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Discussion Starter #1
Has been running fine til today, started this morning and cut out after 5 seconds, did that aprx 10 times til I left it, checked everything under the bonnet, oil was on minimum and was checked 2 weeks ago so has dropped recently, topped it up started fine went out in it ran as normal, started again earlier went out ran fine, then wouldn't re start when I came back to it, left it for 10 mins tried again and it started drove home fine, any ideas? No engine lights on to indicate fault?
 

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Go read for pending codes - unlikely to be related to oil level - start and die is more likely related to fuel pump, maf , bad fuel , and similar issues
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks getting codes read tommorow will there be any as there is no engine management lights on, it wouldn't start again last night but fired first time this morning and ran sweet, someone has suggested crank sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Changed both camshaft sensors made no difference still no start, started and ran with a jumpstart, so fitted new battery, has started and ran fine for a day now no start again, no fault codes stored any help or advice welcome
 

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The fact that it started with a jumpstart leads me to suspect it could be a bad ground. I would remove and clean the battery cables, then clean the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground from the engine to the frame rail.

I've never had the occasion to clean the ground wire from the engine to the frame, but have seen posts were it caused intermittent starting issues for others.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have checked all that and appears to be ok, would crank sensor cause these issues? It started and ran for 30 seconds earlier
 

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If it's firing up, and then dying, you're not going to be looking power/ground, the most power you use is during cranking. With the oil getting a little low, and it dying right after startup, I would check your throttle body for carbon fouling, you might have a failed PCV valve and the 'extra' oil getting into the intake has created an air dam on the TB. Will it start up and run ok if you give it a little gas while cranking? (10-20% throttle, not wide open)

Do you know what exactly the fault codes were? These crank sensors are not very failure prone, neither are the cam sensors, but a failed crank sensor will not allow it to start at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still dies if I give it some gas, but can leave it for a few hours and it will start and run fine? But can then not start for days! Not sure on the code itself but description was camshaft sensor inoperative in bank 1, I presume the Pcv is the circular black plastic part? Have had that of but can only see that the pipes are clear, is there a way to tell if it's working or just replace it?? And is it a case of remove throttle body and clean it out?
 

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If giving it throttle won't keep it running, then it's not PCV valve related, and probably not TB related either.

The actual fault code would help. Does it only die shortly after it's been running, as in only when hot, and cold start is ok, or just random when it runs and when it won't?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There are no fault codes now the cam sensors are done, completey clear of faults which doesn't help much! It seems to be random when it will start as has started this morning and ran for 10 seconds but then as if it's getting bogged down and a strong smell of fuel at the rear?
 

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2013 RS, 2017 FFRR
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Starting to smell like fuel starvation, fuel pump failing?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Low pressure or high pressure pump? It seems like it's getting to much fuel to me from the smell and cuts out as if it's flooded? The plugs are very black is it worth trying them for new, an would there be a fault code for the pump as there is still no codes?
 

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I know with certainty there is a pump in the tank...it's difficult to get to as I believe you have to drop the tank. I am not certain however if there is an additional pump in the engine...I'm sure RoverGuy will chime in soon.
 

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It is the diesels that have the second pump at the engine. The L322 with the same engine only has one pump. I sure can;t see the L320 petrol having an additional pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks I presumed it was just the one in the tank, is there any way to tell for sure if it's bringing the fuel up? Is there a method to confirm the pump on these? If it was injectors that were the problem would there be a fault code?
 
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