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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guy's

I've had my 6th p38 for 2 years & with the colder weather noticed that the heaters art getting above warm.

The temperature gauge doesn't move off the start point, so I'm thinking that its overcooling due to the viscous clutch.

Now looking around, i noticed that if you search for a p38 viscous you have to buy the complete fan assembly, however if you look at the omega 2.5 diesel (same engine) you can just buy the clutch & use your existing fan blades at a fraction of the cost.

Has anyone done this before & does it work?

Id appreciate any advice.

Many thanks in advance

Ash
 

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The fan itself is a lot more powerful on the Range Rover.
Rover to the left and Omega and BMW I guess to the right.

With that said I did use the Opel one for a while after the original one seemed to lock up too much. Roaring turbo jet motor noise when revving the engine.
But the opel one I had was not much better it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks for your help, this is the information that I've been after..

Does anyone know the best/cheapest place to get a new one from??

Thanks
 

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I would think the thermostat is shot, as this is what regulates the motor temperature, not the fan. For a short term fix, blank off some of the radiator (on the front side) with a bit of newspaper to reduce the cooling of the radiator.
 

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Whenever I travel north of the boarder into Canadian winter territory or temps drop below 20 around here I used to have the same issue. I've never had a P38 that warmed up if it is much below freezing. I have a piece of plexiglass I slide between the radiator and condensor to block half off. Just like big rigs covering their grills with quilted wind blocks that snap in place. Temp reaches normal, heater works great and the rig is happy. You can use cardboard, but make sure to let it completely dry prior to removing.
 

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If you want to change the VC unit, the 300TDI unit is a direct fit. For more details try Landyzone
 

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Try the rolled-up newspaper test. At idle you should be able to stop the fan with the newspaper. If it rips the paper to bits, then the viscous is seized. It's supposed to slip until the viscous gets quite hot from the engine.

Much cheaper and easier to remove & test the thermostat in a kettle. If it doesn't work replace it, but do test the replacement just in case. Many folks have seen faulty "OEM replacement" parts, especially sh1tpart.
 

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+1 on faulty thermostat. On my old jeep, I discovered that the PO had removed the thermostat entirely (presumably for a roadside overheat repair) and it never made it to operating temp.

On my P38, although mine is a gas 4.6, the fan is always on when the engine is running (I realize the VC is probably faulty, but better than it never coming on), and it still makes it to operating temp despite 20 degree F weather.
 

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As Kapila said, the 300TDi viscous coupling unit fits the diesel. It is part no. ERR2266. I fitted one several years ago and it has been fine.
Unscrewing the old one is tricky as the bolts have a domed head. Hold the head in a vice to unscrew and then replace with new hex bolts.
 
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