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Discussion Starter #1
Hi...
Car had had no issues at all..... Filled up with fuel 3 days ago and driven 200kms... All of a sudden she stalled at traffic lights...... Never done that b4.. So, restart the engine and drive 50 meters and stalls again...
This time she won't restart......kicks over but feels like fuel starvation.....
How can I check easily if I have fuel flow? Could it be the fuel pump deciding it was time?
It it an easy fix ? Any comments, advice and even abuse would be greatly appreciated.....
Cheers
Aussie Rob....:shock:
 

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what i have seen done is a shot of spray start to the intake (ether) and if it fires then likely a fuelling issue. Ether is hard on an engine so be careful if you try that. (do not over do it). If you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from a supply house and connect it to the schraeder valve you will see if any fuel there and at what pressure. if you crack the valve some fuel may shoot out so have a rag available. Listen for the sound of the pump. There are videos on checking the circuits that run the fuel pump. there are lots of posts on other reasons for a no start so read things on here, make a list and go through it. If engine light on there may be some helpful codes to assess. So a repeat. Remove top eng cover. Depress scraeder valve on fuel rail but keep a rag over it. If a good shot then likely not fuel. to check, crank engine and depress valve, see what you get. The fuel pump will not run continuously if engine is not running as it clicks off when up to pressure. Let us know what you find. I changed our pump at 230 kms-it was still working but was making a lot of noise. Fwiw popular opinion from a place here suggests the pump rarely fails so you may also consider the fuel filter and change it out. The quick connects can be difficult to remove so also read up on procedures if you decide to change the filter. The filter has an internal fuel pressure regulator so that is why it is expensive (in case you were wondering $100 can for us). I have never read of a failure of the regulator on here but if you change the filter that should remove that issue from the equation.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, THank you for your reply.
I didn't get a notice of your response so I just re asked the same question.
There is no pressure at all at the small valve at the engine.
No noise when I sent power direct to the pump.
Im in the process to removing the pump but suck on separating the fuel line from the pump assembly.
Cheers
Rob
 

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Those connections can be a beast but do not force them. You have to be able to push down on the fitting and it should move about 1/16 of an inch or so. So work it up and down until you see it moving nicely. Then you either pinch the lower ring portion and pull up while pushing the line from the top. At some point it should magically separate and will come up. The pushing down motion spreads the internal nibs in the fitting to release from the stub of the fuel pump assembly. Some on here have used a fork device to do the pulling up portion by sliding in a U shaped piece of metal under the connector. If perchance there is fuel pressure in the assembly (there was once for me) it made the release very difficult and fuel was pushing out so push on the schrader valve first just in case. There should also be a kit available from a parts store that has the removal tool to assist you. The fuel filter hose connectors can also be stiff due to grime in the connection so may need some flushing with a light lubricant as you push and release on the connector. A search on here should show a cross section of the fitting. keep us posted as many have been down the same unhappy road. note that when you go to pull the pump assembly, after unblocking the crossover hose connection it is best to reach in from the access bung and pull the connection straight off. this will definitely save you grief and is quite doable if your fuel tank is in the 1/4 range. The last point that bears repeating is to use a 360 degree clamp on the fuel pump hose (not gear type) or the connection will not seal properly.









just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi again and thank you......
so pressinging down on the hoes while squeezing the red base if fine.... but then i start pulling it back up up via the black fuel line or is this where you mention to use a fork to lift up the unit under the red band ?

I got one off today...... completely lost the plot and temper... ( old Hungarian issue ) cut off the the red plastic band , used a large multi grip and ripped it off........ well, its off now. Sadly spending 4 days working half balancing across the back seat door and my wheel chair eventually got to me..... The fumes from the fuel was also giving me a headache....... considering the amount the car is insured for, it was very fortunate that I gave up smoking.
From what I can see, the fuel line with the removed red band should still hold fine... I will attach a small stainless hoes clamp to secure it... Lets hope I can get the second one off....
As for removing the 2 lower power clips...... Due to my phsyical constraints and the fact the fuel tank is 80%full, i cannot reach through from the other access port.... can the removal of the lower connectors be done from the fuel pump ?

