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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of purchasing a 2007 Range Rover from my boss knowing it has some suspension problems. I picked it up from his house the other day and the car was fully deflated. after running for a minute the car raised and was fine. Later that day, I got a suspension fault error and the front airbags gave out and fully deflated. I put it away in the garage for a couple hours and started it up later and the front inflated and it was fine. Fast-forward to the next morning, I go to take the car out and the suspension fault error occurs again and the front gives out and fully deflates. While driving back to the garage the back then gave out and fully deflated as well. Since this past Saturday at noon, I have not been able to get the car to inflate. The battery on the car is a new battery. I am not sure if the suspension sensors are bad, if there is a leak or if this is a bad relay that finally gave out. I am almost leaning towards the Relay but don't know these vehicles well enough. I know this has been covered on here but want to see if anyone knows what I should do to pinpoint this problem before bringing it to the Dealership and paying way too much.

The Suspension Settings below the shifter do not light up after I get the Suspension Fault Message on the dash as well as the Terrain Management Switch doesn't light up and doesn't work upon getting the message.

I have not tried pulling the negative off the battery yet.

I have tried starting and restarting the vehicle.

I have not sprayed the airbags with soapy water to see if there is a leak.


Please see the pictures attached and let me know what your thoughts are or if I can answer any questions to help diagnose this problem.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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buy 4 new airbags and install them.

NOTE if you keep testing the leak you can include a 750.00 air compressor to the bill.

It would be best to buy new front complete struts instead of putting new front bags on the worn parts.

NOTE use Dow Corning 111 on all of the air connections this should prevent future leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You don't think it is more of an electrical issue than the Air Bags / Struts? I don't mind replacing the struts as it seems relatively easy. I am just not sure if the compressor is even getting power which leads me to think it could be the relay?
 

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Before you replace the whole suspension maybe get the fault codes first? If it is staying raised but then randomly deflating it could be something to do with the valve block, especially with the cold weather as of late. What can happen with water/moisture in the system is when the car sits the computer will wake up and re-level the car. Upon purging air in the system a valve opens but with moisture passing through the valve block it can cause the valve to stick and fully deflate parts of the system in cold temps.

When the lights are not longer illuminated on the controls it's in hard fault, you're going to need to reset that (maybe pulling the neg/positive off the battery and touching them together fully to drain the systems charge will reset but you're probably going to need a capable diagnostic to clear the code and pull the faults. When you do reset it set it to off road height and listen for a leak, you should be able to hear it if that's the case. If not lower the car a bit, rock it, listen for a leak. Sometimes damaged bellows will only leak under the right conditions. The fact it does raise, and stays raised up leads me to believe it has something to do with the valve block. It could literally be anything though, damage air line, perished bellows etc. Start with getting the cars suspension out of hard fault, pull the codes and post up your findings :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Before you replace the whole suspension maybe get the fault codes first? If it is staying raised but then randomly deflating it could be something to do with the valve block, especially with the cold weather as of late. What can happen with water/moisture in the system is when the car sits the computer will wake up and re-level the car. Upon purging air in the system a valve opens but with moisture passing through the valve block it can cause the valve to stick and fully deflate parts of the system in cold temps.

When the lights are not longer illuminated on the controls it's in hard fault, you're going to need to reset that (maybe pulling the neg/positive off the battery and touching them together fully to drain the systems charge will reset but you're probably going to need a capable diagnostic to clear the code and pull the faults. When you do reset it set it to off road height and listen for a leak, you should be able to hear it if that's the case. If not lower the car a bit, rock it, listen for a leak. Sometimes damaged bellows will only leak under the right conditions. The fact it does raise, and stays raised up leads me to believe it has something to do with the valve block. It could literally be anything though, damage air line, perished bellows etc. Start with getting the cars suspension out of hard fault, pull the codes and post up your findings :)

Thank you very much for your reply. I will have to try and disconnect the battery and fully drain the change like you said. I have never heard of touching them together. Good tip. But yes, my plan was to get it taken to Land Rover to have a full diagnostic run on the vehicle to pinpoint the problem. I am just debating whether I try and do it on my own first with disconnecting the battery or just bring it to them the way it is. I also didn't want to go ahead and order new struts seeing as the system doesn't light up or function and that leads me to believe it is more than a leak and count be a faulty relay or more of an electrical issue.

Thank you for your responses. I will let you know how things progress.
 

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Agree with Brad. Get the codes pulled. Sounds a lot like a valve block. Can't rule out a leak somewhere contributing to the primary problem. It's an expensive system. To start throwing parts at it before doing diagnostic work COULD solve the problem, but at what cost?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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if your truck has a hard fault then it will take a resetting tool to fix it .

NOTE the battery disconnect will not fix this .

if you have leaking airbags then fixing the fault and driving the truck without repairing the leaks will result in another hard fault, that will require another trip to the dealer.


NOTE the dealer will charge about 150.00 to reset the hard fault.


The dealer will charge about 1400.00 per front shock plus installation.

If you call Island UK they have new Delphi struts for about 350.00 each plus shipping.

get some DC111 and replace the struts yourself ,
order the parts from UK fix the truck,
and then go to the dealer for the reset



NOTE since this truck has almost 200 K miles,
replacing the front shocks should be done as a matter of course ,
they are a wear item,

NOTE the rear bags dont usually give any issues,
but if your noticing them going flat then its a good chance they are ready to be swapped out
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if your truck has a hard fault then it will take a resetting tool to fix it .

