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Discussion Starter #21
So I purchased a crankshaft holding tool, the bolt came right off. If you are going to do this type of work I would highly recommend purchasing this tool. Amazon sells it for around $68 with shipping. Now I just need to order all of the timing components, if anyone has suggestions on where to purchase please let me know.
 

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I purchased all the parts needed at pelicanparts.com and used the BMW part numbers on the Beisan tutorial listed on the first response to this thread. All the gaskets and tensioners were around $400. Also, replace the valley pan gasket while in there, if you haven't already. The upgraded valley pan and gasket is another $70.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I ordered the Vanos seals from Beisan today. Lucky they are right here in NC so i'll get the kit by Saturday. I plan to buy the timing kit from FCP Euro they have a kit for around $430 and it seems to be quality brand parts. The camshaft tensioners (right and left)seem to be in good shape so I am going to reuse them, all of the other past I plan to replace. I will take a look at the valley pan & gasket I assume I could work on them after the timing and vanos repair. All in all everything seems to moving along smoothly, I just hope it stays that way. Thanks to all for the invaluable information.
 

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As your coolant is drained I would urge you to replace the valley pan - URO sells a very nice unit that most recommend which can find very reasonable on Ebay. I think I paid about $35.00 for the pan and just re-used my cover.

You should probably also replace the coolant pipe o-rings (4 in total) that run above the valley pan as these will come out.

This will also give you a good look at your PCV system and the ability to change the little hose that drains into the oil pan. I sourced this hose locally with off the shelf oil rated hose. Most of the rest of the PCV system can be handled at a later date w/o much disturbance. Check the two larger hoses to make sure they are not getting soft. I also replaced these with generic off the shelf hose rather than use stock hoses. To be honest - it would make sense to change the PCV valve at this time. It is really easy when the manifold is removed. For less than $100 I think you can get this all taken care off.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok guys I think I screwed up. So on the Beisan systems procedure for rebuilding the vanos it states "vanos shaft must be marked to vanos body before removal to facilitate reinsertion in same position". I did mark the shaft however when I was cleaning the shaft the marking was erased. How can I fix this?? anyone ever goofed up like this before, what do I need to do?
 

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Don't worry about it. Raj has stated that it has happened to others and no noticeable bad came.

In my opinion I do it only b/c the procedure calls for it, but as the vanos advances I don't understand how it can be balanced.

In the future, scratch the surface where no seal sits and you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That's great news! I thought I was doomed. I need to reach out to Raj one of the vanos rubber seals that sits on the outside of the teflon seal broke. I hope I can purchase one from him without buying the entire kit.
 

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he was great when I broke my seal. I bought another whole set, but he sent me an extra teflon seal with that

do the URO valley pan.. it is the upgraded design do not use stock BMW/LR
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hi it's been a few weeks since I worked on the Rover. Over the weekend I set a goal to rebuild the vanos and install all of the timing guides, vanos distribution gasket and cover. I ran into a problem rebuilding the second vanos and had to get another Teflon ring. Lucky I live about 2.5 hours from the folks at Beisan, I called Raj and he was very helpful at the time he was out of town and really wanted to complete my goal of the above items, so I drove to the Beisan office and Raj had a few Teflon seals waiting for me (thanks Raj you are the man). I didn't really think I was going to use all of the seals I actually told Raj I wanted to get one, but being as knowledgeable as he is he advise me to get the extras and if I don't use them just mail them back to him. I actually used 4 Teflon seals on the last vanos rebuild. So Raj's advise was head on, or I would not of been able to finish my goal for the weekend if i din't listen to him. One more thing I wanted to say before moving on, Beisan (Raj) is a great company I would recommend them to anyone, Raj is not a person who will nickel and dime someone he is very helpful and most of all he takes customer service to the next level. Again Thanks Raj!! I was able to complete the rebuild and install all of the guides and dist housing. I want to share with you as well pressing the vanos takes a lot of effort I would recommend using a long pipe to leverage the wrench, remember you have to get at the very least one full turn in order to seat the plastic housing to the lip of the vanos. Later this week I am planning to install the chains, time the vanos and if time permits install the timing covers. I ordered the parts from two companies FCPeuro and Pelican. I got to tell you I would not be ordering from FCPeuro again, they are horrible in the sense of customer service and delivering on their ship times. It took them several days (3-4) to actually sip the parts and another week to get them to me, basically they over promised and undelivered, so i would not shop with them again and I don't recommend using them spend a few more dollars but you get quality service and parts. I really like Pelican I ordered the remaining parts from them instead of FCPeuro, they packed and shipped my order within 1 day and I got the items 2 days later, what more can you ask for!!! they also send me a small can of Jelly Belly Jelly beans which i snacked on while installing the parts (awesome). I am hoping to have the rest of the install done by next weekend, as I stated I am going to work on some more during the week and then tackle the rest over the weekend. Any tips of advise are welcomed. Thanks for everything thus far guy's.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I installed the vanos and timing chains and went on to do the continuity test but got no results. I tried to move the vanos back and fourth (to and from the retard position) to ensure any oil is removed, I tried the continuity again and got nothing. I am wondering if I pressed the vanos unit incorrectly and damaged it. Has anyone encountered this problem? I am at a lost and cannot find any write up on this problem.
 

