Based on your information before going any further you need to check the condition of your block. Some in your situation (myself being one of them) have found that the block suffered severe gouging as a result of the timing guide failure. In my instance the prior owner let the failure go too long and oil starvation caused by plastic timing guide rail pieces restricting the flow of oil to the cylinders (in addition small metal fragments ("metal sparkle") which were also found(prior owner ran the RR so long after failure the chain was grinding through the aluminum guide rails - the plastic being worn through) resulted in severe cylinder wall scoring and gouging. You need to look for this before going any further.
I suggest you look for metal sparkle in the oil - you may have seen this when you dropped the oil pan. With the oil pan removed you need to look at the piston skirts and corresponding cylinder walls for scoring and gouging. It is not easy, but if you look carefully and rotate the engine you can see at least half of the walls. Finally if you have a camera scope you can drop it through the spark plug hole and look at the walls (mirror attachment). Look up my posts and member "Rovah" posts on the subject as we have both posted on this issue. Once you are sure your block is not damaged you can start ordering parts. You should also look at the bottom of your oil filter housing with filter removed and look for metal sparkle collection. This is not a good sign. From above, with the valve cover removed, you should look in the small puddles that collect in various parts of the head for metal sparkle - another bad sign. Your oil filter should have stopped this, but this is not always the case. If you find any and your block is good you need to spend time cleaning everything up - really clean. I can provide further comments as needed as you post updates.
Make sure you clean out your oil pick up screen of any plastic fragments. Small pieces can get wedged in there.
Assuming all is well you have two ways to approach the guide replacement - minimum spend and maximum spend.
Maximum spend would be to do all the rails, chains, cam chain tensioners, timing chain tensioner, o-rings, check valves, the metal vanos seals on cam shafts, new vanos (2) and all gaskets including oil pan and valve cover. You should also consider doing your valley pan, water pump and related, serpentine belt and pulleys, PCV system, intake gaskets, injector o-rings, throttle body gasket ... Basically everything on the top end. The added labor is minimal, but the parts can really add up.
Minimum spend would be to do the cam chain tensioner shoes and sealing o-ring, the three chain guides, timing chain tensioner and rebuild your vanos plus any gaskets that have been disturbed (Upper and lower timing guide cover gaskets, valve cover). I would also do the valley pan (use URO brand) if this has not been serviced. With this approach you are leaving many items undisturbed. Doing the chains is excluded here.
Essentially you are proceeding with the belief that the vehicle's components, other than the chain guides, were designed to go 300k or more miles. So you are changing only disturbed gaskets and o-rings and the failed parts. You are doing the vanos as they are showing signs of failure. You may be doing the valley pan as it always fails around your mileage plus you have everything off.
Look at the Beisan link it is a good reference both for procedure and parts. It has one replacing many additional items than necessary. Also look at RAVE - RAVE is also very well written and it tells you what small part to replace when doing the job. It does not include certain items - so it is on the bare minimum side. RAVE focuses more on changing just the failed component(s).
Until you actually start removing parts and seeing their condition it is hard to judge what to replace. You also need to consider your budget, prior service history and factor this in. Personally having done it three times, I would think you can get buy with bare minimum plus Vanos rebuild and valley pan. One way to approach the project is to break the project up into two pieces: Piece one is items inside the timing guide covers and item two is pieces outside the timing guide covers. Your problem right now is inside the timing guide covers, but to get there you have to take off many items outside. It is always easiest when things are off to replace, but the costs add up.