NOTE the battery disconnect will not fix this .

if you have leaking airbags then fixing the fault and driving the truck without repairing the leaks will result in another hard fault, that will require another trip to the dealer.


NOTE the dealer will charge about 150.00 to reset the hard fault.


The dealer will charge about 1400.00 per front shock plus installation.

If you call Island UK they have new Delphi struts for about 350.00 each plus shipping.

get some DC111 and replace the struts yourself ,
order the parts from UK fix the truck,
and then go to the dealer for the reset



NOTE since this truck has almost 200 K miles,
replacing the front shocks should be done as a matter of course ,
they are a wear item,

NOTE the rear bags dont usually give any issues,
but if your noticing them going flat then its a good chance they are ready to be swapped out
Merlin,

Thank you for that detailed information. I am indeed going to have someone come and take a look at the Rover from the Land Rover Dealership. Replacing the front struts is definitely top of my priority list on this vehicle. I just want to get the problem diagnosed first as I believe it may be more valve or electrical then a slow leak. PartsGeek.com has the full strutt assemblys from Arnott for ~$260

Also glad to know that the battery disconnect will not reset the hard fault / fix this.
 

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Thank you very much for your reply. I will have to try and disconnect the battery and fully drain the change like you said. I have never heard of touching them together. Good tip. But yes, my plan was to get it taken to Land Rover to have a full diagnostic run on the vehicle to pinpoint the problem. I am just debating whether I try and do it on my own first with disconnecting the battery or just bring it to them the way it is. I also didn't want to go ahead and order new struts seeing as the system doesn't light up or function and that leads me to believe it is more than a leak and count be a faulty relay or more of an electrical issue.

Thank you for your responses. I will let you know how things progress.
You may consider also just getting a cheap diagnostic... I did a review some time ago on a cheap diagnostic I keep in the car, it will clear hard suspension faults etc. Look for Icarsoft on amazon etc or search for my post here... I think it's 120 which is less than having a dealer pull codes for you.
 

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NOTE since this truck has almost 200 K miles,
replacing the front shocks should be done as a matter of course ,
they are a wear item,
I met someone recently with an 05 with almost 400,000 miles on it who apparently never had an issue with air suspension (original owner, a neighbor actually). His was on bumpstops for a few days. I just reset the codes for him and it's been fine since. I didn't hear it leaking, the compressor was working properly. Some fault about pressure static during compressor run which leads me to believe a valve was stuck due to cold temps. I agree replacing everything is nice at the cost of potentially thousands but to simply get back on the road might just require clearing codes, replacing a perished fitting/hose etc.

That said I keep an extra set of struts on my part shelf :)
 

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NOTE I would not put Arnotts on my truck as your installing a shock with new bags and repainted worn struts.

NOTE if you follow my instructions it will provide you with the best possible bang for your dollar,
and give you the best ride for your hard earned cash.

Their are less expensive ways to get new suspension parts ,
IE going to England and buying from a stockist on the Island,

NOTE these NEW shocks cost less than the repainted versions.

Your truck has almost 200K miles its time to replace the shocks on all 4 corners,
also swap in new bags in the rear.
Then you can forget about your air suspension for the next 10 years.

The best reward for these trucks is putting fresh shocks and bags on and then enjoying the ride of a 100K truck
 

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BTW, there are quite a few indy shops out there today with diagnostic tools equal to the dealership that can pull/clear codes for less.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
NOTE I would not put Arnotts on my truck as your installing a shock with new bags and repainted worn struts.

NOTE if you follow my instructions it will provide you with the best possible bang for your dollar,
and give you the best ride for your hard earned cash.

Their are less expensive ways to get new suspension parts ,
IE going to England and buying from a stockist on the Island,

NOTE these NEW shocks cost less than the repainted versions.

Your truck has almost 200K miles its time to replace the shocks on all 4 corners,
also swap in new bags in the rear.
Then you can forget about your air suspension for the next 10 years.

The best reward for these trucks is putting fresh shocks and bags on and then enjoying the ride of a 100K truck

Merlin,

Do you have a link to your instructions on replacing the Struts and where to get them and the best bang for the buck?
 

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Merlin,

Do you have a link to your instructions on replacing the Struts and where to get them and the best bang for the buck?
Look up Range Rover Front Strut replacement on YouTube. I first got my 2006 RR and after leaving it sit, the front would deflate and look like that. I never worked on a car before and decided to buy brand new front range rover struts for $600 each. It was a lot but they last for 10 years or so and I like being able to raise/lower my car. Getting to the point, RR wanted $2,400 for the front and I did it for $1,200 by myself at the auto shop. This being my first time, the first side took an hour and 20 minutes. The 2nd side took 20 minutes. Easiest thing I've ever done and good introduction to the mechanic world. (nice to save $ to..)

I'm at work but I will provide links to the video and website where I got the front struts later. You could get used Arnott struts but the main agreement from what I've read on this site is that if you're going to do it, do it right and replace with brand new OEM Struts.
 

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If you end up doing the install yourself do NOT strip the air to strut fittings. If memory serves they're brass and the housing is plastic, easy to strip the threads right out.
 
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