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Hello. I just had my car codes read due to the check engine light coming on and it was P1171 and p1174. The RR mechanic recommends replacing the MAF sensor for bank 1 and 2. Also replacing the fuel filter and fuel pump. Is this generally the cause for these error codes as well as the MAF? The shop is also replacing my coolant expansion tank because its cracked and leaking. They also stated that the hose that connects to the bottom on the expansion tank is bad and recommend replacing it as well. The shop wants to charge another hour of work for the hose ($120). Is that standard for the shop to charge another hour of labor for replacing the hose at the bottom of tank if they are already taking out the coolant tank? Just trying to be sure.. thx
 

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Well..

No?

Only one MAF.. buy it yourself and replace it yourself it's not difficult at all. I don't think it is a MAF, but can't be sure without proper readings. Should be reading about 8-8.5

Have fuel pressure checked.

Replace fuel filter only. Probably has never been replaced and can be clogged if cheap gas is used.

What's bad about the hose? I can replace it in 5 minutes or less, it is 2 clips that pull out each end of the hose. Another 10 minutes to bleed that part of the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They stated the hose at the bottom of the expansion tank is busted. And the expansion tank is cracked. Is the hose to the expansion tank reachable at both ends from the top of the car or would I need to get under? I will have them check the MAF reading today and the fuel pressure. Is there anything else to check that would be throwing the P1171 and P1174 errors?
 

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Ask for a picture..

Vacuum leaks can cause those codes, but that's off the top of my mind
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Tank cracking happens, quite common on these and 740's - BMW. Source one on ebay or amazon - 30 bucks If I remember right. Did this early this year. Hoses - pull up the wire clip till it stops (maybe 1/2") and wiggle off, pushes right back on with the clip back down and you will hear the click when its tight of the wire seating in the channel. My aftermarket tank took two o'rings to seal for some reason - handy harbor freight orings. Maybe the hose was weird. Bleed as stated in RAVE by loosening the bleed screw on the tank and adding coolant. The hose at the bottom was not difficult. Easy when replacing the tank as its right there. One of the hoses connects to waterpump, radiator and tank - but that's the upper hose on the tank. Look for swelling on that hose near the block and radiator -giveaway hose is ready to go.
 

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When removing the hose off the expansion tank it can be a bit of a beast getting it to separate if original so be patient with it if you do it. Use the dow corning silicone grease on the fittings to wipe them clean and lubricate the O-ring so it will work properly on reassembly. Not sure what the shop rate is on the tank change. There should be info on it. Alldata publishes times for repairs so if you can access one of those it will help you determine what those guys are like. When we bought our P all data came with it and on about 4 pages it listed every job time you could think of. Never got one for the L322.
 
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