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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was getting a knocking from the rear right side when driving down uneven roads at 30-40mph. Decided to replace sway bar links (non-dynamic) and bushings. I also wanted to do the brake hoses since they are over 8 years old now (service schedule says to replace them at 6). Watched a couple of videos on the sway bar bush at Atlantic British site and also on brake hoses - although those videos are not really complete. I thought I'd make a few notes that might be useful if anyone else wants to try the job. I couldn't find a good video on drop links - but bushing video suggests 30 mins per side - similar for brake hose - of course it took me much longer on the garage floor - a couple of hours per side - but I was going slow and careful - and some of the bolts are tricky to get at - so take time.

1. First Jack car - car at normal height - door open on opposite side to stop air suspension leveling - chock front wheel - I used a harbor freight 3 1/2 ton Pittsburg steel jack - with rubber hockey puck on saddle - broke wheel nuts first with breaker bar and 22mm deep socket - raised at jack point on rear side frame (careful to lift on steel frame rail and not on cover for air compressor etc.) and then supported frame on 3 ton jack stand.
(This jack has enough lift to get wheel off the ground and works well).

2. Remove wheel. To do bushing - I found it much easier to remove sway bar link first. There are two nuts on top and bottom of link - 18mm wrench - but the whole bolt turns unless you have some way to hold it while turning the nut. I put PB blaster (or WD40) on the nut first. On my old links there is square end that you can hold with 8mm wrench while turning the 18mm nut. (on youtube videos for swaybars - some cars have flat nut behind the mounting point the bold goes through that you hold with thin wrench or pliers - on newer swaybar links they may have allen key socket on end of bolt that you hold with allen key while turning nut) - either way nut is hard to move to start - so I used 18mm deep socket and breaker bar to move it - and then technique with two wrenches above. Access to the top and bottom nuts is limited - so it took me time to get these off. Ratcheting 18mm wrench would have probably made it faster ! To get link out - I had to use (second) jack to raise suspension arm from bottom of control arm - then link pops out very easily. Leave link disconnected to now - while we do the bushing - but when ready to replace - put new link on bar & bracket - and tighten nuts all the way - to 65 lb.ft (thread locker could also be used).

I got Beck Arnley links to start from Rockauto - since the Delphi/Lemforder/Moog all ship from europe at much higher cost. But the rubber boots and spring clips of these parts were not good - so I ordered Mevotech from rock - which were fine - but next time I would just get the LandRover ones from merriamparts.com or other dealer.

3. Bolts for cover on swaybar bush come off with 13mm socket (or box wrench) - again limited access to takes a little time - on one bolt there was a 15mm nut underneath that I had to hold with socket on long extension - not sure why that was just on one nut ? Anyway - once bolts are out you can pry cover up with flatblade screw driver and move cover and bush down the bar to get both off. My old bushes were smaller than the new orange poly ones from Atlantic - there was a TSB from Landrover for 2006 (and maybe other models) to replace those bushes with a spacer or larger bush - so maybe that was part of my problem - I used Sylglide to lube the new bush - pushed it onto the bar - put cover over it and then pushed both up to the stop mark (metal ridge) on the bar - that was easier than trying to put cover on when new bush was already in position. Getting bolts back in was easier with sway bar loose (drop links not in yet) - and also took time due to limited access. I used box wrench to tighten - could not get torque wrench in there.

After bush is in - reinstall drop links - tighten with two wrench method - and torque to 65 lb.ft (rear spec)



4. Brake Hose - now is good time for brake inspection - pad thickness, rotor surface, fluid leaks ? Clean area with brake cleaner. My old hoses were actually in OK condition - no cracks - but since I was in there I decided to replace.

