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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
I've heard some bad thing about this code.

The range we are working on currently has 92300 miles

We've rebuilt the engine, and originally we had 2 codes, 1 was the O2 Sensor, so we replaced all 4, engine light is now clear.
However, when scanning with a OBD2, Currently getting a "pending trouble code P0011"
The engine light isn't on though, was wondering if you guys think this will pass smog since the engine light isn't on?

Timing valve solenoid was also replaced. The car runs smooth and quiet. I do not feel any hesitant or hear any weird noises.

It's just annoying that there is a "pending trouble code" it is the only thing that shows when scanning.

Will this eventually trigger the check engine?

Thank you
 

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Several things can set this code. First, a "pending" code simply means that the ECM is monitoring a situation potentially leading to a check engine light. Was the timing solenoid defective when you replaced it? If it was, the pending code may have been triggered by the defective solenoid. If that is the case, and the problem has been cleared, the CEL will never light. The ECM will simply monitor the situation, and if it sees no more issue, it will clear the pending code. For the experienced tech, P0011 is no nightmare. When was the oil last changed, and is the viscosity correct for the application? Excessive oil viscosity can advance the exhaust cam early, or keep the oil from draining from the phaser in a timely manner. That will also trigger a P0011. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply. Yes. The code ended up setting. I've tried erasing and it will come back as pending and then set again. Yes so even after replacing the timing solenoid, erasing, the issue code eventually shows up again after about a few miles of driving. The oil is brand new when the engine was rebuilt has maybe 20 miles on it from the test drives. I'm in Los Angeles and use Castrol EDGE 0W-40 for the oil.
 

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You have two potential issues: 1) Your timing is off and it is throwing the code Bank 1 intake camshaft timing is incorrect. Many possibilities here, but let us assume your camshaft timing is spot on. The cam and timing chains and blocks were properly set and perfect.

2) Your Bank 1 trigger wheel is not set correctly. This is a really common problem, especially with the Chinese timing tools OR b/c the upper timing gasket is not flush with the top of the cylinder head. This is why I recommend using the timing hole in the upper timing cover as a double check.

Were it me, been there done that, I would start by turning the trigger wheel a smidge clockwise. This is what worked for me. Pull Bank 1 valve cover, set it up for timing with the blocks on and then approach the trigger wheel. The reason for this step is you need to have a reference point and putting the blocks on will give you this point. Take out the upper cover timing check bolt (you do not need to take off upper cover, just the access bolt) and run a 5 or 6mm allen key into the hole and it should slide into the corresponding hole in the trigger wheel - straight shot. If it does not there is your problem. If it does go in correctly I would still move the wheel a smidge clockwise. Basically turn the trigger wheel clockwise so the allen key is 50/50 in/out of the trigger wheel hole. Hopefully this will be enough. If it is not do it again and move it the same amount. If this is also a fail, then turn it counter clockwise starting at 50/50.

This worked for me, once on Bank 1 and once on Bank 2 (two different engines). On the BMW forums I read that some have had to move it the other way - same amount but counter clockwise. You can use a sharpie to make some marks if you have to go back in again. I played the odds on mine and properly RTV'd the various spots, but if you are skeptical don't do that until you know you solved your issue. Of course this requires you to open it all back again, clean and RTV - but removing the RTV in my mind is the worse part of the job.

You can do all these adjustments without taking off the upper timing cover. Just hold the cams and get the right size spanner on the trigger wheel nut. You will have to torque by feel. Hopefully this works for you.

