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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy Fellow Landies,

So I have now been plagued with the infamous Range Rover HSE L322 - Steering Column Issue/Key Not Turning Issue. I know it is a common issue and know there are lots of fixes but to no avail, none have worked.

Unfortunately, I have tried:

1. The "Terminal off battery Battery"
2. The Pull the "Fuse 18"
3. Top of "the steering column pull the column tab & spray WD-40"
4. The "precision" rubber mallet whack

and it did nothing. None of the "fixes" above did anything to get the steering column unlocked or recognize the key, or do the notorious double click like it should when the key is near the column. I'm truly at wit's end as I do not know what else to do? I am assuming it's a new/used steering column with a new/used immobiliser? Not sure what else it would be? Any suggestions would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance for any advice.

All the Best
TverTrekker "Immobilized in Texas"
 

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Is your steering wheel unlocked, can you turn it with the key out? There are two common failure modes. One is where the steering wheel remains locked due to the plunger. This can be resolved with the fuse 18 trick or disconnecting the steering wheel ECU and plugging back in. The less common failure mode is the steering wheel remaining unlocked, likely due to a bad motor, stripped gears, lack of lubrication on the locking plate, bad solder joint at the motor, etc.. That one will require you to remove the upper steering column and free up the locking plate to see why the motor is not turning. Once you free it up, you probably don't want to plug it back in again and use an emulator instead
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Howdy Lenlo

Thanks for replying. My steering wheel is locked, unfortunately. I have tried the "Fuse 18 Trick", no luck. Tried the removal of the positive from the battery and reconnected, still no luck.

Removed the steering cowling and unplugged the immobiliser and no luck. I'm pretty much at wit's end with it. I did come across a guy out of the UK who apparently can permanently kill the immobiliser through the ECM. But not heard back from him as of yet. If I don't hear from him, it looks like a used Steering Column looks like the solution for me.
 

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When you put the key in, do you hear the steering column click? If not, Test if you have 12v at pin #7 (red w/yellow tracer) on the steering column ECU wiring harness - Use voltmeter on disconnected plug.

If you have power on Pin #7, while the connector is disconnected, try jumping power to pin #1 (blue wire at same end of connector). Use a small jump cable or paper clip being really careful not to apply power to anything else. This effectively bypasses the steering column ECU. Just a guess here that if everything else didn't work, perhaps it's the key solenoid itself not disengaging. If you have an '06 or older, maybe try a spare key or blow some air into the key cylinder to make sure something hasn't fallen in there and not allowing the key to go in all the way - I recall Saab's having this issue with the ignition located on the console.
 

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Is your steering wheel unlocked, can you turn it with the key out? There are two common failure modes. One is where the steering wheel remains locked due to the plunger. This can be resolved with the fuse 18 trick or disconnecting the steering wheel ECU and plugging back in. The less common failure mode is the steering wheel remaining unlocked, likely due to a bad motor, stripped gears, lack of lubrication on the locking plate, bad solder joint at the motor, etc.. That one will require you to remove the upper steering column and free up the locking plate to see why the motor is not turning. Once you free it up, you probably don't want to plug it back in again and use an emulator instead
Its the other way round. The common failure is where the steering is unlocked and the fuse 18 trick sorts it out temporarily. TverTekker has the problem child where his steering is locked so fuse 18 wont help and is a lot more complicated to fix as mentioned.
 
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Thanks Ghur - I got that backwards... So he's on the path of removing the upper part of the steering column and freeing up the locking plate. I've seen where it was as simple as a wire being disconnected from the locking motor but probably best to disable it and use an SCL emulator. Curious on your thoughts!
 

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I am fortunate that I have never had the steering remaining locked issue so dont have any actual experience with it. But I did encounter one 2004 vehicle where the column was unlocked and the owner had wired up a press button switch to fuse 18. It worked fine for ages but then the steering column started making a clicking noise while being turned. It turned out to be the locking mechanism which had moved and was almost allowing the locking pin to engage. Very scary problem which could have been disastrous had it fully engaged.

I have no idea what caused the lock to move but the column had signs of a butcher being at work in the past which must have contributed. My fix was to drill through the column at the correct point and fit a bolt/nut which physically prevented the lock from ever moving again. Not actually a fix but the guy couldn't afford a new column so I made it safe for him. (This was a few years ago so cant remember why I did not remove the locking mechanism completely).
 

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Jeez, I could see how that would be possible given the column disconnected long enough. Potentially the plunger not holding the locking plate and the cam turning over time. One more thing to add to the rainy day list... I'm hoping mine is a simple as a cracked magnet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Its the other way round. The common failure is where the steering is unlocked and the fuse 18 trick sorts it out temporarily. TverTekker has the problem child where his steering is locked so fuse 18 wont help and is a lot more complicated to fix as mentioned.
Ghur

You are absolutely correct. :confused:
 

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Howdy Fellow Landies,

So I have now been plagued with the infamous Range Rover HSE L322 - Steering Column Issue/Key Not Turning Issue. I know it is a common issue and know there are lots of fixes but to no avail, none have worked.

