeter
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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611 Posts
If the Fuel Pressure Sensor is bad, would it generate a CEL?

What reading should I get on the ohmmeter?


-John
It is a very tricky part john. It can stop the engine, it can cause heavy black smoke, it can cause no start. I had black smoke, reduced power my friend had no start and stalling.
In my opinion it act different with diffent software. You have to do also a pcm update. Dont forget about that
I am searching an old post of mine to say the resistance on this sensor.
Its a ford made part, rarely fails.
 
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