im new to the forum and got myself a 97 4.6 hse but as soon as i drove it out of the auction it overheaed and as i can get a full engine for 350 im going for it. Is their any advice? step throughts? tips anything anyone can give me to make it go that little bit easier for me? im going for it on saturday and sunday any help would be gratefully appreciated
1997 4.6 engine swap
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Welcome to the site and provide more details as to where you are. Above posts are valid unless you meant 3.5 oz of gold for the engine. Did the engine get totally trashed on overheat? Please check all parts of the cooling system for proper operation before running a replacement motor and learn the proper way to bleed air from the system when you refill. Note that debris can easily plug the bleeder line from the rad to the resevoir tank. You should always see water/bubbles flowing into the resevoir. Also use correct coolant in the system. Please update and elaborate. Kmagnuss has a good track record so that's your benchmark to prove him wrong or correct. 
Welcome to the site and provide more details as to where you are. Above posts are valid unless you meant 3.5 oz of gold for the engine. Did the engine get totally trashed on overheat? Please check all parts of the cooling system for proper operation before running a replacement motor and learn the proper way to bleed air from the system when you refill. Note that debris can easily plug the bleeder line from the rad to the resevoir tank. You should always see water/bubbles flowing into the resevoir. Also use correct coolant in the system. Please update and elaborate. Kmagnuss has a good track record so that's your benchmark to prove him wrong or correct.
Im in the uk. Firstly i know the place the engine is coming from and have used them for years so i know the engine is good and they did me a good price as i use them regularly. Im a apprentice trained technician so im handy with the spanners and have done a few engine swaps but nothing as big as a 4.6. thanks for the genuine replys i didnt feel the posts taking the piss where needed though. I bought a dog and i have no choice other than to do the engine swap to try and not lose a bomb on it. Ive tryed bleeding it etc but when i was bleeding it the oil light come on and it had lost most of its oil and started knocking so i know ive got to change it. Any genuine advice wil be greatly recieved
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Rover Aftermarket Viewing Environment... or some such thing. It's the electronic shop manual. Google will give you a few places for download. Rave will suggest pulling engine and tranny as a unit. I pulled the front and top of my engine apart and then pulled the block. The directions in RAVE for each part are very detailed and a terrific guide.joolsnr said:sorry for my ignorance what is rave?
From my experience the P38 is the easiest engine swap i've donw.
Important Notes:
- You can undo bellhousing bolts from behind transfer case using a couple of wobble bars (2 X 300mm and 1 X 100mm and 1 X Sidchrome Uni Joint)
- Removing the Sump gives you easier access to to the Torque converter bolts. Beware of the revised Torque of 65nm (not 40nm as specified in RAVE)
- A/C and Power steering pump come off as one assembly. I usually remove the Airbox and cabletie into the free spot.
- Do not remove torque converter with engine as it can damage the bushes.
- Make sure you check the nose of the torque converter and the spigot aligner (back of the crankshaft for wear) otherwise it will cause vibrations and you will break flexplates. Ask me how I know.
Otherwise its a pretty standard engine swap.
Stu
Important Notes:
- You can undo bellhousing bolts from behind transfer case using a couple of wobble bars (2 X 300mm and 1 X 100mm and 1 X Sidchrome Uni Joint)
- Removing the Sump gives you easier access to to the Torque converter bolts. Beware of the revised Torque of 65nm (not 40nm as specified in RAVE)
- A/C and Power steering pump come off as one assembly. I usually remove the Airbox and cabletie into the free spot.
- Do not remove torque converter with engine as it can damage the bushes.
- Make sure you check the nose of the torque converter and the spigot aligner (back of the crankshaft for wear) otherwise it will cause vibrations and you will break flexplates. Ask me how I know.
Otherwise its a pretty standard engine swap.
Stu
So far today i spent alot of time removing the wiring loom as not to upset the lpg wiring. Lost loads of time with a bolt that rounded of on the plate that bolts to the gearbox. Has anyone here had to remove the sump to get to the torque converter bolts? i couldnt see any other way. Also hows best to get to the top bell housing bolts if i still have all the cats etc in situ? Its going to be out tomoorow if it likes it or not.
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27,964 Posts
Removing the sump make many things much easier. The bell housing bolts have been noted above with extensions and socket u joints. A second pair of hands to hold the sockets on the four upper bolts also helps.
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1,707 Posts
We started work yesterday, in between things.
After some fiddling I got all of the bellhousing bolts out (I want to leave the transmission in place, as the 4.6 will now be mated with a manual).
AC-compressor has been removed and found a temparary spot where the airbox used to be, so no need to undo the pipes.
Still contemplating if I will do the same with the servo-pump or disconnect the system (and give it a good flush).
I'm gonna try and leave the loom in place as much as possible, and disconnect it at the ECU.
Radiator is easy enough to remove, hoping the oilcoolers and AC-conensor won't be to much in the way.
The drive plate bolts seem to be impossible to get to, so I won't get out of removing the sump.
After some fiddling I got all of the bellhousing bolts out (I want to leave the transmission in place, as the 4.6 will now be mated with a manual).
AC-compressor has been removed and found a temparary spot where the airbox used to be, so no need to undo the pipes.
Still contemplating if I will do the same with the servo-pump or disconnect the system (and give it a good flush).
I'm gonna try and leave the loom in place as much as possible, and disconnect it at the ECU.
Radiator is easy enough to remove, hoping the oilcoolers and AC-conensor won't be to much in the way.
The drive plate bolts seem to be impossible to get to, so I won't get out of removing the sump.
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