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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve had a search around and found various bits of information but nothing that I found to be conclusive and most threads seem to die mid-stream….

I’m looking at a 2003 HSE, 135K on it and it appears to be a steal…..however……it cranks but won’t start. There is power getting to the fuel pump, it hums when the ignition is on.
I do not know if there is fuel actually getting to the rail but will check that the next time I look at the vehicle.

Things I found to be potentially critical.


  1. When cranking it the front side lights blink, not evenly like turn signals, just a blink on then a longer off, like a slow strobe light.
  2. There is also a red wire protruding from the harness behind the battery that has an in-line fuse holder in it that has a bare end not connected to anything.
  3. I couldn’t see an inertia switch but since the fuel pump powers up I’m thinking maybe the bare red wire is the remains of it and it’s not having any effect. That’s a complete guess of course.
  4. The battery is new.
The current owner doesn’t know much about it and doesn’t seem too inclined to try to find out. He says the previous owner said “it just stopped working” – yeah, helpful….

So, from what I have found in the threads, I think maybe the ECU lost the connection and the immobilizer is preventing it from starting and that the owner then switched the battery and that had no effect at which point they gave up.
Would the immobilizer allow the engine to crank but not start or should it immobilize everything including the starter ? Why would the fuel pump prime if immobilized ? Is this just what these RR’s do ?
Assuming my theory is correct, I seriously doubt that I can get the EKA code given the information, or lack of, that I have got from the owner so far. He’s looking for it but I don’t have much hope.

Am I chasing a money pit here ?

Thanks in advance.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Immobilizer issues would not allow the engine to crank over at all, it would not even allow you to turn the key in the ignition switch, so that should not be an issue. If it cranks its not the immbilizer. So you only need fuel (at sufficent pressure), air, and a spark to get it to fire, assuming the timing chains/Vanos hasn't completely failed screwing up the timing. The extra red wire should not be on the +battery terminal, there is only a connection to the fuse box in the passenger compartment, and one to the jumper post in the firewall (that eventually runs down to the starter and alternator). Did the truck run for the current owner? Is it possible that the extra red wire went to some kind of anti theft system? Probably just a feed to something a PO added and removed.

Of course you are chasing a money pit, as we all are, its a Range Rover.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, thanks. So the fuel pump primes (by the sounds of it humming) but perhaps no fuel getting to the cylinders, or maybe it just hums and doesn't actually feed fuel. Assuming I can persuade the seller to let me mess with it, what pressure should be at the rail and is there a schrader valve ? There’s an engine cover over it all right now so I couldn’t see it when I looked last time. If so, I can test the fuel pressure after the pump “primes”. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mr-gasket-fuel-pressure-gauge-1561/17360129-P?searchTerm=fuel+pressure+gauge
Low or no pressure, it’s the pump, correct ? Assuming low pressure, is there an inline fuel filter between pump and rail that could be blocked before I blame the pump ?
I can also check for a spark presumably using an auto store tester like this ? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-inline-spark-te-lis20610/11706539-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11706539-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=CjwKCAjw8e7mBRBsEiwAPVxxiHI9yKCcRmxoJ5dNIDeK_mDIVIJreRCVGtamXRaT5-NgtJb88ytpoxoCm38QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

As for vanos and chains…..no clue. Is there an easy way to test it ? If it’s jumped timing (or worse) would there be any symptoms on a non-running engine that I could look for ? Compression for example, although I doubt he’ll let me test that.

Could this be battery related in any way ? I have to code the battery in my BMW when I replace it. The RR has a new looking battery in it, just wondering if it’s too small, not coded (if required) etc that could be causing this.

He says, it’s been sitting in his driveway for six months, hasn’t run. The previous owner told him “it just stopped working”. She went out to it one morning and it wouldn’t start.

Thanks for getting back to me, appreciate it.
 
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