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Discussion Starter #1
Last night the fiance and I were on our way to the gym when I was driving and noticed the engine seemed as if it was overworking - best described as the engine breathing harder.

As we pulled on to the freeway we were hit with the "Reduced Engine Performance" error, followed by a low coolant message, and ultimately smoke coming from underneath the hood. After popping the hood coolant could be seen all along the inner side of the engine cover. The reservoir bone dry. It was dark out so I couldn't give it a good inspection but once I towed it home I reexamined the engine bay and couldn't see any signs of a busted valve/hose...

Any suggestions on where to look first? Add more coolant and see if it overheats again? I've got a Bluetooth obd scanner I plan on hooking up but I'm assuming the error will have to do with heating...

Here's some photo's;
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe it was overworked, not having coolant in the res? Last time you checked?
To be quite honest... I'm not sure. I changed the oil a few months back and forgot to check then but we had not driven it. It sat parked in our garage for a good chunk of that time with only minimum use in between (less than 100 miles)..


That very well could be the issue but where exactly would have Thr fluid shot out from?

Also sorry for the delay in pics, I'm still on the road and can't post from my phone.

One last thing ive read GM Dexcool coolant is sufficient for our veh, is this true?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Last time we were in Death Valley, that bleeder tee valve on a LR3 in our convoy broke. We "fixed it" MacGyver style, with the barrel of a ballpoint pen, chopped off to match the length of the broken valve. It actually held fine all the way back to Los Angeles! :grin: If that's what it is (very likely by your description), here is the OEM replacement - but you may want to purchase a fitting in brass which should be more durable than plastic in the long run (plastic becomes brittle and cracks due to the engine heat), something like this.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Had a similar experience with my 06 RRS SC too on the highway where it went into limp mode and wouldn't go over 45mph, but there was no smoke or leaks in my case. If I remember correctly it was some sort of coolant pump or water pump that had to be changed. There was a TSB on it...It was a manufacturers problem where the lines were installed the wrong way I think. Sorry, I'm not mechanically inclined at all, just trying to remember from like 5 years ago.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Had a similar experience with my 06 RRS SC too on the highway where it went into limp mode and wouldn't go over 45mph, but there was no smoke or leaks in my case. If I remember correctly it was some sort of coolant pump or water pump that had to be changed. There was a TSB on it...It was a manufacturers problem where the lines were installed the wrong way I think. Sorry, I'm not mechanically inclined at all, just trying to remember from like 5 years ago.
That was the electric coolant pump for the S/C...it was wired british style. Probably not the op's issue in this case though.
 

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Btw, the bic pen fix is absolutely brilliant. :thumb:
 

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Had a similar experience with my 06 RRS SC too on the highway where it went into limp mode and wouldn't go over 45mph, but there was no smoke or leaks in my case. If I remember correctly it was some sort of coolant pump or water pump that had to be changed. There was a TSB on it...It was a manufacturers problem where the lines were installed the wrong way I think. Sorry, I'm not mechanically inclined at all, just trying to remember from like 5 years ago.
There was an issue where some were wired backwards, but is also common for the auxiliary water pump for the super charger to fail. I had this issue in my 2007 SC - replaced the aux SC pump and all was well.
 

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I know the op did not explicitly state he does not have the supercharged version, but since I'm clairvoyant 8-|= I will tell you he has the NA 4.4.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I know the op did not explicitly state he does not have the supercharged version, but since I'm clairvoyant 8-|= I will tell you he has the NA 4.4.
Goose is correct! on all accounts; the T-fitting just beneath the 'FANCY' engine cover, and the non-SC 4.4 :)

Are you psychic too - What are this weeks lotto numbers?

Anyway, after doing a little more research I've realized how big this problem really is... what a shame. The bright side: it's an inexpensive fix. My dilemma now is figuring out if I need to bleed the system, my guess is yes. the reservoir that sits on the left wheel well is completely empty with slight residual at the bottom.

