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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2004 Range and I blew the water pump, fixed that with a re and re turned out great! <br>
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Then I fired it up before filling with coolant to ensure the belts were nice and inline, 30 seconds.<br>
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Then I added my coolant and after about 1 jug it began slowing up and I released bleeder valve beside main fill cap, still slow so I figured I start it for 2 minutes and gets some bubbles flying while watching temps, going back and forth adding bits at a time.<br>
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As the temp began to slowly rise I turned it off for awhile still adding small ammts of coolant. <br>
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Now it gets interesting...<br>
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I go to start it after an hour atleast has passed and she just engages starter trying to crank (sound = "Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee") I try it again "Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee" nothing wtf?<br>
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I get out scratch my head and go back to letting her rest while adding antifreeze slowly.<br>
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Currently im at 1 jug concentrate and 1 jug water mix of coolant added.<br>
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Then I try again she gives a small cough and "Knee Knee Knee" bam she fires and all is well, so I smile a bit but quickly turn off after 30 seconds as it does nothing to the speed of intake of coolant.<br>
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I leave her alone to rest again and go back to add coolant hours later, this time she is taking it nice and fast so I smile thinking were getting somewhere. Until I go have a peek underneath the vehicle.<br>
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Its raining coolant all down the back of engine and over bell housing, so I head inside for the night assuming I have a hose off or something to fix in the morning.<br>
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Well its morning and I crawl under, while wife pours more coolant in, it begins to rain coolant all over a 1 ft span of the back of the engine from above, but whats got me is this FACT below<br>
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FACT<br>
I dried it up and pulled the square rubber cap from bottom of bell housing and again got wife to pour 1 cup of coolant in slowly, not only does it rain but it also comes out the bottom of the bell housing. NO not from around it, WITHIN it!<br>
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From the 1 cup, approx 1/4 comes from within bell housing, the remaining 3/4 cup from above bell housing behind engine.<br>
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Whats your guys take on this?
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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it sounds like the short hose has failed at the water bridge,
and or one of the cooling tubes that comes from the water pump has fallen out of the rear water bridge
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So basically take the water pump back off and re sit the cooling tubes? Or is there a easier way to tell ?
I am leaning towards that being the problem as its where was working and would just make sense , do you think this would cause the starting problems or is this going to be a seperate problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went and took the pollen filter off to gain access to the rear top of the engine, inspected the short hose and all is well there. I had wife pour water in the tank and watched it stream out a small hole on top of the bell housing directly beneath the short hose, and its gushing harder from just above it, I cannot see from where though. Figuring a way to add a video online that shows MORE than I could actually see.
 

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It is physically impossible for a head gasket to fail to atmosphere and spill water that fast by simple gravity. You need to look elsewhere at the maze of hoses and where it is actually coming from for a start. If it truly is leaking out of your bell housing the it would most likely be a failed cooling plate. You have only two options in that case. A: pull the transmission and have very limited access to clean surfaces and make the repair. B: pull the engine to make the repair and address any other issues, handle hard to reach maintenance items and clean everything up. If indeed it is a cooling plate fail it is a pretty serious hint that the cooling system has been neglected. You will want to carefully check the rest of the cooling system or risk another failure down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Heres a video showing it raining beneath the truck, wife was pouring pretty heavy and thus the gravity was really raining down. However it does stream out the bottom bell housing aswell around it.

https://youtu.be/KUQYPS4ql-A
 

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since the last work completed was a water pump and the tubes are easily moved when swapping in a new water pump,
thats where I would begin.
Also its possible the valley pan seal has failed
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The tubes came out when I was doing the water pump repair and thus I made sure to put them back into the holes. As for the valley pan gaskets, they were recently done so I doubt thats the problem.
Do you know if there is a rubber seal surrounding where each tube pushes into the back? I ask this because when I do a little poke and wiggle the tubes look properly seated yet definitely seem like the most likely suspect.
 

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each of the tubes has a O ring seal,
its possible you cut one of the O rings
 

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Well I removed the water pump again, and lone behold the smaller coolant pipe was not seated in the hole. Just so happens there is a "corner" beside the bigger pipe that allows the smaller to look feel and fit almost properly. Thank you all for your help and advice!

I also wanted to say that theres a special tool you need to remove the pulley in some cases when the fan nut wont crack. I went to princess auto and got a universal pulley removal tool. Basically a flat bar with a toothed belt you wrap around the pulley and slip within the flat bar. Tourque it and remove your pulley

 

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Nice to hear it wasn't a head gasket....

Rover ownership is about expecting the absolute worst in any failure but hoping for the easy fix... I have found over my years of dealing with British cars that it is rarely the first and usually something stupid and simple in the easy fix category. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Agreed I enjoy the easy fix category, yet even with the category of "easy" I managed to do it the hard way. I feel alot more familiar under the hood though so still on high ground.

