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LEGACY VENDOR
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Those kits are not genuine ZF parts. I have no experience of using them so I can’t say one way or the other how satisfactory they are. This is the genuine ZF overhaul kit (1058 298 022):





It doesn’t include friction or steel plates but usually that isn’t a problem. The failsafe trigger on the 5HP24 is set to be so sensitive that any sign of unplanned clutch slip throws it immediately into failsafe mode. Consequently, the plates just don’t wear. I commonly measure friction plates from a 5HP24 that has 150,000 or 200,000 miles on it and the plate thickness is identical to brand new plates.



You may need plates for (say) just one clutch, if there’s been a particular problem, but it’s cheaper to buy these separately rather than buy a kit with all six clutch packs in it (frictions and steels).

You don’t need the F-brake piston because all the L322 5HP24s were fitted with the later 0501 212 967 piston.



The ZF kit doesn’t come with a filter, but the non-OE kits never come with a genuine IBS Filtran filter, anyway.



The only things missing from the ZF overhaul kit are the O-ring for the park lock gear on the output shaft (identical in size to the filter O-ring) and the output shaft lip seal which is smaller than the RWD & E53 one included in the kit. These parts are unique to the 032 model for the L322 and can be purchased separately from either ZF or Land Rover.



This is the official repair manual, in case it’s helpful : http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/ZF 5HP24 1 Repair Manual.pdf



Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Thanks for the write up Phil, lots of useful info there, the kits you posted cost significantly less than what I was looking at. I will be getting the transfer box motor back soon, will test the high/low gear function and drive the vehicle around a bit to see if the failsafe comes up again. really hoping its not the trans but I guess we will find out. keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
alright so I got the transfer box motor back, Xemodex did in fact find an issue with potentiometer, it has been repaired, swapped it on. for the first time I am actually able to switch from high range to low range and back. this function never worked before.

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Successfully shifted to low range and back twice...
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drove about 4 miles and the failsafe message is back.

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Once again the vehicle is in 4th gear.

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next I will try swapping the TCU if that doesn't solve it looks like I will have to find a new transmission...
287561
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
If you are sure it is stuck in 3rd gear during failsafe, i would suggest the transmission oil cooler is blocked on coolant side or bottom of radiator which cools the transmission oil is clogged. I had that same issue a several years ago. The previous owner put stop leak in and it started to gunk up the coolant side of the oil cooler. Failsafe mode in 3rd is the transmission computer keeping the revs up so the transmission oil pump can pump more fluid to cool it down, IIRC. I replaced the oil cooler and all was well. I ended up replacing the radiator shortly after that during a water pump replacement.

If it goes into 5th gear during failsafe, it is most likely the axial bearing and o ring failure mentioned above by RRPhil. I too had that happen to me 2 years ago.

Ryan
its definitely in 4th gear... 3rd would mean cooling problem, and 5th would mean axial bearing and O-Ring...
its not battery or alternator, had the local shop run a diagnostic test on both.....and its not the neural position switch because i replaced that, I am not getting the transaxle error or trouble displaying the gear positions... I took the transmission control module out, and cleaned all the pins and connectors, the unit itself looks to be in good shape, almost brand new actually, maybe the previous owner had this replaced, but not programmed ...

Although the failed/worn bearing is responsible for the issue, the actual cause of the failsafe message is the resulting split O-ring, which allows fluid pressurising the A-clutch to escape and the clutch therefore slips.

When the fluid is cold, the increased viscosity means that the pump can keep up with the leakage and maintain pressure on the clutch. Once the fluid gets hot, the leakage exceeds the pump's capability, the pressure drops and the clutch slips.

The A-clutch is used in 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears so the control system has no choice other than to select 5th gear to ‘get you home’. If your transmission is failing safe to one of the other forward gears, this is not what’s causing your problem.

The transmission has to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled to replace the bearing and the O-ring.

ZF 5HP24 teardown

Phil
Phil you have been really helpful and thanks for responding to my posts... but I am stuck scratching my head, because its not defaulting to 5th, am I stuck in a strange scenario here... I even tried to manually re calibrate the transfer shift motor by fitting fuse 37, and shifting to hi/low 3 times.

If still get that cooler cleaned out. Age alone will start to clog that up. Maybe do the radiator as well
I am thinking of possibly doing this next... I can get both from FCP Euro for $250... but its not defaulting to 3rd....
I found a used transmission close by in town with 114k miles but he wants $1000 for it. even if I do the swap myself with no labor costs this is more than I can afford.
could it be the coolant coolant thermostat, or maybe the transmission thermostat, should I just replace all of it.... is it even worth replacing the trans filter and trans fluid at this point if I just need to rebuild it anyway.

I appreciate everyones feedback on this topic, I've gotten to the point where I almost feel like giving up, I'm just a college student, don't have a lot of money, just need to drive 15 miles to school and back every day. if I really had to I guess I can just limp mode to school until the car falls apart, this is really frustrating for me, if I take the transmission out to rebuild it I wont get to school at all... I would also have to rent a garage where I could rebuild it since I live in a studio apartment in the city with no real space to do this project. lucky right now we have been in quarantine doing online classes for the past few months, but thats about to change in a few weeks here.... just trying to look back over this post and go through all the scenarios before I spend all my savings. what are your guys thoughts, replace the radiator and trans oil cooler first, then if that doesn't work, replace transmission? or should I just go straight to the transmission replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
in addition to replacing all the spark plugs, I've replaced the valve cover gaskets, so no more oil leaking onto the plugs and coils, no more misfires.

I went ahead and ordered a new radiator and trans oil cooler. should be getting the parts next week... will report back, if the trans is overheating, hopefully this should solve the issue... after doing all this work, if I am still getting the failsafe I will go ahead and replace the trans, this rover will have a new lease at life... the way I see it, I've already gone this far, and spent this much money, to sell it at this point would be a huge loss to me.

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Discussion Starter #46
OK, so I've Ordered a New Radiator and a new Trans Oil Cooler, also Transmission Filter and Lifeguard 5 Transmission Fluid...
first I will start by draining the trans and changing the filter, and inspect the pan for metal ect... after I change the trans fluid, I will disconnect the fan, then remove and replace the radiator and the trans oil cooler, and see if this issue is related to a clogged oil cooler... last time I drained the rad I noticed that the coolant was dribbling out very slowly, indicating that the lower fins have probably been clogged, a little more digging and radiators typically last 10 years or 100k miles, so either way she is long overdue because I'm at 160k with original radiator and trans oil cooler.

did a code reading today, I am only left with 2 faults in the entire system:

MKIII Communications Performed by RSWsolutions - All Comms Software.
L322 Instrument Cluster Module Query Results: Performed on 7/8/2020 3:43:39 PM .!
Instrument Panel Module Fault Reading Complete...

0xBD 0x00BD EBV function fault received from ABS ECU.
0x8D 0x008D Transmission Interface Bus fault.


also did some digging around the bmw forums, and people with the E53 X5 (same engine and tranny) have had the ABS cause their trans failsafe condition, just for desperate measure I tried to disconnect my ABS and take it for a drive, but the failsafe came right up after about 2 miles.... so I might be able to eliminate that, but what is the EBV function fault??
 
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