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Hi all, newly registered on here but been reading posts for a while.

Hoping someone can give me some advise - I have searched all the threads and can't seem to find any posts that have the same problem as mine..

My 4.4 RR has just started to go into "Trans Failsafe".. This only happens when started first thing in the morning, when I put into drive and moved forwards, if I restart the car after 5-10 mins its fine and shifts normally?

I have read the codes with my Delphi scanner and get "Speed Signal Turbine Sensor - Plausibility - Intermittent" but from what I have read the actual sensors rarely fail? Anything I should be checking before replacing the sensor please?

Thanks in advance!
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, tried to start in neutral this morning but did the same thing.. Will check the battery tomorrow.
 

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It is unusual for the sensors to fail. Certainly more likely to be the battery or inhibitor switch playing up. However, if the P0715/6 error code keeps reoccurring then it may be worth checking that the screw for the retaining plate is secure.



You could just swap the front (turbine/input shaft) and rear (output shaft) sensors around – they are identical - and see if the problem moves with it.



I have loads of sensors lying around if you need one



Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input Phil, I tested the voltage on the battery this morning, 11.89V cold and 14.10V when started and idling so guess this is OK?

I suppose if I have to drop the gearbox pan and drain I may as well change the sensor for a known good one? How much do you want for one of yours delivered please?

Thanks, Neil
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have just noticed something that may be related? When I first turn the key "HDC Inactive" flashes on the screen for a split second?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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When you get the Failsafe warning does it still allow you to shift in gears higher than 3rd?

The code on my 03 jumped on twice last week and limited me to the first three gears. It also said something about Neutral lock or something, if I stopped at a light it was sluggish starting off again. This only happened once and that was in the morning.

I figured its was time to trade this thing in for something newer with warranty (09 perhaps). However, it this isn't a kiss of death then I'd hold onto 'ol girl a little longer. She still rides great.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

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I had a similar issue. When cold start after sitting all night. Reverse worked fine and the R in the dash lit up but as soon as you put it in D the D on the dash would disappear and trans fail safe msg with a bong would come up

Then drive it around in 3rd, when the temp gauge moved to normal at the 12o clock position. Switch it off, take out the key and then restart it, everything would be fine and the PRND would light up again the dash too. Then if you could drive it normally the whole day unless you parked long enough usually 4 -5 hours for it to get "cold" again.

Replace the xyz or PRND switch on the transmission with a used one since new are so darn pricey an duts been fine even since. Was a fairly easy job from the tranny side. But disconnecting the multiple with is held in with a small bolt beneath the PVC valve between the engine and firewall was a super duper pain the @$$. You can see the bolt and there are heater pipes above it and its in sorta recessed in. So with a tiny rachet with a tiny extension lying on top of the motor and working purely by feel even after taping in the extension and socket praying the rachet doesn't fall in the gap. Took me better part of a morning just to get that one sucker out.

Decided not to put the plug connecter in its original place and just wire tied it in its approximate position incase I ever have to do this again

Moral of the story is. It's your XYZ switch.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Cheers Desertdude, that sounds exactly the same issue as I have.. Going on eBay now to find one of these XYZ things!
 

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They are stupidly expensive so best to ensure it is this before buying one. When I took mine off, I was able to drill out the pins holding the two panels together and then clean up the connections and lubricate with electrical grease. The two panels were then reconnected using small bolts/nuts but ground down to make them flush with the panel. Another cheaper option is to buy the BMW once and graft in an extension cable..Good luck..
 

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Some more info on the switch by RRphil over hear also google BMW forums there is a good detailed thread on how to "repair" these. I don't understand is why they are so expensive. Also more food for thought you might want to try the BMW route for a cheaper switch. The wire is longer on the L322 because the where the plug located and bolted on to the motor beneath the PVC diaphragm case. But the the socket where it connects to is pretty long and has enough give to reach almost down to where the switch is located. How do I know this. Because when I changed mine someone had already been there and didn't bother to bolt back the plug and tucked in away close to the switch itself. So with a little rerouting you could make a BMW switch work easily. Hope that makes sense.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/23342-misc-transmission-errors-issues-5.html#post253892
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi All, Well I replaced the XYZ switch today and..... It's still the same :sad: Guess next step is to replace the speed sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Phil,<br><br>Can't find a way of private messaging on here but would like to buy one of those sensors off you if possible?<br><br>Cheers, Neil
 
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