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I have a 2004 Range Rover that started with a slow coolant leak...I added about a quart of coolant a week for about 4 weeks...The Land rover mechanic replaced coolant gasket in back of motor along with water pump and thermostat...He also pulled the radiator and had it checked for leaks and flow, it checked ok...All leaks have stopped...But now the car overheats when driving but not at idle...He has check for misfires and hydrocarbons and the car has none as well...What would one think the problem is???....I'm now thinking there is a problem with the head gasket/heads? Any advice would be greatly appreciated?
 

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If it were a head gasket you'd know pretty quickly, the oil would be fouled and you'd notice it running like crap...

I'd check for air in the coolant lines, that'll cause an overheat real quick.
 

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I told him to check for an air-lock in the system...The mechanic is a Land Rover certified mechanic has a ton of experience with Range Rovers, etc...He even said this acts just like a flow problem, but swears he has all air out of the system...All the mechanics at the dealership cannot figure out what the problem is...
 

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jdillon25 said:
I told him to check for an air-lock in the system...The mechanic is a Land Rover certified mechanic has a ton of experience with Range Rovers, etc...He even said this acts just like a flow problem, but swears he has all air out of the system...All the mechanics at the dealership cannot figure out what the problem is...
sounds like a problem
 

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jdillon25 said:
The mechanic is a Land Rover certified mechanic has a ton of experience with Range Rovers
He may have worked on RR's before, but does he have BMW experience as this engine was only used for 3 years over the 40 years of Range Rovers but has been in BMW cars for 15+ years. Also I'm not aware that Land Rover "Certify" anyone other than their main dealers (a quick google search backs this up!), so if he's told you this bull then you need to move on to a different person!

Either way, he's replaced the thermostat - but has he checked the electrical heating element around the thermostat? Has he replaced the expansion tank cap as this houses a pressure valve that regulates the pressure of the coolant; If this has failed then the coolant is allowed to boil too easily and you will overheat.

Have you (or has he) verified the coolant temperature to make sure it's not a dodgy gauge or sender?

Dan
 

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Had this happen many years ago (40+) turned out to be a partially blocked radiator even though the flow ckeck proved to be ok.
Stewart.
 

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I would like to know if you have solved your problem, I'm having asimilar problem......I have a 2004 Range Rover that started with a slow coolant leak...I added about a quart of coolant a week for about 4 weeks...The Land rover mechanic replaced coolant gasket in back of motor along with water pump and thermostat...He also pulled the radiator and had it checked for leaks and flow, it checked ok...All leaks have stopped...But now the car overheats when driving but not at idle...He has check for misfires and hydrocarbons and the car has none as well...What would one think the problem is???....I'm now thinking there is a problem with the head gasket/heads? Any advice would be greatly appreciated?[/quote]
 

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Also include the possibility that the internal engine block passageways could be filled with sediment. It does and can happen that the passageways around the engine cylinders can fill up with sediment and decrease the engine cooling ability. You may try a simple flush of the engine block and see what comes out.

A symptom of the sediment build up can be that the engine reaches temperature very quickly. The cylinders are insulated with the sediment and the engine reaches temperature very quickly.
 

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A Possible cause is the Water Pump impeller may have slipped the shaft and when the engine is under load it spins on the shaft and does not produce enough fluid force through the coolant gallery.
 

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Oh also look at Valley Pan that Bytch Leaks as well
 
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