Anyone have a link on how to go about doing it? or can point me in the right direction...

Here's those pics finally...

IMG_20131219_160723561.jpg IMG_20131219_140716258.jpg
 

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Great, you found the culprit. If you intend on replacing it with the same part, that actually is one of the bleeders. Fill the reservoir back up, turn the car on and gradually open that cap. Put a pan and some towels under it to catch the fluid. After you are done top off the reservoir to the cold level. Take a drive around the neighborhood and warm up the coolant watching the temp gauge. Afterwards check that reservoir again. If you think you need to rebleed don't rebleed until it cools down.

I think there are other bleed points as well which Dave might enlighten us on--but you basically want to bleed at the highest point in the circulation system.

If you do replace that bleeder, I'd suggest tie wrapping it so it doesn't knock around on the throttle body. If you can find some antichafe wrap at the local parts store its prolly not a bad idea to wrap that rascal first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another victim! I'd just replace it with a straight splice as in this thread:

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/9-...hose-valve-broken-2006-range-rover-sport.html

My dealer does the same.
Thanks again guys...

If I do decide to replace with a straight barb - brass sits better with me than plastic - where should I bleed from?

Also, at this point I think I'm going to follow Goose's guide and replace the PCV while I'm at it, anyone think its worth replacing thermostat?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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No reason to replace it if it is working. I replaced mine last week and it was real easy. My CEL light was on with a code for thermostat. I did replace my bleed T with straight brass 3/8 connector as a preventive measure after reading on this forum.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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If the engine got hot enough to throw a fault, and go into Limp Home Mode, I would suggest replacing the thermostat housing. It is a big piece of plastic that has the hottest coolant in the system going through it, right out of the heads. I have seen several start to melt on the inside, and even cause complete engine failure due to blocked passages.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If the engine got hot enough to throw a fault, and go into Limp Home Mode, I would suggest replacing the thermostat housing. It is a big piece of plastic that has the hottest coolant in the system going through it, right out of the heads. I have seen several start to melt on the inside, and even cause complete engine failure due to blocked passages.
Thanks, just picked a new Thermostat... At $100, it is worth the piece of mind not having to worry about issues down the road.

Can anyone chime in on how I would bleed the system if I decide to replace the T connector with a brass barb... Thanks.
 

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With as much coolant loss as you had, I would suggest seeing if your local parts store has an airlift you could rent from them. It sucks the system into a vacuum, removing the air trapped in there, and lets you suck the coolant back in. This is what I, and most techs use, I have never used that bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
With as much coolant loss as you had, I would suggest seeing if your local parts store has an airlift you could rent from them. It sucks the system into a vacuum, removing the air trapped in there, and lets you suck the coolant back in. This is what I, and most techs use, I have never used that bleeder.
Thanks for the reply... It seems none of my local auto parts store know what it is, let alone carry to rent. =/ any other suggestions..? I really dont wanna have to buy one from amazon.

EDIT:
What the hell... what do the hipsters say; YOLO (you only live once). I went ahead and bought one from amazon;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IHK1VI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Now to find a good write-up to drain whatever coolant is left.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Thanks for the reply... It seems none of my local auto parts store know what it is, let alone carry to rent. =/ any other suggestions..? I really dont wanna have to buy one from amazon.

EDIT:
What the hell... what do the hipsters say; YOLO (you only live once). I went ahead and bought one from amazon;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IHK1VI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Now to find a good write-up to drain whatever coolant is left.
That's a nifty tool, never saw one. Be careful jaysen, tools are addicting, you're on the slippery slope of having the Snap-on truck coming to your house! `)

So, if you you are going all in on this with a full coolant change--which on a 2006 is prolly a good idea, then you want to drain from the lowest point, usually the lower radiator hose. It can get messy and splash around. Unfortunately most cars do not have drain valves on radiators anymore. Look around the bottom of the radiator for a plug and if you cannot find one then you will have to slide the hose off--watch out the latter can get messy and you want a big pan.
 
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