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FWIW, I'm in the process of having to retime the Vanos on the driver side. Many like my self were hit and miss when it came to whether the vanos ohm out or not. One side did, one didn't. This will be my third attempt at timing as I am getting a P0021 code. Hopefully the last. If you read through the Beisan instructions it does tell you to do the Ohm test but I believe it says that it does not always Ohm out but not indicative that it is not properly timed.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I spoke to Raj from Beisan and he indicated the continuity test sometimes don't work, he is not sure what is the cause. He did advise me to make sure the vanos is in the retard position (farthest to the left side) and continue with assembling the engine. I am hoping for the best I really don't want to have to strip down the engine again.
 

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I would make sure you use their method of tightening it twice- once at a lower torque and once at a higher torque. As yes. it sucks to have to do it again. And again.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hi Guys! Today I placed back all of the timing covers so I am almost there I'll try to get the valve cover on before I wrap it up for the day. I have a question though. I went ahead and pulled the valley pan, what is recommended to change on this part? I have the oil separator out and it looks real dirty does this unit go bad or should I just give it a really goo cleaning with brake fluid? also is it ok to spray brake cleaner the valley pan where the fuel injectors are it look dirty in there?
 

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Here are some pointers: 1) For the Valley Pan buy the URO branded unit. Best design and affordable. You don't need to buy the plastic cover - I just used some RTV on the plastic pins to make sure it stayed in place. While you are there make sure the drain holes on the back of the block are clear. I believe there are two of them - just push a small screwdriver through and clean them out. 2) Clean with what ever works since you have access. 3) The oil separator doesn't really go bad but it could get brittle. Clean and check. Change the hoses. Again change the hoses. The easiest way to do this is disconnect the hard line that goes to the oil pan and pull it all out as an assembly. You will save hours of work as doing it in the truck affords no space. (If you have fresh oil in there, drain it into a clean container). With the hard pipe out it is really easy. If you do not properly clamp the hoses they will leak. (I just had this issue and it was a hose clamp that got loose - looked like it was the rear main seal). I recommend using those single use clamps here so you have no issues. Do these hoses now. You can use off the shelf hoses - just bring in the hose and buy what the store has that is oil resistant. Two hoses - a little one that goes to the PCV and a bigger hose that goes to the pipe. 4) On to your timing. This is off memory, but you can search for the BMW M62 updated service information to confirm, the continuity test is not an issue. If I recall the procedure is to turn the vanos counter clockwise with the special tool using 40NM of force (again confirm the correct torque). This force assures the vanos is all the way over. Then follow the rest of the procedure. 5) I also tightened the vanos bolt to the same torque as the exhaust sprocket (which is higher). I did this because the vanos bolt loosened after 10k or so of service and threw off the timing so it would not start. 6) Double check you trigger wheel timing with the upper valve cover timing hole. This should avoid an error code. If the trigger wheel is off 1-2mm it will throw a code even though the block side of the timing is correct. During this process make sure the upper timing cover is pressed all the way down - it needs to be level with the head. If it is not you may get the timing off code. Some upper timing cover gasket have a small lip on the bottom (where it meets the lower timing cover) and this is hard to compress properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Hey guy's! things are going well so far. I was able to install all of the engine components (water pump, alt, PS pump) I m having trouble remembering which hoses and plugs I need to hook up, I knew I should of taken more detailed notes. Hopefully I am able to hook them up properly. As of the Intake and valley pan I cleaned them out and will reinstall tomorrow. There are a few items I still need to get such as the antifreeze, oil and PS fluid. I did some reading up on the vanos solenoid and actually learned something that I would like to share. There is a special tool to remove the vanos solenoid a deep socket (32MM) in order to remove/install the solenoid you need this tool, however there is a tool which you can get from Lowe's it's a Shower valve socket (refer to the picture) I believe Lowe's sells a set of 4 for $19.99 you can use this to remove the solenoid. To reinstall and torque you can use a 1 5/8 socket and attach it to the end of the shower socket and you should be fine. The actual socket to remove the solenoid cost round $80 so you can save and have a tool to fix your shower if needed, the probability of you using the shower socket is greater than the odds of using the solenoid socket in the near future, and you'll save $50. Oh KG I ordered the URO gaskets thanks for the heads up! 20180916_133646 (3).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I am a little disappointed I completed the final steps in putting back all if the parts, along with new engine oil, PS and coolant. When I start the engine it has a clunking sound as I rev the engine the sound is still present. I am not sure if I got a wire crossed (since most of the wires have the same connection point) or if the engine is not time correctly. I did a scan and got a P0012 code (Camshaft control bank 1 Fault), also when I rebuilt my vanos I was not able to get a continuity test. I am not sure what went wrong but any help to point me in the right direction would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It's been awhile since I posted last. SO I had to go back into the engine to change the camshaft seals and oil valve which I missed. I was getting a know in the engine but I was able to resolve it, however the check engine light is coming on with a P0012 and a P0011 code. I ran a diagnostic check on the vanos and got a strange result. Bank 1 is showing a -20.81 deg and bank 2 is a 0.11 deg also I checked the vanos data stream it shows both banks at 94.90%, I am at a loss on what could be triggering the check engine light. I forgot to mention it feels like I am loosing a small amount to low end torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
It's been awhile since I posted last. SO I had to go back into the engine to change the camshaft seals and oil valve which I missed. I was getting a know in the engine but I was able to resolve it, however the check engine light is coming on with a P0012 and a P0011 code. I ran a diagnostic check on the vanos and got a strange result. Bank 1 is showing a -20.81 deg and bank 2 is a 0.11 deg also I checked the vanos data stream it shows both banks at 94.90%, I am at a loss on what could be triggering the check engine light. I forgot to mention it feels like I am loosing a small amount to low end torque.
 
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