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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after some thought and some boredom I have decided to install a Remote Starter in my Range Rover. Over the last couple of years I have seen many threads started looking for help with the install of an aftermarket alarm or remote starter. These threads usually begin with many posts questioning the sanity of the OP or telling him/her that they are stupid, insane etc.. Unfortunately the threads always finish with a promise of a tutorial and that is the last we ever here of the OP.
I tend to research quite a bit before doing a job to save on errors as I complete the wiring. I have attached a wiring diagram I have created to do the system I have purchased. The wiring in the door for the locks I completed yesterday while I had some time available. I tested it by grounding the wires to the chassis and confirmed it was working 100%.
I am working on the AUX1 (- 1 sec pulse) option on the remote start to activate the heated seats and prog setting on the HEVAC system.
Anyway see what you think. Hopefully it will help someone else down the road.
Please refrain from posting the usual crap that always gets posted in Remote Starter threads.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Check that your aux output is a switch closure and not a voltage output. I had the HEVAC panel apart, and I've got it in my head that the buttons are multiplexed so I don't think your button wiring is going to work. You might need reed relays or something instead.

How do you get around the immobiliser?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll check the aux output. Thanks for your input.
Passive Immobilizer was disabled when I bought the truck. I since bought a nanocom evolution and confirmed this was the case.
Previous owner probably had issues because the latch micros switches were toast.
The HEVAC unit grounds a pin to activate the PROG button. I have not confirmed the heated seats. Marty was helping me with the HEVAC unit. I have a spare unit with dead lcd so I intent to do some tests myself.
Edit: just checked the aux in the manual.
500mA negative output with the option of 1-second pulse or as long as button is pressed.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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A member did this a year or two ago IIRC.
Tried a search?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A member did this a year or two ago IIRC.
Tried a search?
Yes I searched and found his promise to tell everyone how he did it only to vanish. Second last post in the thread is me asking him to post the tutorial he promised.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Given that the aircon is disconnected and one blend motor is working but sufficiently arthritic to upset the HEVAC unit, I've been considering giving it a brain transplant.

Maybe a "Just defrost everything" pin would be a good idea.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Defrost everything button sounds good to me!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks for the work you are doing..could you share what unit you are using as the remote start controller?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have run into two issue so far.
1. The Tach signal does not work from the wire I selected. Truck cranks and starts and immediately dies. The unit has a virtual tach setting but I can't program that due to problem 2.
2. The Ignition (+12V) from the unit is also an input when the hood is open for the ignition being on or off. Because the ignition is isolated from the unit via relays it does not recognize the ignition being on. Because of this I can't program the unit.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have run into two issue so far.
1. The Tach signal does not work from the wire I selected. Truck cranks and starts and immediately dies. The unit has a virtual tach setting but I can't program that due to problem 2.
2. The Ignition (+12V) from the unit is also an input when the hood is open for the ignition being on or off. Because the ignition is isolated from the unit via relays it does not recognize the ignition being on. Because of this I can't program the unit.

Are you testing the unit with the vehicle locked, or unlocked?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Unlocked. I'm curious as to why this would matter?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Because if it was locked then it's immobilised, and even though it would crank/try to start it wouldn't keep running.

Likewise if it is unlocked and you have the passive immobiliser still active in the BECM then after a timeout period it will automatically immobilise the engine again, which gives the same symptoms as you are having.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Until I can program the unit I unlocked the truck with the original remote then tested the start command on the remote starter remote.
When configured the remote starter unit sends a pulse to the key microswitch and then the cdl microswitch before attempting to start so in theory it will work.
The non start issue could be a bad tach source but until I can program the unit I will not know. No messages are displayed as the car attempts to start. I was waiting to see if the engine disabled or other messages appeared. I also left the key in the ignition to see if it made any difference.
I want to sort out the 12v input first then I will worry about the tach. I am going to modify the diagram tomorrow at work with a possible solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK so I updated the wiring diagram with 2 new relays to control the 12V feedback from the ignition.
See what you think! Thanks for looking!
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi Ray,

I will try and take a look at this tomorrow for you.

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Marty, Hopefully I'm on the right track!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Martin,
Lots of good info on that link you posted, Thx. I have a wire I can tap into for the Tach at the bosch ECU under the hood. I was trying to do it at the BECM to save running a wire through the firewall. I'm going to take another look at it this weekend.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I've had a quick look through the diagram, and will need to sit down and write it out a bit and try and work out what each part is trying to control.

The HEVAC side - you only really need the one diode - there's going to be nowhere near 1A going into each of those switches. Also as the remote start is providing a ground, the band on the diode needs to be on the other side.

What are each of the relays powering/switching?

Marty
 
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