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Discussion Starter #1
It appears that the problem of low beams (dipped headlights) not working is not uncommon. In my case, the low beams and the associated illumination for the instrument cluster do not operate. However, in searching the forum, I am unable to determine what the next step is once the 10 steps of electrical trouble shooting (ref: sticky) have been resolved and the problem remains. The result of the sticky steps was a determination that the battery was failing, so replaced the battery. No other faults in the electrical system were discovered. I have checked all fuses (not that this issue is associated with fuses, but just as a matter of course), and everything is in proper order.

My tentative conclusion is that the issue remains with the BeCM. But, what this may mean, and if, in fact, it is the source of the continued failure of the low beams to illuminate remains open to question. This failure showed up yesterday for the first time ever, and of course, I am to leave today on a road trip. If this is a BeCM issue, until I can get it serviced (reprogrammed?), is there a way to hardwire the low beams directly from the battery with a remote switch? High beams operate in flick mode, and turn signals operate, but no fog lights (of course?). Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. (I can give the test results of the electrical troubleshooting if required, but all tests, with new battery, are normal and only the battery test failed previously).

Note: All service on the vehicle is up to date, with the only functional issues remaining unaddressed being (a) the cruise control (had fixed all the vacuum tubes, and it operated temporarily, then failed, so I am suspecting the plenum failed once the vacuum was restored to the system, but have not had the time to trouble shoot it further), and (b) leaky front diff, to be addressed shortly.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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those way more intimate with BECM's will chuck in their professional guidance BUT as you seem to be in immediate need you;ve in my opinion 2 routes -- go thru RAVE and check which pins should have the power out to the headlamps assuming the switch is OK, OR for a radical 'quickie' wire low beams on a separate circuit and switch -- just be careful to use 'proper' joints (no want darkness unexpectedly) and respect local laws on lighting (as if you wouldn't :) ) to have mains but no dips to me points to the BECM but I've only had mine for nearly 5 years so still a virgin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

Is your high beam only operational in "Flick" mode? If this is the case I suspect that your light switch is the problem. It would be too much of a coincidence that the instrument back lights and both lights are broken all at the same time.

Jump the wires from the connector from 3 to 1 of the light switch. This is from the black to the orange/red wire.

Good luck

Jos
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

Sorry I gave you the wrong wire information just now


You have to ground the wire from switch 2 so connection between 4 and 3, the black and blue wire. Or alternatively take the blue wire from connector C257 on the BECM and ground it.



This connector is easier to get to then at the back of the light switch.

Regards

Jos
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you Scimitar and Jos.

@ Jos, great thought and my money is on the hypothesis that it is the switch. I investigate the issue. In the interim, (the time it took for the site to evaluate and approve my post, I picked up a pair of head light connectors, a switch and the wiring in order to run the headlights directly off the battery and thereby bypassing the existing circuitry without modifying the existing hardware in the vehicle. The rear lights are more problematic, so I just ran a pair of spare lights (what you would pick up for a trailer), and mounted them through the tail gate. At least I am running! Actually, it looks kinda impressive....for now.

But, yea, will trouble shoot the switch...and will report back.
 
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