Wife asked me yesterday why i am doing the repair work considering funds are not a major issue.... my reply " How hard can it be " ???
I will be slapping myself for years to come.

Cheers

AussieRob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, Thats it.,..... im getting a Skoda !!!!!!!!!!

This fuel pump is going to drive me mad..... I eventually removed the 2 fuel clip off the top of the pump assembly.
Unfortunately nothing I would release the 2 fuel lines.....
I had to cut off the red lower plastic bands and manually use pin pliers to release the lines....
I expect that will now get a few unhappy comments.....

I am unsure if they are now buggered or if it will still seal up with a pair of loc ties to secure them.... time will tell......
It gets worse.))))
finally removed the unit and disassembled the fuel pump unit.
Removed the electric pump , cleaned up all the parts.... an old habbit and thought i mighht tst the electirc pump....
Well blow me down and stuff a chicken feather up my bumb..... The pump started pumping with huge amounts of pressure !!!
What little fuel was leftin the pump ended up all over the roof of our laundry....... Still have not told the wife yet (((((((
So, the question is...... WTF !~!!!!!
I did test the power at the rear right quarter as shown and there was power......
I did not check if there was power at the top of the fuel pump wiring socket.......

So, do pumps stop and start and then slowly die over time or do they just stop working never to pump again ??????

My question now is, do I still go and spend a fortune on a new replacement pump or accept the fact it works fine and look for another issue......

Also, read that it is vital I use a SHARKBITE CLAMP to reattached the black hose to the pump... Ive never seen them b4, are they easy to find and use ?

Cheers
ROB
 

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I think you have created some difficult connection issues with the pump hoses as if the rings are missing you may have a hard time disconnecting if you have to do it again. Probably a good idea to put a fuel pressure gauge on the pump and pressure up in your test lab-I tested mine outdoors. It should be around 50 psi. and it should hold as there is a check valve on the output side of the pump. If you remove the hose to the actual end of the pump you should use the proper 360 type replacement clamp-oetiker type single ear clamp. Our oem clamp said 11.3mm on it. for test purposes i used some flex fuel injection hose which is flexible so a simpler 360 degree screw type clamp will work for a simple connection to a fuel pressure gauge if you decide to go that route. Note that testing for the pump running in place I found that it comes on and once it pressures up it shuts off if engine is not running. This is with the key in position 2 although rave says the pump will come on with pos. 1 of the key. good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello all.......
why do I have a second float sensor unit floating on the top of the second access port ?
It is attached to the cross over pipes .. I assume it is suppose to clip in somewhere on the left side tank ?
any ideas >>>>
Thanks
Rob
 

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Thats a good question but I suspect it is because of the nature of the fuel tank being a saddle type. It does clip in but there is also a float iirc. Of interest is the fact that the bung side of the tank basically gets pumped dry when the fuel level drops below the ridge in the 2 tanks. if you look on the internet for the full replacement pump you will get a better idea what the assembly looks like. hows it going with your issues?
 

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Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hello all.......
why do I have a second float sensor unit floating on the top of the second access port ?
It is attached to the cross over pipes .. I assume it is suppose to clip in somewhere on the left side tank ?
any ideas >>>>
Thanks
Rob
I hope you can make it out from this photo.


20150423_152557 (Large).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for that.... I too found that photo...ITs easy once you know how.....

Well, it all back together and running.... Yipee

BUT.... it started stalling again...

Can the pump intermitedly just to stop and start ?

I didnt replace the pump since when I tested it out of the car it worked fine.....

Worked well for the first 5 kms then it started the same stalling process...

So im guessing it will need a new pump ???

It almost feels like an electrical problem.... works fine then stops..

If I do need a new fuel pump .... best place to get one ????

Cheers
Rob
 

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Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Yes these pumps can become intermittent and quite often will run again if you give the bottom of the tank a good clout. Invariably they test ok when taken out which makes one think that there is another issue.

There is a tank protector which makes hitting the actual tank a problem but anything is possible with a big enough hammer ;-)
 

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I would wire a test lamp to the fuel pump circuit to see if its losing power when the truck stalls,
that way you will know that the pump is bad or the power supply is faulty
 
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