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1999 P38 EAS Fault

4K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  NorCal RR 
#1 ·
Please check the description on video
 
#2 ·
You have a bad leak somewhere. You need to do the repairs in several related steps. (Sorry - I didn't watch the vid to the end - the faults seemed pretty clear to me)

1) Find the leak or leaks with a spray bottle filled with water and a bit of dishwashing liquid. Spray around the valve block and look for the air bubbles. It's hissing badly so that should not be hard. You might have several leaks.

2) Your compressor is shot - I can hear it on the video. It's been working overtime against the leak. Get a rebuild kit from X8R on eBay and restore it.

3) Download the free EAS unlock software and make up the cable so you can reset the system OR order the EAS kicker from Black Box solutions to reset the system.

4) Investigate all four air springs for leaks at different ride heights.

Don't bother putting it all back together until you've found the leaks; your compressor will quickly fail again.

If I've missed anything important, others here will chime in...

Tom
 
#3 ·
thank you very much for your input as for The OBD2 port to a serial connector, I have just ordered and I have also ordered a valve block, a new valve rebuild kit with O-rings I however do not believe my compressor Is shot, after removing the hissing cable from where the leak was coming from, I could feel the air escaping from wHat’s supposed to go to tHe air tank. what’s weird is that all 4 airbags are still raised and haven’t hit the bump stops. Hmm. it’s been like this for about two weeks and hasn’t lowered once. Once again, The line that’s supposed to go to the tank is completely disconnected now from my valve block until I receive my replacement kit from eBay, that’s when I believe everything will be working but this is all ultimately a theory, I Hope it does lol.
 
#4 ·
You'll find out soon enough. Once you remove the vale block, rebuild it and reinstall it you will need a healthy compressor to charge the tank and the bags. Yours sounds bad. Expect the worst. Best to order the kit and do that too. Do it all once and do it right...otherwise you'll be like certain people on this page (cough).

Check for white powder in the valve block - that indicates failed dessicant in the dryer. Good news for you is that all four air springs sound like they're in good nick.

What else is beeping on your dash there? Apart from the windows not set and EAS faults.
 
#5 ·
You'll find out soon enough. Once you remove the vale block, rebuild it and reinstall it you will need a healthy compressor to charge the tank and the bags. Yours sounds bad. Expect the worst. Best to order the kit and do that too. Do it all once and do it right...otherwise you'll be like certain people on this page (cough).

Check for white powder in the valve block - that indicates failed dessicant in the dryer. Good news for you is that all four air springs sound like they're in good nick.
Will do man!
 
#8 ·
One owner has just rebuilt his valve block with a set of seals from 4x4Airseals and ended up with more leaks than he had before. X8R kits don't leak, or never have when I've used them, check eBay for them.
 
#10 ·
I can add a couple items to the above...
Where that line enters the box it is inserted into the collet which has a rubber O ring. Given the age of the vehicle its at or near failure. When you order the piston seal kit order a few O rings. The connection into the air manifold is a "butt" connection with no real clamp or seal other than the tiny O ring. Also the end of the airline must be cut perfectly flush for best results.

The compressor rebuild is simple and relatively cheap. These Thompson pumps are durable and will outlive the rest of it with a rebuild.
 
#11 ·
It sounds like that connection is leaking. Fix that, reset the hard fault and go from there. I agree that the compressor sounds loud but bad mounting brackets can cause it to rattle. Start with the know issue, getting it sealed up and then you can measure run time to fill the system and determine if it needs a rebuild. I would wait on the valve block unless you have determined the leak is coming from there. Your air springs staying pumped up despite the leak makes sense. That leaking line is your high pressure line to the air reservoir. The valve block dispenses air from there to the springs through some non-return valves. So the compressor is trying to fill the reservoir which it can't due to the leaks so you get a hard fault. When a line to an air spring leaks, it won't sit level.
 
#12 ·
There should be two O rings on each pipe connection. The pump is rattling around because the washers on the mounts are missing, there should be a pair of cupped washers on each mount, bottom ones are fitted convex side up, top ones are fitted convex side down. The hard fault occurs when the ECU commands the height to change, which, if there is insufficient air in the reservoir, causes the pump to run. If it doesn't see a change from the height sensors within a certain time, it detects an error so hard faults and doesn't try to run the pump to stop it from wearing itself out. Fix the leaks, reset the fault and to be on the safe side get a rebuild kit for the compressor as it is probably 3 parts worn out by now.
 
#13 ·
One more thing. You mentioned "electrical issues" in the video. Electrical issues are rare in the EAS. The hard fault is occurring doing what it is supposed to do, stop the system from self-destructing. The only electrical issue I've had was a bad driver block and that is very different, you start getting weird error on an otherwise sound system.
 
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