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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! I have a 2005 Range and lost keys. Went to the dealer for a replacement. They made a key and had to program it. Lo and behold I have to reset the computer every time I want to restart the car. either by removing a fuse for 20 seconds or unplugging the batter. I was told the issue is in the steering column and would need that replaced. Please help. there has to be a better solution.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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It's the steering column ECU that locks and unlocks the steering column when the key is inserted. Frequent problem on the older L322s and to fix it the upper portion of the column and the ECU have to be replaced (they are one piece). May be possible to disassemble the column lock assembly and remove the wheel lock plate (so the column won't lock up on you while driving), and remove a plunger in the ignition switch what would allow it to start but that would remove most of the anti theft features on the truck. Don't know if anyone has tried that. Most put a switch on the circuit fed by fuse 18 in the glove box that they can flip off and back on each time they start the truck, but if the column does not unlock even that won't do you any good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your feedback on that key issue. My husband put a switch on it for me. So instead of taking fuse 18 out every time I flip the switch wait 10 seconds and the car starts right up.

I'm having another issue now that maybe you can help me with. Was going up a slight incline and car just would not drive anymore. When I would give it gas it acted as if it was stuck in neutral. Yes, the select neutral message came across the dash. I had to have it towed home and it starts up every time just won't go in drive or reverse. Also grinds when shifting from drive to park. Any ideas of what that could be?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Check the transmission fluid level first, if its low it will slip. Also could be a misadjusted transmission shift linkage. Doesn't take much misalignment to throw the operation of the transmission off. Have you or the previous owner had an work done on the transmission, or inside the center console around the shifter?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
A better way to fix the column issue is to search for threads, then find the ones that tell you where to drill a small hole so you can spray lubricant into the mechanism. An actual fix instead of hacking into wiring with switches...... and free.
The trans issue....STOP running the engine then trying to put it into park. You'll end up tearing the parking pawl off. The transfer case is the culprit, not the trans. No fluid, never mind low fluid, wouldnt make it grind when putting it into park. It's doing that because the trans output shaft is doing its job and spinning when you put it into gear. But with nothing to stop it spinning (like the tires when you come to a stop) it is the equivalent of slamming it into park while driving down the road.
Check the fuse for the transfer case isnt installed, the one that puts it into neutral for towing etc. Otherwise check it's not in neutral. With all the wiring hacks, battery disconnects, etc going on, it could well be. Nobody knows where the wiring was hacked to put the switch, so nobody knows if that is the culprit or not.
Drill the column to lubricate the lock.
Get the transfer case back into high range.
Go enjoy it.

Martin
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Martin

Thank you for your reply. I noticed last night my boot had slipped. Mechanic is coming over this morning. My question is would the boot make the car not move forward? Also, how do you get it back on w/o having to go into a shop?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Hey Martin

Thank you for your reply. I noticed last night my boot had slipped. Mechanic is coming over this morning. My question is would the boot make the car not move forward? Also, how do you get it back on w/o having to go into a shop?
What boot exactly?
Either way, the transfer case is in neutral by your description.
Look up threads on the steering issue, and you will find the ones that have pictures etc of where to drill a small hole so you can lubricate it, then it works as intended most times.
Then undo what the hubby did and return everything to factory wiring. Heat shrink connectors or solder and heat shrink tubing only......

Martin
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
Here is a great article on the steering lock issue.
I know guys that have lubricated through the drilled hole, and it was trouble free forever, myself included on a parts car.
Follow that and fix the steering

steering lock fix.jpg
steering lock fix pt2.jpg

Martin
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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31 Posts
The exact same thing happened to my 06 in reference to not moving, I talked to the dealership and they said new transmission, I had it towed to a transmission shop and they said it was my front passenger side axle was part out. They put it back in place charged me 65 buck and I haven’t had a problem with the transmission since.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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That's one thing most people with AWD vehicles don't understand. You loose one CV joint or pull a single axle shaft and you have a no wheel drive vehicle. They won't move at all if one of the 4 drive axles come apart or are removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys you are awesome!! So I had one shop help me out the other day. They popped my axle back in and I was able to drive for about 20 min at low speed. Seemed like the truck was stuck in low gear. Having driven it about 20 min there seemed to be an oil leak. I was told or read that it wasn't much to worry about because having driven that at a low speed the oil pressure was high and maybe coming out of the dipstick. So two questions...with the car being in low gear will I have to manually put the trans case motor back into high gear? 2nd question what about the oil leak...could that have come from driving at a low speed for a few miles?
 

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Please clarify a bit, stuck in low gear as only running in 1st (or 2nd gear) and not shifting up or down with roadspeed ? or is it in low range and shifts through gears but much quicker and only reaches a fraction of normal roadspeed in each gear ? Do you see where oil is leaking from ? could possibly be oil from the front differential from the the driveshaft (axle) having been out.
 
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