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Discussion Starter #1
Today, after sitting outside for 8 hours, the rear of the Rover is completely deflated. It was -10 degrees yesterday with no problems and the same temperature today. Now, I have it in a heated garage. The Air Suspension Inactive is displayed on the dash. The full right and full left wheel lock will not clear it. I have read all the threads here and have found some pretty good descriptions of the system on this website and elsewhere on the Internet. What I don't know is where to start. Do I need a code reader to better pin point the problem and clear the code? Will a code reading that the auto parts stores do for free work on this system? If not, what would be a good one to purchase? I can't check for leaks as I do not believe the air compressor is active when the Air Suspension Inactive warning is illuminated. - Is this correct? Also, since it is the entire rear that has dropped, does this indicate anything? Thanks and sorry to start another air suspension thread. I wish there was a document on step-by-step of how to diagnose the system.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Without the correct reader, you are guessing, period.
You could try to do the following though.
Open the hood with the doors all unlocked and a window rolled half way down (call me paranoid), walk away and get a hot coffee.
After a cuppa, go back an disconnect the negative battery terminal, 10mm socket, then go warm up again.
After a spell, reconnect the negative.
Start it up and do the steering wheel deal again.
If that doesn't work, you need software to read the codes.

Martin
 

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A normal OBD reader does not access the air suspension. The most common aftermarket RR reader is "All Coms", and runs about $200 with the adapter to plug it into your laptop and the OBD port on the car. If you plan to work on your RR yourself, this program is absolutely indespensible, as many codes, like the air suspension, ABS, Air bags,etc., will not clear by pulling the battery or with OBD2 readers.

So, the first step is to read the problem, and normally best to clear it. At least HALF of RR issues will clear and go away forever. If they come back and have the same code, then take action to repair/replace the item it faults.

In all likelihood, this is a rear bag problem. Even if it is, you will need All Coms to clear it once fixed.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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John, unlike the P38's that can go into a hard fault, it's been my experience that the MkIII doesn't do the same.
So fix a problem and it goes through it's self check at power up, and if its happy its happy. Same as the AC on the P38's....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. OK, I have a parts Rover. I have no idea if the rear bags are good or bad. I suppose I could swap one or both in and try it out...are presumably the code would go away if that fixed the problem. Or, I could just buy the $200 All Coms and start with that. On the fence right now....

Some more information: The right rear is lower than the left rear but they are both really low. I get no lights from the indicator up/down control switch. I tried disconnecting the battery but it didn't work.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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It's to the point of reading a code then
A bad bag will never throw a code itself. There are zero sensors at any airbag. It could however burn up a compressor trying to keep up with a leak etc.
Really cold temps play havoc on any air system, so I wouldn't be overly concerned at high dollar items.
I thought you were the other guy in Mn with a non running Rover, so my bad.
I'd be more tempted to swap the compressor than an airbag, to see if that fixes anything.
Is the compressor turning on at all?

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Martin,

The compressor is not turning on at all. The parts Rover compressor was removed prior to me getting it. Is there a way to test the compressor off a independent 12V supply? If not, I guess I'll order a AllComms and wait. Thanks.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Yes you can jump the compressor, as well as test for voltage at the plug.
Here is the diagram

compressor.gif

If the ECM is pissed though, no telling what the fault is. You can try to unplug it and air the system up some, then see what happens I guess
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Martin,

I'll try airing up the system with my compressor and reading and/or supplying power at the compressor as well. It is good to know that if I fix the system I don't have to clear the code as it will go away on its own. I am not opposed to buying the code tool but I have a long weekend and some spare time now to work on it. Thanks.
 

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With the negative temps I've been having to reset mine daily. I know its not the best solution, but it has to do for now. If you lived a little closer id come over with my scanner and read the code for you and try resetting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Rosrooster,

So you reset yours each day and it is good to go but only for one day? You don't get any codes or have leaking parts, you don't think? It is just the cold weather? Interesting. Well, mine is sitting in a 70 degree garage but won't self-correct/clear the code so I am guessing I have something going on. I'm going out there now and will try airing it up with my compressor and I'm going to test the Rover compressor to see if it is dead. BTW, I'm in Isanti/East Bethel area...not as far as Minneapolis but still a ways from Brainerd. Thanks. BTW, what scanner do you own?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:

fuse 57 and 88 are good. I tried putting 150 psi of externally supplied air into the system but it seemed like it took very little if any and did not raise the Rover nor did I hear any leaking air. The compressor works when an external 12V are supplied to it on the work bench. There is no power at the air compressor wire harness with the key off or with the engine running. There is also no power at the air suspension contactor. Not sure what to do next. What would cause it not to send power to the contactor and then on to the compressor? Is that because it is in air suspension inactive mode? but...that doesn't make sense if it truly 'self-diagnoses' and 'tries' the system out each time it is started.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was just thinking, if it won't take air, there must be some kind of blockage somewhere. It cant be something frozen as it has been in 60- 70 degrees the last 24 hours. What in the system might cause an air blockage?
 

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They don't like working without the computer clear of faults. I use something called PA Soft 1.4 meant for BMWs, the 02-05 L322s are on par EAS wise with an E53 X5.

It's about $25 and it will clear the hard fault, chances are it'll be fine after you clear it and do whatever repair is needed.
 

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Its not every day that I have to clear mine. Only when it's really cold. If these systems are like the lincoln navigators, there is an air solenoid for each bag that also has to be opened to allow the air in. My codes were something about static pressure or something similar. Ill be in braham next weekend for a basketball tourney I could bring my scan tool with
 

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It wont take the external air supply because the air suspension system has valves at each 4 bags and more valves around the air tank I believe. All electronic so it closes and opens them accordingly. A hard fault will most likely make the system close the air supply to a bag or to the air tank and shut the compressor from supplying air which in this case would be to leave it off. Agreed that the reading and resetting the faults should be the first order of business. Then go on depending on what fault needs correction.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Dont look too hard at it not taking air when you supply shop air to the compressor line that is in the trunk area.
I think its time to read the codes, write them down, and clear them.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you all for your help. I even had a couple offers from people offering to loan me their scanners - that was very nice. I have decided to buy my own scanner - I am going to get one that will work on my Rover and it will also work on another vehicle I own - so it made it a little easier to justify. Once I have it, I will post back my results. Thanks.
 

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The best spent money on these cars is the All Coms interface. If you plan on keeping it for more than a year, it will pay off with dealer charges many times over for reading the codes. Rarely does 6 months go by that I don't have to use the All Coms. Many times it is simply to clear a spurious fault...but without it it would be $150 a pop at the dealer.

PS...I've been staying out while you trouble shot...but until you read the codes with All Coms you are really just spinning your wheels.

Truckin'...I guess I have bad luck, but I have had several hard faults on my air suspension which would not clear except with all-coms. Granted, they usually envolved other systems, such as ABS or DSC...but the only cockpit message was the "air suspension inactive".

Just a note from experience. If you are having to clear a suspension fault daily, you are most likely trying to extend replacing a bad air bag...but your're killing your $350 compressor in doing it. Trying to extend using a bad bag is just costing you double the money down the road.
 
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