Hi all. I apologize if this issue has been resolved on here, but I couldn't find. Yesterday the upper radiator hose blew off the water pump collar and lost most of coolant. I fixed the hose. Topped up coolant and drove for less than a minute and overheated up to red zone. Sat overnight. Topped up again today. Idled for 15 mins or longer with cap off and on with no overheating. Drove less than 30 seconds and immediately redlined. No leaks. Is this an air lock issue or thermostat? If thermostat, wouldn't it overheat while idling as well as driving? Dealership is 30 mins away, so would like to trouble shoot before heading to the bank to take out equity loan for dealer repairs.
Live update.Troubleshooting my issue now. Sitting in the car with heater on temperature gauge is normal. Heater is blowing heat. Although not too hot. Which is concerning. Going to open bleeder.
Bled the system for about a minute to two minutes. Temperature gage still normal at idling speed. Revved the engine a couple times 2000 RPM. Heat in the cabin is now hot. Now for the real test driving.
Drove the rover 2 miles with no issue then sudden spike in temperature gage to the red and lost all heat. Immediately pulled over burped system again with engine still running. Then shut it down continued to bleed then topped off. Idled through car wash with no issues. Then temperature gage slowly started rising while vacuuming rover. Shut it down again for 20 minutes. Drove car home 3 miles no issues. Sitting in driveway three minutes no issues. Revved engine to 3000 RPM for 30 seconds temperature gage slowly spiking towards rEd.
Summary. Upper hose blew off lost all coolant. Three days ago. Overheating since. Temperature gage normal while idling. Starts overheating when transmission engaged and driving. Under load. Loss of cabin heat when gauge is spiking. Does this sound like a faulty thermostat? Or ECU?
Re: 2004 HSE overheating after losing coolant only when driving
Indeed, after replacing radiator on my 2004 BMW V8, I also had the same issues and it took around 10 miles of driving (with gauge occasionally spiking into the red) until the system was fully free of air pockets. I had previously tried the described bleeding procedure as outline in RAVE many times but it was only upon driving the vehicle that the system cleared itself..
Just did my fourth bleed and top off. Coolant level has been full throughout the process. So we can rule out low coolant. When temperature starts spiking I lose cabin heat. Isn't that the thermostat shutting off flow? I will try an extended drive now.
Cabin heat always comes back as soon as temperature gage goes to normal after shutting vehicle down. In the process of my extended drive. Didn't get 1 mile when gauge spiked well into the red.
Re: 2004 HSE overheating after losing coolant only when driving
Yea... we got that. Unless you drove it for an extended period without coolant you most likely still have an air pocket. Sometimes they are just stubbourn about bleeding.
Drove another 2 miles temperature spiked into red. Coolant temperature warning came on again. The only change this time is the cabin heater stayed hot. Waiting for Gage to return to normal.
You read my mind. Sitting on a pretty steep incline at this moment. Just before parking on the incline I burped the system again. Then topped off.
Been sitting on this incline idling about five minutes with normal temperature until this very moment. Slowly starting to rise. Rrrrrr
Additionally, I think that I read this on another post but I could be wrong. She has been idling high since this happened around 900 RPM. Usually Not a problem except during very cold temperatures and believe it or not every time I take it out of the rover shop. I think I read somewhere that he software update is done in connection with cooling system repair then idle high.
Re: 2004 HSE overheating after losing coolant only when driving
Update: Issue not resolved. Burped system at least 10 times today, on an incline and on flat. Also let cool then idled with ET cap off until coolant rose to top of neck. Recapped then used bleeder. Thermostat is opening and closing (getting hot heat in cabin then not). Temp spikes to red at idle then drops back toward normal after revving to 2000 RPMs for 30 seconds or so, then starts slowly creeping back to red zone. Waiting for my guy at the dealership to call me for an appointment.
Yes. Thermostat was broke and stuck in open position.
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