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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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as the is no water in the tranny, I can guarantee it is not dripping water. That is condensation from your A/C system. There is a drain on each side of your tranny, the evaporator draws moisture out of the air in the cabin... thus cooling air.
This was my assumption. It wouldn't make much sense for it to be anything else, especially since the coolant level is good.

Hopefully we here from some of the other vets on here that have dealt with troubleshooting the transmission failsafe system.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #2
Re: 2004 L322 - Transmission Dripping Water

Things are improving.

Today I installed a new radiator, and transmission cooler. And the radiator temperatures seem to have stabalized.

During highway driving with speeds above 60 mph the transmission temperatures are stable at around 98C with an outside temperature of 75F (24C). During city stop and go, the transmission temps will peak at about 105C at stop lights and cool off to about 99C when I accelarate and the radiator is doing it's job. This still seems rather high to me, even though I have read posts here and else where that indicate it is totally normal. Prior to the radiator and trasnsmission cooler replacement, the temps would just continue climbing regardless of driving conditions.

But, here is the problem I have now. My plan was to drop the transmission oil pan and do a filter exhange and top off with new fluid. But it appears the fill plug torx bolt has been stripped. I am really glad I noticed this prior to removing the pan and getting to work. See below for image.

https://imgur.com/uDn81d4


When I fiirst saw this I thought the fill plug had gotten snapped off (it was dark under there). But after looking at the pictures I snapped, it is obvious this is a stripped torx.

I didn't loose too much fluid during the transmission cooler replacement (maybe 60-80 ml), and the temperatures aren't getting too crazy, which is good. But considering I just bought this rig, there is no telling how long this transmission has been getting abused, and I now need to do a complete flush, and get her topped off with fresh transmission oil.

So now I have to figure out how to get this sucker out. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. I'm pretty frustrated.

Thanks
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Re: 2004 L322 - Transmission Dripping Water

Well look on the bright side! Maybe that means it has had a fluid change in the past....
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Re: 2004 L322 - Transmission Dripping Water

Here's an idea from left field. IIRC, the 2004 has the BMW M62 or M63 motor.

I had a number of BMWs with this model motor, and they were notorious for having valley pan gasket leaks. The valley pan sits between the two cylinder banks and seals coolant channels. The gasket on the valley pan was very poorly designed and nearly always leaked.

The coolant would leak out of the valley pan area and then drip onto the transmission, resulting in a puddle under the car.

It's generally difficult to see the back of the valley pan area, but it can be done.

I replaced two or three of these valley pans over the years.

Something to keep in mind if you're still having the leak after you do what you plan on doing.
 

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Here's an idea from left field. IIRC, the 2004 has the BMW M62 or M63 motor.

I had a number of BMWs with this model motor, and they were notorious for having valley pan gasket leaks. The valley pan sits between the two cylinder banks and seals coolant channels. The gasket on the valley pan was very poorly designed and nearly always leaked.

The coolant would leak out of the valley pan area and then drip onto the transmission, resulting in a puddle under the car.

It's generally difficult to see the back of the valley pan area, but it can be done.

I replaced two or three of these valley pans over the years.

Something to keep in mind if you're still having the leak after you do what you plan on doing.
So I read several posts here and elsewhere about the possibility of a valley pan leak. The problem I have in believing this is the issue, is that the coolant level is stable.

If anything it was too full prior to my coolant flush, and fit of a new radiator and transmission cooler, which I knocked out yesterday. Thanks for the input though. I am gonna keep am eye out for this.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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Things are improving.

But, here is the problem I have now. My plan was to drop the transmission oil pan and do a filter

When I fiirst saw this I thought the fill plug had gotten snapped off (it was dark under there). But after looking at the pictures I snapped, it is obvious this is a stripped.

So now I have to figure out how to get this sucker out. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. I'm pretty frustrated.

Thanks
Don't give up. I was in the same boat last week. See pics attached. I drained the fluid and removed the tranny pan so I could see the other side of the bolt before drilling. I tried hammering spline bit sets in there but it was not grabbing. So I went and bought a Dremmel 4000 along with a separate small flexible extension accessory because there was no room to work with under there. The small extension was just perfect in drilling a big enough hole through the bolt, and then hammering in a screw extractor. Then using a wrench on the screw extractor as well as soaking the bolt with Liquid Wrench for an hour the bolt came loose. It is proven that Liquid Wrench is the best so I went out looking for it at parts store. Carefully not to damage the tranny valve body while drilling and hammering. I actually spent half day pulling it out because I was going back and forth to buy tools and bits.
Now the screw extractor is stuck in the bolt but that is a good problem that I will solve later or just throw away lol.
New bolt ordered from pelican parts # 24117552349-M103 $5.54.
 

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Re: 2004 L322 - Transmission Dripping Water

I've used easy-outs for a few of these situations too, and they are great.
I'd think there would be reverse thread bolts - preferably course thread, maybe self-tapping - that could be threaded into a stripped-out hole that would tighten to the depth of the spline, then when it reached the max that it would thread, begin to remove the bolt.

I know, that would be nice, but in a perfect world...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: 2004 L322 - Transmission Dripping Water

Don't give up. I was in the same boat last week. See pics attached. I drained the fluid and removed the tranny pan so I could see the other side of the bolt before drilling. I tried hammering spline bit sets in there but it was not grabbing. So I went and bought a Dremmel 4000 along with a separate small flexible extension accessory because there was no room to work with under there. The small extension was just perfect in drilling a big enough hole through the bolt, and then hammering in a screw extractor. Then using a wrench on the screw extractor as well as soaking the bolt with Liquid Wrench for an hour the bolt came loose. It is proven that Liquid Wrench is the best so I went out looking for it at parts store. Carefully not to damage the tranny valve body while drilling and hammering. I actually spent half day pulling it out because I was going back and forth to buy tools and bits.
Now the screw extractor is stuck in the bolt but that is a good problem that I will solve later or just throw away lol.
New bolt ordered from pelican parts # 24117552349-M103 $5.54.
Very helpful. Thanks for the pictures too. I think I am going to give this a shot over the weekend. I feel safe driving around with temps at 97C. And most of my driving is done on the interstate.

Sage advice. Thanks friend.

Alfred Scot
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Re: 2004 L322 - Transmission Dripping Water

There's probably not enough room but a centerpunch and a hammer usually works to remove stubborn plugs. Just set a punch mark then put the punch back in the mark and hammer it counterclockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: 2004 L322 Transmission Issues

Nice.

I think a version of this method that would work, would be to use a chisel. Same concept, but the flat chisel might work a little better because it is longer, heftier , and will touch a larger surface area which may translate into more energy being delivered.

Good idea. Thanks for the tip.
 
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