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Discussion Starter #1
So I am looking into purchasing a 2000 4.6 HSE owned by one family since new. All Service records and maintained at 1 dealership and one private garage its entire life. The car has every receipt right down to the oil changes. It has 160k miles and has had the air suspension deleted. There are 3 known issues with the car currently. First is the front passenger window is operating slower than the other windows, the o-rings on the heater core are rotted and dripping when heat is on full blast and one of the flaps in the HVAC system is not functioning all the time. All the other flaps operate as they should. The truck is immaculate inside and out. The owner even keeps a cleaning kit in the trunk at all times, you can tell this truck is very well loved.

A little background on me. I'm a vintage BMW guy. I daily drive a 1989 535i and have owner multiple e30's. Current weekend car is an e36 m3 that I'm usually wrenching in the little spare time I have. I do all of my own work on my cars and I have access to a lift for the tougher jobs I tackle. I am looking at this Range as a car for my wife. She drives about 3 miles daily to train station, daycare, grocery store and home. The Range would also split duties on weekend trips to Maine and NH from Salem, MA as the family hauler. My wife is very in-sync with the vehicles she drives and knows when something is going wrong so I feel confident when she drives any of my older cars.

From what I see on the DIY's for this forum I feel like I can handle most of the intricacies of these vehicles and I love cars with character. Am I nuts to consider one of these?

BTW.... the wife is in love with it and it is sitting at my trusted mechanic getting a PPI done as we speak. I will update this thread with results of the PPI.

Thanks for all your help.
 

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Administrator
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Why would an enthusiast site talk you out of it?

Notes:

The orings will leak no matter the setting. It is a full flow system. Easy weekend project costing around $5.

EAS delete, apologies that someone was talked into castration instead of doing their research. Still, no big deal.

Blend or temp flap motor hanging up can be all sorts of things, still an easy fix.

Purchase, fix and run a full maintenance for a base line and enjoy.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You KNOW you are gonna buy it, so GO FOR IT!
Of course, you failed to mention how much they are asking.....I would think no more than 2k......

I am however with Toad on the EAS....If it has truly been looked after by Pros and "Experts" it's whole life, the fact they did the unspeakable to it's suspension seriously lowers their credibility in my book! I mean what else did they booger?
 

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Depends on the price though. And yeah, if you can work on an E30 or E34, you should be fine. The P38 is a nothing in comparison to my E39iT & old E28. The only stuff on the Rover that I'm not overly comfortable with is usually the brittle plastic stuff that I seem to routinely break that costs lots of money and time to replace. I will say though, the heater core is not exactly an easy fix... that will be a chore if and when you deal with that
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I will say though, the heater core is not exactly an easy fix... that will be a chore if and when you deal with that
Huh? He's only got leaking O rings and, having done them 3 times now, I've got it down to under half an hour! That's on RHD cars too where they are on the drivers side, LHD should be even easier.
 

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Heater core is still only a day project. Two if you takes lots of pictures instead of following RAVE.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I might be wrong Bolt or Toad will know but it is a perfect year with the bosh engine and parts are a lot more reasonable.
I would predict you will be trying to drive it as much or more than your wife and will be looking for a second one two.
The P38 IMHO is the best looking, and even now 25 years later looks better than the current models.
It would be a hard sell to get me to give up my rover. There is nothing out there like it.

Enjoy and stay on this forum. Lots of good people and good information.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome stuff boys. The PO has all of the air suspension parts still so maybe one day I could put it back in. They are asking 4,800 for the truck and with the shape it is in it seems to be a great deal. My mechanic is looking at it today and if it checks out alright I think I am going to make an offer.

Absolutely right about the looks of this vehicle. She is so sexy. Love the lines of this truck.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hmmm,
With all of the annoying niggly things it needs, and the defunct (But available) EAS, I would think $4800 is at the high end, however, single owner and all records is a good thing as long as the records show things like water pumps, hoses, brakes abs accumulators, and all the other wear parts have already been done....... recently........
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright guys, here is the report from my mechanic....
-Valve Cover Gaskets are leaking
-A/C condensor is leaking and needs to be replaced
-Power steering hose noise when turning left (not terrible pronounced)
-Left Outer Tie Rod is nearing the end of its life
-Some oil leaking at the front of engine, says it could be timing chain cover, cam seals, even questioning head gasket for this but he has no way of knowing without opening it up. (I read that if a Rover isn't leaking a bit of oil then it's not a Rover)
-P1412 1415 code for secondary air pump

I can handle the majority of the work but the $4800 price tag is certainly not appealing with the work needing to be done. I'm thinking about offering him $3500.

Thoughts?

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/5097940777.html --Vehicle in question
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Valve cover gaskets aren't a problem, cheap and relatively simple to change, AC condenser again is simple as long as you can undo the old pipes and the PAS hose noise may just be the hose touching something. Outer tie rod again is simple, although you will ideally need to get the geometry set after you've changed it and the oil leak at the front of the engine is probably the main crank oil seal (very common, part of the patented LR continuous anti-rust system) but I can't help at all with the secondary air pump as we don't get such things over here.

Definitely cause for a bit of negotiation on the price but it does look and will look even better when the EAS is back on so it isn't standing on stilts.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Awwww..... I was going to say 2 grand!:doh:

Congrats! and welcome to the wonderful world of P-38 ownership!
Now, I don't think you mentioned this, but you need at LEAST one working key fob remote.....Preferably both!
Without this, you will be driving a ticking bomb, which will not blow up, it will just lock you out and alarm itself......Usually at night, in the rain........
 

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Huh? He's only got leaking O rings and, having done them 3 times now, I've got it down to under half an hour! That's on RHD cars too where they are on the drivers side, LHD should be even easier.
If it's just the o rings, no big deal. If you are pulling the core itself though, it's a long process of removing the dash. That's what I am getting at.
 

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Alright guys, here is the report from my mechanic....
-Valve Cover Gaskets are leaking
-A/C condensor is leaking and needs to be replaced
-Power steering hose noise when turning left (not terrible pronounced)
-Left Outer Tie Rod is nearing the end of its life
-Some oil leaking at the front of engine, says it could be timing chain cover, cam seals, even questioning head gasket for this but he has no way of knowing without opening it up. (I read that if a Rover isn't leaking a bit of oil then it's not a Rover)
-P1412 1415 code for secondary air pump

I can handle the majority of the work but the $4800 price tag is certainly not appealing with the work needing to be done. I'm thinking about offering him $3500.

Thoughts?

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/5097940777.html --Vehicle in question
Still a good buy at $3800. Sounds like a pretty typical P38. Nothing on that list would scare me at all. Just remember to keep an eye on the fluids. Most P38s will need a head gasket at some point, and if that is the case, which I am sure you know, don't let it overheat.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
There are numerous short cuts for the heater core. Makes it a 1.5-2hr job all in.
Wont be the camshaft seals for the oil leak up front, doesn't have them.
I have been seeing a few camshaft sensor o rings go hard and leak though lately, so worth checking there for the leak.

Martin
 
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