[NOTE: I double and triple checked on mine and everything was timed correctly, engine pinned, blocks perfectly flush, ... make sure you can say the same]
 

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So that little allen bolt on each side you are talking about on the upper timing cover is the "Upper Timing Check Bolt"? That hole should be a straight shot to the hole on the trigger wheel/plate? Interesting. I was wondering what that bolt was for.
Ok, I will check this. Yea I took it apart again, I found that the Vanos was not turn all the way counter-clockwise, and the pins on the bank 1 were not getting continuity. So I fixed that. Maybe that was triggering it? I was only getting P0011 and not the other bank. I've retimed everything. And I will use what you just stated to double check as well while I put everything back. I'm waiting for a valve cover nut to be shipped to me. It got stripped. I should have everything back up and running this coming weekend and will post an update. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright, just an update for anyone out there that needs it. First off, thanks all for the help and I hope this thread helps someone, feel free to message me.

I finally got to put the car back together. P0011 is successfully gone! I believe that it was the Vanos that was not fully rotated counter-clockwise on Bank 1. Following the timing instruction is pretty straight forward, if done correctly, all the cam blocks should be flush and locked, flywheel locked, vanos rotated counterclock wise then check for continuity is VERY important, get continuity on those pins, make sure chains are tight on both left and right side of bank 1 and 2 with the chain tensioner is pulled up! (use the tool), if it is not you will have to loosen the cam bolts and rotate accordingly to get it tight, then test again with the chain tensioner up and tight. Install the timing plate mounts accordingly. I'm happy to say my engine is now in timed and runs amazing.

I do have one more problem. I'm getting a P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire. However, it comes up as a pending code and then disappears. It never triggers the Check Engine light to stay on thought and happens randomly and intermittently. It will flash for maybe 10 seconds while I'm driving and disappear and won't come up for a while, then the check engine light will randomly start blinking again, it never makes it out of pending code though. Car seems to run fine and smooth. Could this be a coil issue? or spark plug?
 

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Glad you got it sorted. Setting the timing correct was #1 on my possibilities. I prefer to rotate counter-clockwise with a torque wrench rather than play with the continuity check system.

For your current code. Misfire on Bank 1 cylinder 4. First things to look for are the coil harness not being seated correctly (or any issues with the wire harness in that area), coil and then spark plug. Pull the access cover and swap coil 4 with 1 and see if it follows. If it stays on 4 then swap the spark plugs and check the same. Report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update

I've swapped 3 and 4 ignition coils, drove around and now received a P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire, so I will be replacing the coil this Monday.
Will update again and let you know if this fixes it.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so. After changing the coil. Misfire is now gone! Everything's looking good.

I took the car for a nice test drive so I can get it ready for smog, drove about 50 miles and now received a P1170 code, I've looked it up and people seem to be saying its O2 Sensor, but I replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
 

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Check for air leaks as you been working on the car. Make sure all hoses look good and all clamps are fitted and tightened correctly. Check your air filter and clean your MAF. Most likely an air leak.

If you have a scanner that can read fuel trims that would help determine if you have an air leak. Also you can check the behavior of your O2 sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so, it looked like my O2 sensor pre-cat on the Bank 1 was loose so I retighten it. Then I saw that I had forgotten to tight the intake where it connect to the throttle body, so I did that.
I did look around the cat also to see if there were cracks around the weld that people were saying was a common issue, but I didn't see anything visually. There only 93000 miles on the car, not sure if the weld spots would
fail that quick.

I may have to try a smoke test, just to know for sure.

Reset the code, took the car for a nice drive about 50 miles where I saw P1170, then drove about another 15 miles and then received P1173. So, seems like the same code for both banks.

I'm not so familiar with fuel trim, I know it really good knowledge to know for diagnostics, but here is what I've got. I took this screen shot about 5 minutes after P1170 appeared.

IMG_0035.jpg IMG_0031.jpg IMG_0032.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's possible that theres some air leaking? or entering the system? Does anyone know some common places to do a smoke test on? I'll be doing a smoke test on the exhaust through the back to see if the cats are leaking anywhere. Are there any other possible places I should put the smoke through?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hmm, I did some more testing at different RPM and didn't seem to find any huge changes, 1 minute idle, 1 minute increase rpm, 1 minute idle. Also, I have photo of Freeze frame of the P1170

IMG_0092.jpg IMG_0086.jpg
 
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