[jdkohnke]

I recently purchased a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE. The previous owner had completed the Coil Conversion prior to my purchasing and I was able to fix the EAS message using the information I found on this board. Since then, I have come up with a few other problems. Any help you could offer diagnosing these issues would be SINCERELY appreciated.

1. ABS Fault / Traction failure

I was getting these two messages and, based on the search function, assumed that I needed a new battery. Today I went to purchase one. It turns out that my battery was new 08/08 and tested perfectly on the Autozone equipment.

Next I will check the ABS sensors. Do you think these two faults are related?

2. I had the car professionally detailed. When I picked it up I developed two additional problems...

The driver side rear window will not stay up. When I press the "up" switch on the console I can hear a relay clicking, but nothing happens. the window will roll up if I press the up switch on both the console and the door at the same time. Sometimes it will stay up for a few seconds, sometimes it won't. But, in the end, it always rolls down.

Additionally, since the detailing, I am now also getting beeping and a message that says, "KEY IN IGNITION", even when the key ISN'T in the ignition.

Finally, none of the amber warning lights on the dash will illuminate. I have assumed the worst - that the previous owner has pulled bulbs - but I figured I would throw this in case it may be somehow related.

On a happy note, an inspection at the dealer during the oil service came out pretty positive with the exception of a few leaks (Oil Pan and Front Differential).

Thanks in advance if you can help.

Jeff

 

[onetime]

Hi The key issues is the flap inside the key insert sticking, some wd40 should sort just not too much, or you can just give it a fiddle abit you will see the flap come down or not. makes it a bugger to lock sometimes.

Si if i am right you can not get the car to tell that the key is taken out, fix the key issue and the above may go away, after a while, the system checks and rechecks everytime it is switch on. I have driven up a curbs before and the lights came on etc then disappeared after restart.

if that don't work the faults need to diagnosed on the rovacom, testbook , autologic, go to indie and ask what the faults mean the come back to the forum and post results. should not cost more than £50 for this unless you go to the stealers.

If the motors working as it sound like it is, may just be a switch fault/wiring, Try all the above first start with the cheapest always the best option on these cars that includes doing the work yourself and then get it diagnosed, make sure they do the Becm (body control module) and might aswell get all the systems done too, do you have a book sign on your ac control if you don't you done well!!
cheers
Onetime
Onetime

 

[john-sussex]

I recently purchased a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE. The previous owner had completed the Coil Conversion prior to my purchasing and I was able to fix the EAS message using the information I found on this board. Since then, I have come up with a few other problems. Any help you could offer diagnosing these issues would be SINCERELY appreciated.

1. ABS Fault / Traction failure

I was getting these two messages and, based on the search function, assumed that I needed a new battery. Today I went to purchase one. It turns out that my battery was new 08/08 and tested perfectly on the Autozone equipment.

Next I will check the ABS sensors. Do you think these two faults are related? more than likely.

2. I had the car professionally detailed. When I picked it up I developed two additional problems... They could have soaked your switches in cleaner that is causing poor contact, my n/s/r plays up from time to time as the centre switches were treated to a 'coke' watering!

The driver side rear window will not stay up. When I press the "up" switch on the console I can hear a relay clicking, but nothing happens. the window will roll up if I press the up switch on both the console and the door at the same time. Sometimes it will stay up for a few seconds, sometimes it won't. But, in the end, it always rolls down.

Additionally, since the detailing, I am now also getting beeping and a message that says, "KEY IN IGNITION", even when the key ISN'T in the ignition. check to see if the centre of the switch pops out when you take the key out, they stick sometimes, a prod with your finger will soon sort it, it can lead to a flat battery as the brain won't shut down.

Finally, none of the amber warning lights on the dash will illuminate. I have assumed the worst - that the previous owner has pulled bulbs - but I figured I would throw this in case it may be somehow related.

On a happy note, an inspection at the dealer during the oil service came out pretty positive with the exception of a few leaks (Oil Pan and Front Differential).

Thanks in advance if you can help.

Jeff

 

[kmagnuss]

For the abs/traction, it definitely could be a abs sensor. Do a little searching around on here, as it's a pretty common problem.

As for the window, your'e going to have to take the door panel off and have a look around in there. It could be the motor, the rack thingy (no idea what it's called) or ???

 

[jdkohnke]

Thank you very much for your advice! I will give your suggestions a shot and report back with the results.

Thanks again,

Jeff

 

[Col]

"KEY IN IGNITION", even when the key ISN'T in the ignition

Not sure WD40 is the right thing to use, Graphite Powder is what you need.

Cheers

 

[onetime]

Hi Couldn't remember the powers name, sorry but it might be best.
cheers
Onetime

 

[jdkohnke]

Hi Couldn't remember the powers name, sorry but it might be best.
cheers
Onetime

I'm not sure I know what you mean by this...

 

[jdkohnke]

I managed to fix the ignition problem with some lock lubricant. :clap:

The window switch issue took care of itself over the weekend. I can only assume that there was some cleaner from the detail shop that worked its way into the switchpack. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but so far so good.

Thank you VERY MUCH for your help!!

No luck yet with the Traction Failure message.

 

[ghind]

Traction failure message can be a bad brake pedal sensor. It has two switches in one so it can detect when one fails. It can also be an ABS wheel speed sensor. When does it happen (when you first start the car or after you start moving).

Do not use WD40 to lubricate anything. It does it briefly but actually removes grease etc. You need graphite powder or silicon spray.

Also follow the tests in the electrical sticky to ensure that isn't the cause of your traction message

 

[jdkohnke]

As best as I can recall, the Traction Failure message comes on right away. The ABS Fault Message seems to come on when I start moving.

 

[ghind]

Testbook will tell you if it is the brake pedal or you can check it with a multimeter.

Another test is seeing if your traction control actually works but your ABS doesn't. i.e. get on some slippery stuff and floor it. If the traction control still works, it is probably your brake pedal switch.

If it is the switch, would you please keep it and work out how I can get the faulty switch from you. There have been lots of posts re ABS in offroad situations and the desirability of being able to MAKE your car do the above (disable ABS but traction control still works).

Greg

 

[jdkohnke]

Testbook will tell you if it is the brake pedal or you can check it with a multimeter.
If it is the switch, would you please keep it and work out how I can get the faulty switch from you. There have been lots of posts re ABS in offroad situations and the desirability of being able to MAKE your car do the above (disable ABS but traction control still works).

Greg

No problem, Greg. I plan to have a dealer run all of the RR specific codes. If the switch is faulty, it is yours.

Jeff

 

[jdkohnke]

I was correct in my earlier statement:

The Traction Failure message comes on roughly 20-30 seconds after switching on the ignition. The ABS Fault message comes on when I start moving.

 

[ghind]

Doesn't sound like your pedal switch. What results did you get to the electrical sticky test?

Have you gone back to the main rr.net site (not the forum) and followed the abs troubleshooting processes?

 

[jdkohnke]

Doesn't sound like your pedal switch. What results did you get to the electrical sticky test?

Have you gone back to the main rr.net site (not the forum) and followed the abs troubleshooting processes?

I went through the troubleshooting / diagnosis page on the RR.net site. I am now thinking that I may need an accumulator as the pump runs for about 45 seconds after sitting overnight and every second pedal push.

The one thing I'm unclear on (even after using the search function) is this: Would a bad / failing accumulator cause the Traction Failure and ABS Fault messages?

For what it's worth I'm also getting code P1590, which appears to ABS related.

Any thoughts?

 

[SpiggyTopes]

Yes, I believe so, under heavy braking the accumulator is depleted quickly leading to the error messages.

Don't leave it too long or the pump will suffer.