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Hey Everyone.

I bought a used 2004 Range Rover HSE last week, it has 110,000 miles and I was able to pick it up for 3,900.00 USD. I drove this thing once and fell in loved the engine, and overall felt great to drive. I knew it wasn't without problems, but I don't mind turning a wrench and love troubleshooting and fixing stuff.

It does have some issues with the transmission that I want to get resolved before I put any miles on it. After reading on here over the last week, My knowledge of the Transmission and coolant system is growing. But would like some guidance as to how to proceed.

On cold start the transmission shifts smoothly and performs just as I would expect it to. But, after driving around a city environment with frequent shifting, the transmission is getting hot and the RPMs have to increase to a higher threshold before shifting. As I slow down, it will downshift from 4->3 then to 3->2 and finally from 2->1. if I try to accelerate at this point, the transmission will not shift back up. If I turn the rig off, and restart it will resume normal operation for a time, but seems to shift pretty rough, specifically there seems to be a rough downshift when coming to a stop at a stop sign.

My understanding is that this is a failsafe mode and this is the electronics protecting the transmission from overheating. I shot the transmission oil pan with an IR thermometer and it is reading between 100 and 115 (centigrade) depending on the location I focus on with the thermometer.

The most troubling part is that there appears to be water dripping off both sides of the pan. I checked the coolant level and it is full (probably too full), and the coolant is blue (which I think is the wrong coolant).

I have a link to a picture, and video below, and I plan to document the repairs with video and pictures to help all others in the future who have the same problems.

http://imgur.com/gallery/DEv75Ln

https://youtu.be/ZnZZhSAmeC0

Thanks again
 

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as the is no water in the tranny, I can guarantee it is not dripping water. That is condensation from your A/C system. There is a drain on each side of your tranny, the evaporator draws moisture out of the air in the cabin... thus cooling air.
 

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Coolant overfilled? Yes it appears it is. Blue coolant is fine. Probably is a bmw coolant. I use the blue bmw coolant in both of my L322s only because it makes sense for me since it is a bmw engine and the bmw dealership is closer to me than LR. My 05 just hit 90K miles and over this past weekend I drained the tranny fluid...omg you would not believe how burnt the color was. It was darker than motor oil. I replaced its filter and gasket. Now waiting to a new fill plug to arrive because I had to drill out the old one. Someone stripped it. Anyways I am no expert but you should probably take a look at the tranny fluid and consider a flush.
 

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I have the parts ordered already, and they will he here tomorrow. I am not going to do a complete flush, just a filter replacement along with the pan gasket and o-ring.

We're you having any issues with the failsafe on your rig? Or was your decision to do the service purely preventative?
 

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I had this problem when i got my 03 Range Rover a few years ago, after 10 min would not go above 3rd gear.. Check that the transmisson cooler is not clogged on the coolant side; mine had gunk in there restricitng coolant flow. I replaced the transmission oil cooler and the radiator and that solved my problem.
 

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I had this problem when i got my 03 Range Rover a few years ago, after 10 min would not go above 3rd gear.. Check that the transmisson cooler is not clogged on the coolant side; mine had gunk in there restricitng coolant flow. I replaced the transmission oil cooler and the radiator and that solved my problem.

I believe this is my problem as well. I have already ordered the transmission service kit with fluid, pan, gasket, o-ring, filter, and an extra quart of fluid. I will probably go ahead and order the transmission cooler as well.

Hopefully this will fix my issues.
 

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Blue coolant is THE correct coolant. It's the BMW coolant for this engine, also available at Advance Discount Auto and Rock Auto as the Pentosin coolant prescribed for the 2003 - 2005 LR RR.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7668852&cc=1428072&jsn=363

While it's cheaper at Rock Auto, I frequent the local Advance Discount Auto parts just because I appreciate that they carry it, and don't want them to stop.