Bad news..!

In the beginning of my thread I talked about my ranges inability to catch whilst the starter and battery go nice and strong "Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee", there seems to be a slight catch like this "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee" "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". I quickly thought fuel supply and thus checked for pressure at the top rails via the bleeder screw thing. I depress and gas spits out for a sec or two than loses its flow. So I go back in and giver another try "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee"PAUSE"Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". I go back to top rail and again it spits fuel upon depressing then losing prime couple secs later.

Cam shaft position sensor test?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
2004 Range Rover 4.4 Starter and Battery Strong Wont Catch

I had water pump issues and solved that, but while I did that I managed to soak the rear of my engine and the inside of my bell housing. Please refer to my other post about the water pump to fully understand and note that in the end I had a cooling tube not installed correctly thus it rained all over heres a video https://youtu.be/KUQYPS4ql-A

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...74-2004-4-4-leaking-coolant-bell-housing.html

In the beginning of my thread I talked about my ranges inability to catch whilst the starter and battery go nice and strong "Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee", there seems to be a slight catch like this "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee" "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". I quickly thought fuel supply and thus checked for pressure at the top rails via the bleeder screw thing. I depress and gas spits out for a sec or two than loses its flow. So I go back in and giver another try "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee"Pits just not the immobilizer like im sure AUSE"Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". I go back to top rail and again it spits fuel upon depressing then losing prime couple secs later.

Current temps are below freezing -15
This morning after a rest of 12 hrs or more, I tried again, same "Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee Knee", there seems to be a slight catch like this "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee" "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". EXCEPT this time I walked towards the rear right after and I could smell exhaust mixed with gas fumes so I mean that's combustion right?

I feel like its flooded yet I never touched the pedal..
Cam shaft position sensor test?
Did I manage to some how soak in antifreeze the cam shaft sensor and mess it up?

Never a concern starting this beauty only while and after water pump mess does she do this no starting stunt so clearly some how related.


 

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Re: 2004 Range Rover 4.4 Starter and Battery Strong Wont Cat

until you get a response from someone with more experienced, I'll offer a suggestion..... is it possible that one or more cylinders got filled with coolant when it was leaking from the rear of the engine? Take your plugs out and crank the engine to see if it spits coolant.

I have a side question for you, should the two aluminum pipes be even with each other where they go into the water pump. My pump is off and the larger pipe appears longer at the front of the engine than the smaller diameter pipe. Was wondering if I pulled it out partially when removing the pump to do the chains.

Good luck.

Ignore my question, I checked the new water pump and the two pipes are offset where they enter the pump, so hence they need to be different lengths.

Again, good luck. I hope you get it resolved soon. I know it's no fun working in the cold. I've been working in my garage on Long Island in mid 20's *F temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: 2004 Range Rover 4.4 Starter and Battery Strong Wont Cat

Pulled plugs all was well no coolant and realativly no carbon build up. Tested for spark and I got spark.
Pulled Crank Position Sensor, and added a new one.
Still not starting, trys "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee""Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". But not starting help me please!
 

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Re: 2004 Range Rover 4.4 Starter and Battery Strong Wont Cat

Pulled plugs all was well no coolant and realativly no carbon build up. Tested for spark and I got spark.
Pulled Crank Position Sensor, and added a new one.
Still not starting, trys "Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee""Knee Knee Knee Knee phck Knee Knee". But not starting help me please!
Well I mean if your CPS is good and your coils/sparks are good, then there can be a few reasons why your engine won't start...or even fire. Your engine isn't getting any gas or something is up with an ECU relay.

I know you said you test the gas line, but did you actually measure fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I called a bmw mechanic to help and they declined to accept my vehicle. So that being said I shall continue.
How would one test an ecu and fuel pressure? Will google but if you guys have a simpler method of sorts for this l322?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I have a pattern of the no start issue..

1)Sits for 12hrs then I start it up, on the first attempt it starts like one would want. Then it dies as if starved out of gas.
2)So 12 hrs later I try her again same results, except this time I accelerate keeping rpms up above 2500-3500, as soon as I stop she dies and fails to start again until 12hrs.
4)So 12 hrs later I try her again same results, except this time I accelerate keeping rpms up above 2500-3500, as soon as I stop she dies and fails to start again until 12hrs.
5)So 12 hrs later I try her again same results, except this time I accelerate keeping rpms up above 2500-3500, as soon as I stop she dies and fails to start again now I get wife try to do a start while I depressed the Schrader valve, GAS AND LOTS OF IT flys 2 feet across the engine strong as ever so I stop depressing and have her retry again and no catching just a starter and battery going strong. I depress again and GAS AND LOTS OF IT flys 2 feet across the engine strong as ever so I stop depressing.
6) I scratch my head and think about how to diagnose an ecu relay?
 

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did you get a factory CPS or a cheaper aftermarket brand
 
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