Unfortunately, I have tried:

1. The "Terminal off battery Battery"
2. The Pull the "Fuse 18"
3. Top of "the steering column pull the column tab & spray WD-40"
4. The "precision" rubber mallet whack

and it did nothing. None of the "fixes" above did anything to get the steering column unlocked or recognize the key, or do the notorious double click like it should when the key is near the column. I'm truly at wit's end as I do not know what else to do? I am assuming it's a new/used steering column with a new/used immobiliser? Not sure what else it would be? Any suggestions would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance for any advice.

All the Best
TverTrekker "Immobilized in Texas"
Check your battery voltage is good as low battery causes this too, it only takes a small drop in voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Ghur - I got that backwards... So he's on the path of removing the upper part of the steering column and freeing up the locking plate. I've seen where it was as simple as a wire being disconnected from the locking motor but probably best to disable it and use an SCL emulator. Curious on your thoughts!
Quick update.

Andy thanks for the heads up on the battery charge. Charged the battery to full and tried Fuse 18, unfortunately, nothing. Also tried pulling the immobilizer socket and waiting about 5 minutes before reconnecting, again nothing.

Looks like a new (Used) Steering Column is in my future.

Lenlo, you mentioned an SCL emulator? Do you have one? Curious as to if you could recommend one that worked for you?
 

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Howdy Fellow Landies,

So I have now been plagued with the infamous Range Rover HSE L322 - Steering Column Issue/Key Not Turning Issue. I know it is a common issue and know there are lots of fixes but to no avail, none have worked.

Unfortunately, I have tried:

1. The "Terminal off battery Battery"
2. The Pull the "Fuse 18"
3. Top of "the steering column pull the column tab & spray WD-40"
4. The "precision" rubber mallet whack

and it did nothing. None of the "fixes" above did anything to get the steering column unlocked or recognize the key, or do the notorious double click like it should when the key is near the column. I'm truly at wit's end as I do not know what else to do? I am assuming it's a new/used steering column with a new/used immobiliser? Not sure what else it would be? Any suggestions would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance for any advice.

All the Best
TverTrekker "Immobilized in Texas"
This could sort it out:

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK thought I would give you an update.

Thanks, BitofAgit. I can now say that I tried the sewing needles in pins 1 & 7 and shorted them by connecting. And behold it started...

Unfortunately, though, the steering wheel is still locked and did not get the solenoid to pop up and allow the steering wheel to turn...

So half of the problem identified now I just need to get the locking solenoid to pop up.

Anyone that has any ideas as to get that done without having to pull the whole column, drill out the grommet pins in the box that holds the solenoid would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!!!

All the Best

TverTrekker
 

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You are going to have to open the box to get to the insides of that box. The only things in there is the locking plate that slides into the splines of the steering column, a motor and gear that turns 180 degrees with a linkage connected to the lock plate that moves it in and out, and a solenoid that holds the plate in the retracted position. When you put the key in and the chip in the FOB is read it sends a signal to the locking ECU which energizes that motor to retract the locking plate. Theres a magnet on the gear that the motor turns and when it rotates to the proper place (indicating the lock plate has been retracted) there is a hall effect sensor that sends a signal back to the column ECU saying its OK to start the car. The ECU sends another signal back to the ignition switch which retracts another solenoid on top of the ignition switch which allows the key to turn and start the engine. Either your plate is locked up inplace, or the motor has failed inside that ECU box. You may be a candidate for drilling a hole in the column and dousing the locking plate with WD40 or some other kind of penetrating oil to free up the plate. If the motor has failed the only fix is to remove the lcoking plate and leave it wired the way you have it, unless you can find a new motor, or new column.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the heads up. I already tried the WD-40, but no drill, I pulled the top aluminium plate up and targeted the area where the solenoid is located. Unfortunately did not work.
 

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here's a good video indicating where and how deep you have to drill:
 

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Kuhnke magnet - Go to this thread and start at post #56

Your problem lies with this bit, the part that pulls the locking plate away from the splines in the steering shaft. Yours is in the locked position, the motor has a cam that turns to pull the locking plate away from the splines. Either those gears are stripped, the locking plate needs lubrication, your motor shot or some electrical issue preventing it from powering the motor.

Here are some replacement motors - Not verified if they really work or not. I'm sure there are plenty of others. Here are two vendors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Kuhnke magnet - Go to this thread and start at post #56

Your problem lies with this bit, the part that pulls the locking plate away from the splines in the steering shaft. Yours is in the locked position, the motor has a cam that turns to pull the locking plate away from the splines. Either those gears are stripped, the locking plate needs lubrication, your motor shot or some electrical issue preventing it from powering the motor.

Here are some replacement motors - Not verified if they really work or not. I'm sure there are plenty of others. Here are two vendors.
Lenlo

Thanks, magnets ordered (3ea) figured it better to have a few. You read my mind as I have/had no clue as to the motor that switches the solenoid into place, so thank you for the information, highly appreciated. Only wish that I knew where I could also purchase the Kuhnke HS7378, just as a backup. At least I know the part number.

Cheers

TverTrekker
 
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