Until the transmission expert weighs-in on the transmission performance, I agree that it sounds to me like the transmission cooling identified above, but it could be either (or both) the transmission cooler and/or the bottom few rows of the radiator itself, which is the part of the radiator that cools the transmission cooler.
Both of those are usually available on Rock Auto (Hella/Behr is the OEM brand). I've replaced the transmission cooler once and the radiator a couple of times in the 11 years I've had my 2003 RR, once after my transmission acted "cranky" once or twice, kind of like you describe.
At Rock Auto, the Behr/Hella radiator is $167.79.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+rover,2004,range+rover,4.4l+v8,1428072,cooling+system,radiator,2172

The Behr Hella transmission cooler is $79.99.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+rover,2004,range+rover,4.4l+v8,1428072,transmission-automatic,oil+cooler,2088


I've heard some say that the way to check the lower end of the radiator is to open the petcock at the bottom driver side of it, and let it drain. If it drains slowly, it's clogged.
If the coolant isn't flushed & changed periodically, it can get 'dirty' and clog the radiator over time.
And if the radiator clutch is getting weak, Rock Auto has them too.

If you take care of this early enough, you may avoid much a more expensive and stressful transmission failure.

But make sure you replace the coolant with the right coolant, Pentosin or BWM.

Good luck, and WELCOME TO "THE FORUM"!!!:dance:
 

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Blue coolant is THE correct coolant. It's the BMW coolant for this engine, also available at Advance Discount Auto and Rock Auto as the Pentosin coolant prescribed for the 2003 - 2005 LR RR.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7668852&cc=1428072&jsn=363

Until the transmission expert weighs-in on the transmission performance, I agree that it sounds to me like the transmission cooling identified above, but it could be either (or both) the transmission cooler and/or the bottom few rows of the radiator itself, which is the part of the radiator that cools the transmission cooler.
Both of those are usually available on Rock Auto (Hella/Behr is the OEM brand). I've replaced the transmission cooler once and the radiator a couple of times in the 11 years I've had my 2003 RR, once after my transmission acted "cranky" once or twice, kind of like you describe.
At Rock Auto, the Behr/Hella radiator is $167.79.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+rover,2004,range+rover,4.4l+v8,1428072,cooling+system,radiator,2172

The Behr Hella transmission cooler is $79.99.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+rover,2004,range+rover,4.4l+v8,1428072,transmission-automatic,oil+cooler,2088


I've heard some say that the way to check the lower end of the radiator is to open the petcock at the bottom driver side of it, and let it drain. If it drains slowly, it's clogged.
If the coolant isn't flushed & changed periodically, it can get 'dirty' and clog the radiator over time.

But make sure you replace the coolant with the right coolant, Pentosin or BWM.

Good luck, and WELCOME TO "THE FORUM"!!![/:dance:QUOTE]

Thanks for the advice.

I have actually ordered the following:

Trans Cooler
Radiator
Transmission Filter, O-Ring, Pan, with an extra quart of Fluid
Oil Change Kit

At some point I won't be a Newbie anymore and my replies are going to show up. lol...

I love this Rig. Thanks for the welcome.
 

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...Transmission Filter, O-Ring, Pan, with an extra quart of Fluid
Oil Change Kit
Ahhyeah, about that transmission fluid filter...
One thing I seem to recall RRPhil be adamant about was using the Land Rover filter, not to use an aftermarket. And the same with the transmission fluid. Pentosin also makes the fluid, which can also be found under VW and Audi labels.

I admit that I had an Amsoil transmission fluid used to fill the 6HP28 that was just completely rebuilt along with the new torque converter (for my 2012), but that's after a complete rebuild with some aftermarket "upgrades" and all new everything.

Although the Amsoil Signature synthetic Multi-vehicle fluid includes LT 71141 in it's list of compatibles, I'm maintaining a wait-and-see perspective on it's performance over the long-term. But initial impressions are great. Very smooth shifts up & down and improved gas mileage so far.
But I digress...

For the 5HP24 in my 2003, I've always used the VW/Audi/Pentosin OEM fluids and Land Rover filters.
 

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Another situation i have been in before. My fill plug had a bolt welded into it and broke off when i tried to remove it. I'm assuming a shop did this after stripping it and they didn't bother replacing it. I had to drill it out and jb welded a torx socket into the hole. After 24 hours, the fill plug came out. I replaced it with a new fill plug.

Take a torx/allen bit that you don't care about throwing away and jb weld it into the fill plug. After a day, you should be able to remove it. Be sure to order a new one before you remove it.
 
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