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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Been awhile since I posted up... but I have a question that's been hashed out a little... but with a twist. I have a 1986 one ten (basically a defender), with a 2.5NA diesel engine in it. Love the truck but 68 hp isn't exactly meant for the highway. But... I love the authenticity of it so I really don't mind the engine. I run a fishing charter business so I'm pulling roughly a 3000 pound boat several times a week. I normally do this with the 2002 P38. Pulls fine. I was considering sticking the 4.6 engine into the 110. The thing that's different about what I have here is that in the other threads they usually just bought the engine or engine/tranny. I obviously have the whole car to steal parts from... So I don't see it being a terribly difficult swap... especially since the NAS Defender 90's had the 3.9 engine, which to my knowledge shares the same mounting points.

Part B of this one, which I'm sure will be 100x more difficult, would be to basically just stick the 110 body onto the P38 frame. Wheelbase is nearly identical... both body on frame construction. I dunno... it could be neat... but probably a stretch that really isn't worth the effort.

So anyway... do you see any crazy roadblocks sticking the 4.6 into the 110? I'd be fine with getting a megasquirt system to run the fuel injection and avoid the immobilizer system... and I think ashcroft has a computer to run the transmission for not much money. It would probably be cheaper, more reliable, easier to do a LSx swap and a 4l60e or similar... but I already have the P38.

Any thoughts? Roadblocks?

Thanks.

-Mag
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
I think you can use the existing chassis mounts, I have not done a 4cyl to v8 swap. I have done v8 to v8 upgrade and it is straight forward, v8 to 300 tdi and I had to relocate mounts using adaptors.

if you're using megasquirt you do not need to by pass immobilizer as megasquirt is a stand alone system.
yes you're correct, if you're planning on using the auto box you can use the "compushift" controller offered by ashcroft or you could go r380 manual (at this time may speak with ashcroft if you can install the 5 speed out of the puma)

any major roadblocks may be the length of the drive shafts, location of shifters, shifter mount console and possible transmission and transfer case crossmember location.
its recommended you switch over to an lt230 transfers case as the borg wagner out of the p38 is electronic and left side output versus right side and manual on the lt230 (which is what you need).

fuel tank may or may not need to be upgraded to accept hight pressure fuel injection fuel pump set up, not sure how megasquirt requires and needless to say spark delivery which megasquirt controls as well.

don't forget cooling and trans lubrication, I would use a separate trans cooler and all aluminum coolers and radiator.
great project good luck.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
Hey Keith
There's a saying in engine swap circles......Just because you have it, doesn't make it a good candidate for a swap. Very true words.
Now if you insist....
I'd go either ms, or carb it with a readily available intake. Then you'll have to get the standalone trans controller.
Aren't the axles on the wrong side for a P38 transfer case though?? Last 110 I had back home, I'm pretty sure the axles were passenger (over here) side drop. P38 is driver side drop. Unsure if the DII and P38 ZF trans share the same output shaft etcc to put a Disco transfer case in there or not. If they are the same, that would solve that issue. If not, then another headache.
I made an adapter to go from the 4l60e to the P38 transfer case on my swap. It saved a lot of headaches.

Martin
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hey Martin... I was hoping you'd chime in. The thought crossed my mind to just send you both cars and have at it lol. Yeah, I'd use the stock 110 transfer case, because as you mentioned it's right side drop. Word is it's pretty robust so I wouldn't worry about over powering it with the 4.6. And yes... you're right, just because I have it here doesn't make it a good decision. I might be better off just doing an iron block 5.3 in there or keep it diesel with a 200tdi (although it still wouldn't have enough power IMO).

Ah well... it's nothing that's going to happen anytime soon anyway... we'll see if this itch ever gets scratched.

Thanks.

-Mag
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Here's a pic of the offending truck btw. Leaves a trail of oil and rust wherever it goes.

 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
I spoke with Scotty about this kinda thing ages ago.
I suggested a nice 4.3 V6 for the Series he's building. Same trans options, but less weight. A 4.8 would be your best bet if you went Ls though. Very cheap to buy, but the same aftermarket support, and plenty of poke for the Rover.
All this isnt to say that the 4.6 woudn't work, but I always look at the hassle to reward ratio. And in this case (MS engine controller, CS trans controller, etc), I dont see it being worth the headache for the low power the 4.6 puts out. I cant imagine that 2.5NA though, must be a real dog! My last one had a 2.25 petrol, and it was scared of it's own shadow....lol
If you sent me the Rover, I'd be more than happy to do the swap for you. I would recommend going either the 4.3 route, or a baby Ls with a 4L60E behind it. Then I'd just mate that to the Rover transfer case the same I do for the 4L60E to BW P38 case.
You could also keep it simple by doing a carb motor, then a TH400 or 700R4 trans. The R4 would be good for the overdrive, and can easily be made into a mechanical transmission with no ecm etc. With the EFI motors being so easy these days though, it's the way to go. Get in, turn the key, go drive. No choke, glow plugs, and so on to mess with. The LS ecm also does the transmission, so no extra stuff required. One wiring harness and ECM does it all.
Needless to say, if you need anything give me a call!

Martin
 

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Registered
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1,074 Posts
I don't know much about Series Land Rovers but that cool old pickup looks like something that would have collector value. Since you want it to be drive-able, I would think a conversion not requiring cutting and major fab to preserve the original truck would be the way to go. Of course saving the original parts. I would love to have a LR pickup, very cool.
 

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Super Moderator
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2,198 Posts
You'd probably be better off looking for the running gear from a Classic rather than a P38. Driveshafts on the same side (same axles in fact), no BeCM or immobiliser to get around, gearbox and BW transfer case would all be compatible too. How do you get away with running it in the US still on UK plates? Or is there a time limit as it has only been outside the UK since after July (it has a UK MoT test certificate valid until July 2018). It's had a lot of work done to it over the years, mostly to do with rust. Put the registration number into https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history and you can see everything it has failed on over the years.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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222 Posts
You'd probably be better off looking for the running gear from a Classic rather than a P38. Driveshafts on the same side (same axles in fact), no BeCM or immobiliser to get around, gearbox and BW transfer case would all be compatible too.
This, IMO is the way to go.
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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3,622 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I haven't gotten around to registering it here yet... was waiting for the V5 (title) to show up. Finally came this weekend.... so I've been bending the law a bit while I enjoy it. :)
I put some 33's on it this weekend and really like the way it drives now vs. the 31's that were on it, so I'll probably just keep the 2.5NA diesel in it and pull the boat with one of the other cars.

Thanks for the advice and compliments.

-Mag
 
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