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I finally managed to replace the 2 brake lines that feed the rear wheels. There is a junction block at the rear front well and under the front fender liner so I removed that to ease the disassembly. There are 2 plastic covers that protect the brake lines to the rear and are between the rocker and the frame. Awkward to come out as they most likely have never come out. Some pieces do not come apart well.
Tools are 8, 10, 11mm sockets and a 15mm and 11mm wrench to undo the brake lines. 11mm deep socket or box wrench to undo rear bleeders. New brake lines from dealer were under $60 can. from the dealer. (2 lines at approx. 6 and 8 feet long.) Ends not protected so double check threads on fittings before leaving dealer. One of mine had been dragged on concrete for quite a while (I think) and very annoying to find it while under the truck with temps in the 20's. The actual connection points were relatively free of rust but I sprayed them first. They came apart well with an open end wrench but really recommend an 11mm tube wrench. I measured the lines .1895 so really close to 3/16. The clips that hold the lines were reusable in all cases but one so I used a zip tie to keep one of the lines in place there. Also of note is that the ABS fuel tank cover on the drivers side came off without the car being on a hoist but it took some doing and cursing. As a sidenote some oversize flat washers may be required to secure the exhaust heat shields in the area of the fuel tank shroud as the aluminum oxidizes badly and the holes get rather large. (will not be able to secure with existing bolts only.) The shorter line feeds in from rear to front, long one the same and it will feed over the diff to its connection point surprisingly. Leave loose until fittings have been threaded. Take your time so no cross threading. Then clip in and bend a bit as necessary to fit into isolation clips. I have bled the lines but have not driven to test yet. Fluid has moved thru the lines. Load reservoir with dot 4 so you do not run out. I am sure on a hoist its would be quicker but I did it on our gravel drive with range in offroad height setting and blocking. I did remove rear wheel well liner and rear wheel near the end of this ordeal but always prefer to eliminate chance of getting crushed underneath so keep it blocked or on ramps. Not a job for the faint hearted and certainly would be better to do in 70 F weather and not 30F weather. I removed shrouds in one go and did the lines in the next round and final button up in the third go. Wheel well liners can be a bit of a beast. Not sure of the shop time on this but the reality is that by now most of the other lines should also be inspected and likely changed if your beast lives in a rust zone. I hope this helps someone contemplating the task when the brake fluid warning message shows on the dash or preferably before that time. Now to find out why the check headlamp warning is coming up when the lights seem to all work as they should.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You don't have to pull the tank, just the ABS/Fiberglass cover under the tank on the left side of the truck. It's held in by 5 or 6 15mm (I think) bolts then it just lowers down and you can pull it out from under the truck if its in off-road, or extended mode. Probably weighs about 15 pounds. The brak lines pass under the very back left corner of the cover, just enough so you can't pull them down without taking the cover off. I did mine last fall for a break in the line right at the front edge of the rear wheel well where there is a pair of 90 degree bends in the line. Both lines just rotted out right there, as those plastic covers and the gas tank cover collect road sand and salt over time. That combined with the stress in the lines caused by the bends caused the lines to rupture while I was hauling a trailer..
 
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