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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hello, I have a 2001 P38.
I swapped the motor out (I have done this before) put it all together, and it started!
I had a vacuum line off so it was running rough. Put the vacuum hose back on. When I tried to start again, it turned over very slowly acting like the battery died and then nothing.
I checked the battery and it is good 12.9 volts. I even tried to jump start it with another battery. When I turn the key the lights in the car dim and the radio turns off acting like it wants to start but no energy to the starter. Not even a click at the starter. I do hear relays clicking but no go. My alarm is working with the key fob so not suspecting a security issue.
I swapped the starter just to see if that was the issue and nothing. I then cleaned my grounds really well from the battery to frame and frame to the top of the alternator mount. I also cleaned the ground from the hood to the back of the passenger side head and verified the ground from main wiring harness to back of the drivers side head is connected.
Are there other grounds? I verify I have 12V at the starter. I swapped a few relays in the fuse box to see if that might be it. Now I am at a loss as what to try next. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your support!
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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382 Posts
Have you tried taking that same vacuum line back off and try starting it? What kind of vacuum line is it?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
I edited your post to make it readable without Advil.
At this point, you have messed with too many things for anyone here to have a clue what to suggest accurately. YOU need to go back, in a logical manner this time, and recheck everything you messed with.
Seeing as you have a Bosch, there are lots of vacuum lines, so which one did you leave off and refit?
This isn't a vacuum line issue though, as a simple line couldn't lead to your conditions.
It really sounds like you have some plug wires crossed to me. A car wont start, or want to turn over, when the ignition timing is way off.
We also have no idea as to the condition of this swapped motor. New? Used? Junkyard? etc etc etc.
Reuse the old coil pack, if it came with one?
Non of us have a crystal ball, and cant see if you made a total mess of everything, or did a great job. I'm guessing you messed up the ignition wires though.
No mention of testing for actual fuel pressure and spark. Two kinda obvious things to check for. And I dont mean sticking a screw driver into the test port like some monkey, I mean an actual fuel pressure reading.

Martin
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Okay, was not expecting that. The problem is simply the motor will not turn over. It has nothing to do with the vacuum line. The plug wires are not swapped. I heard the fuel pump pressurize, and like I said it started once but I think the battery was low. I charged the battery and now when I turn the key to position III the starter motor does not engage. All I hear is the BECM or the relay in the fuse box clicking. I am suspecting a starter relay or something else that would prevent the starter from engaging. I cleaned the grounds and now not sure what else to try. I read the RAVE and want to try Test A but for the life of me cannot find in the RAVE where the location of the starter relay is. Any help with the starting issue would be appreciated. BTW, I have rebuilt 5 Bosch motors so I am very familiar with this vehicle. I currently have 3 P38's all Bosch and a DII. Thank you
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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482 Posts
I think you need to go back to the start and check for power loss with a multi meter or bridge the starter to see if it is dead . if you removed the battery start there. look for a lose terminal .
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,421 Posts
As mad as says. Go back to basics on this one. forget the vac line for now.
You say that you have checked and cleaned all the grounds.....How about the positives?.
Slow crank or no crank with lights dimming etc with all other factors good means low voltage. Period.
If the battery is good, then you have resistance somewhere else. Pull the fuse box and open it up.
It will take all of 30 min to do, and you will see if there is something burnt inside on the board.
Also, I am not convinced about the battery. You said a couple of things that conflict in my mind, so place the probes of your volt meter directly on the LEAD POSTS of the battery, turn on the headlights, and have someone try to start it. Look at voltage drop and then place the probes on the battery terminals and repeat........Quick and easy test that can show up a bad battery or bad terminal connection. The factory clamps can get tired, and even though the bolt is tight, can still be loose on the post.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So here is where I am. I took a known good battery out of my other rover. No change, it still will not turn over. I went under the car and bridged the solenoid connection to the red battery lead at the starter and still no engine crank. What does that mean? Shouldn't it turn over at that point? I checked that I have 12v at the starter and grounded my multi-meter to the starter itself when I checked. I am really baffled. Any help appreciated.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,421 Posts
So, if you have the meter leads attached to the pos terminal bolt of the starter motor, and the neg lead to the starter case, and you then jump the solenoid to Batt pos, and the voltage does not change at all and the solenoid does not click and the starter does not spin, then you have a bad starter.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Coming back with an update to my issue ofmy P38 not starting after motor swap. It was strange that it started onceright after the rebuild, but then would not start again. I installed a newstarter (aftermarket) and it still would not start. What had me boggledwas I was not able to bridge the starter and make it work. This lead meto believe (with help from this forum) that the new starter I purchased was no good. I removed the starterand took it back to the parts store. He tested it and... it DID NOTWORK! So, we took a new starter out of the box and it DID NOTWORK!! What??? After further inspection of the starter there weretwo different contact points that could be used for the signal wire. Theobvious one was not correct, but the other one on the other side of thesolenoid was correct. We retested using the other terminal and it worked.... So I took it home, connected it to the other terminal and.. VROOM! Woohoo. Sometimes the easy things are hard to find. Thanks all for theassistance working through the issues. I appreciate it!!

 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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766 Posts
Yes , I know the connectors your talking about, it does seem obvious to put the feed wire on the connection that does zero,, one I learnt after a engine swap..
 
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