- i) Open hood and remove cover on driver side over brake fluid reservior. Electrical connector pops off (press in tab) and remove reservior lid. I'm not sure when my old fluid was changed - it was dark - not good - so I syphoned out as much as I could with turkey baster into empty gatoraid bottle - and filled with new Castrol DOT4. (LR specs castrol but I think any quality DOT4 should be fine - and DOT4 LV if you live in cold climate). Be very careful not to spill fluid - it will damage your paint !

ii) Upper hose - Use 11mm flare nut wrench to loosen nut on brake line that goes into the old hose (at both ends of hose). at this point fluid may start dripping out - so use rag, etc. to catch as much as you can - and make sure you have bowl and/or cardboard under the wheel area to catch spiils. Use flat blade screwdriver to remove clips that hold hose in place (I ordered new hydraulic clips from Rock Auto - they are cheap - you will need 8 for front and rear). I used pliers to pull the clip out the rest of the way. Then looses brake line nut all the way and hose just pulls away from line (make sure Brake Fluid Reservior is still full since a lot of fluid will be dripping out now). I ordered new Raybestos hoses from Rock - they fit and come with new washers (for bottom hose). Put new hose in position - put brake line back into hose and start the nut - then push clip back in to hold hose in position ( I used rubber mallet to bang clip in). TIP: hose ends have flat area that fits into bracket in car - so make sure the hose is oriented correctly for that. Then tighten nuts back up - until snug - do not over tighten.

iii) Lower Hose - at top end there is nut and clip (just like above) and at bottom where the hose goes into caliper - there is 15mm bolt that can be taken off with socket (clean area first) - note there are two copper washers on either side of the union - so when you put new hose on - make sure washers are there (my Raybestos hoses came with new washers but not bolt). Tighten bolt up snug - but again not over tight.

iv) Now time to bleed the brake on the side you just worked. I used Motive Pressure Bleeder - which makes it easy - Fill tank with Castrol DOT4 - pump to ~15PSI - then remove rubber cover on back of caliper nipple (clean area first) - on one side there is sensor wire which also needs to be pulled off nipple - attach clear 3/8" tube (I got 2' of line at Orchard Supply Hardware) - put other end of tube into empty gator aid bottle - use 11mm flare nut wrench to open bleed nipple 1/4 to 1/2 turn - old brown fluid and air bubbles with flow out down tube - when you see no more air and clean fluid - close bleed nipple (snug not over tight). Remove drain tube. Cover. Release pressure on bleeder before you move to next wheel. Check fluid reservoir level (after all 4 wheels - use turkey baster to syphon out excess fluid if needed).


5. Put wheel back on (clean area of hub with brake cleaner where wheel sits - I used a small amount of anti-size on hub ring where wheel sits - but they say not to use it on the wheel bolts themselves). Hand tighten bolts in star pattern. Remove jack stand and chocks. Lower car off jack. Tighten bolts to correct torque spec - 105 lb.ft I believe for these cars. (use torque wrench not air gun which could over tighten and warp rotors etc.)

Time to move to next side - or for a few beers when all done. Good luck. Hope this was helpful.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I would be interested in knowing how you like the poly-bushings. I am about to do my front and rears, and I have been considering using the poly-bushings, but have not heard a lot about them from RRS owners.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Drove around today - no more bumps and rattles from the rear-end - so I think the bushes and/or the links did the job. Polybush seems good - perhaps the standard ones would have been fine also. But I would also replace the links - it is relatively cheap and you have to disconnect them anyway to do the bush. I lubed the bush with SilGlide silicone lubricant (from Napa Auto) - not sure if that helps - but I saw a few posts where people do that as well.
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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I took a sharp right turn from a parking lot and heard a pop. Since then, there is a (slight) knock every time I turn or get the car side to side. Is this likely to be sway bar (bushings, I have ACE), or could it be something else like the struts? What should I look for visually?

Thanks in advance!
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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165 Posts
Found the culprit!

Can someone chime in to see what else I should look at other than this sway bar link to solve my issue? Also, should I keep the car jacked up?

Thanks.


-John



 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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615 Posts
Found the culprit!

Can someone chime in to see what else I should look at other than this sway bar link to solve my issue? Also, should I keep the car jacked up?

Thanks.


-John



WOW! Good one!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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whatever you can use to grab and hold that ball (wise grip or similar) while unbolting the other side. I've watched my indy replaced these a few times and do not remember him using a ball joint puller, also replaced these links on my wife's Audi TT myself without any heavy duty hardware like ball joint puller
 

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2007 Range Rover Sport SC L320
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165 Posts
Just did this and replaced the sway bar bushings also. Relatively easy, and no ball joint puller needed. The nuts on the stock links need an 18mm deep socket, but the replacements came with 19mm nuts.

Rover is back on the road! Thanks for the help/comments.
 
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