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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been working through several issues on here, and everyone has been a great help. Unfortunately my Rover is stranded now and i need some help.

I have had the dancing locks issue since i bought it a few months ago, but the fob always worked (it came with a spare that had a low battery). Sometimes I would have to press unlock before starting the car because it would suddenly lock while i was inside and the engine would be immobilized asking for me to press the remote.

Today we experienced a new issue this morning where the tailgate wouldn’t open, and the fob wasn’t locking or unlocking the doors anymore. My wife got in, as it was unlocked, and drove to work. She said the dash said it was low battery in the fob. When she got out she couldn’t lock it or unlock the tailgate with the fob.

She left to wrk and when she returned she opened the door, put the key in, and the dash read “engine disabled press remote”. I have no idea why it immobilized, but the fob was no longer able to access the central locks even though the little red light still came on when pushing buttons.

I started by replacing the batteries in both fobs with new ones, but when I returned to the Rover they didn’t work even though both had little red lights going. I tried to synch them in case that was the issue, using several methods I found here, and in the owner’s manual, and there was no change. I tried doing the EKA code thing using 1515, but that didn’t work. Oddly, when I started the 4 turns to the right to start the process halfway though all doors electronically locked and the hazards would flash.

I could open it with the key, but cannot start the vehicle no matter what I do. I really need to get it moving as I cant leave it parked where it is.

What do all these symptoms point to?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Dancing locks are like a ticking timebomb. I had a thread where I let it go and the day I got my new drivers latch(used good) it took 50 tries to open the door. The truck thinks you are breaking in. A few tricks I would try. Use the key to get in and try to roll the windows down. close door and roll the windows up with the key held to the right.
Then unlock and hope they all read ad unlocked. To set the fob is put the key in hold the lock button till it blinks fast and turn to lock. Without removing, hold unlock till it blinks fast and unlock. That is the only method to sync.
The EAK is different. Sounds like you need a drivers latch. I am on my 3rd one.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hahaha, damnit! I was trying to hold out until I took it off the road for a full engine rebuild. Too late!

Ok, I’ll try those tricks tonight. Any reason why this is the driver side? (Canada Spec).

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No luck. Windows go down no problem, go up with the key in the lock no problem.

But the fob won’t sync or work, and when I unlock the door with the key the lights start flashing and it won’t start. Everything else with power works though...
 

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Very strange I will be watching this thread. I would think at this point it is time for a new drivers door latch,
others may chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will that solve the problem? It’s on the list for sure, but will I still have to deal with the locked out Becm?
 

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If all you have is Engine Immobilised, Press Remote, all it has done is unlocked the car but not turned off the immobiliser because you ignored the warnings it was giving you. It won't lock the BeCM unless you start doing anything else and really screw it up. The only way you are going to turn off the immobiliser is by giving it the EKA but most NAS spec cars didn't have an EKA programmed. If, after the 4 turns on the key to get into EKA accept status, the doors unlocked (not locked as you wrote), you don't have an EKA programmed and the 4 turns is sufficient to turn off the immobilser. By giving the key more turns following that, you have made it think the 4 turns was someone randomly turning the key to break in and it has re-imobilised it. Give it the 4 turns, if the doors all unlock, and the LED on the top of the dash isn't flashing, start the car. Tailgate is operated via the RH front door, if that is locked, so is the tailgate, it is is unlocked then the tailgate is too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I went up to the truck, put the key in, and turned it 4 times to the right (locked) and there was no change to the locks.

The hazards all started blinking (the horn for the alarm has long been unplugged) and the dash red light is blinking.

I tried again to sync the fob by using the method described above and there is no change, it does not work eventhough the little red light on the fob shines.

Could I need an EKA code?
 

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Sounds as though the key switch in the drivers door latch has died. The hazards blinking means you have set the alarm off. If the alarm has been triggered you won't be able to sync the fobs until the alarm and immobilser have been reset but you can't do that because the microswitches in the latch are stuffed.

Presumably the door unlocks so you can get into the car? Take the door trim panel off, unplug the electrical connector to the door latch, make up a loop of wire so you can SIMULTANEOUSLY ground the blue/red and green/red wires. This will simulate the key being turned in the lock and the mechanical linkage operating the sill button. As you ground them, the doors should all unlock but will lock again when you disconnect the ground. That should also have turned off the alarm and reset the immobilser. When you turn the ignition on, the dash should say, Alarm Triggered, and tell you that the front door was opened, but the engine should start.

Then replace your door latch before trying to use the car again......
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, thank you! I’ll give that a go this afternoon!

Should I need to sync the fins at this point or just wait until after the latch has been replaced?

It’s a shame, I had a parts 2002 Rover and have all of the lock actuators as spares, but discovered yesterday that they apparently changed at least the plugs between 1999 and 2000, and so they don’t seem to be an option as a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow, thank you! I’ll give that a go this afternoon!

Should I need to sync the fins at this point or just wait until after the latch has been replaced?

It’s a shame, I had a parts 2002 Rover and have all of the lock actuators as spares, but discovered yesterday that they apparently changed at least the plugs between 1999 and 2000, and so they don’t seem to be an option as a replacement.
 

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Once it's un alarmed and un immobilsed you can sync the fobs, in fact, it might be a good idea as using teh key isn't going to work. However, if the keyswitch isn't working you won't be able to syn anyway as the BeCM won't know you're turning the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok that makes sense. So when I jumper the pins on the actuator harness if it locks again when I remove it, how will I be able to start the truck?

Obviously it will lock again with the driver door open, so is that the difference maker?
 

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Because it locks without the key switch operating so it thinks you have unlocked the door, got in and immediately locked the doors again by pressing the sill button down. Once you've got it running you can plug the latch back in and that should put a ground out on the CDL line and unlock all the doors anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok great! It was raining yesterday, but I’ll be able to give this a try today. I’ll report back :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just to double check, the wire colours that you told me need grounding are for a 1999 Range Rover, not the 2000-2002 Rovers with the different lock actuator wiring?

Cheers!
 

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Same colours on all models from the very early (with a socket actually on the latch) to the last with the flying leads and inline socket. The wiring is identical, it is just the connectors that changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quick question: are the lock actuators the same between 1999 and 2002 just with different sockets?

If they are I could splice the old harness into the 2002 actuators I have sitting in a box, rather than sourcing a replacement 1999 lock actuators
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It worked!!!! A few extra tibbits:

I had to also unplu the separate ground wire plug to the actuator. And the loop between the wires has to have an exposed bit to ground out. I used a wire with an alligator clip at each end, and a bit of paper clip in each jaw. I plugged each end in and then tapped the clips to the window regulator frame.

Voila, doors unlocked for a second and I could then start the truck!

Thanks so much for your help, now I have to source a driver door lock actuator
 
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