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Discussion Starter #21
Neilflixes- I have never heard of a inlet air bypass "tulip" valve . The tulip word has thrown me off. Could you describe where that is located ? I'll honestly look it up online myself but reassurance is always nice . As an update I have found and ordered a genuine mass air flow sensor . It should be in by the end of the week. Crossing fingers as I haven't had much free time due to working out of town latley
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Hello everyone ! It's been a while but I finnaly put in a new to me genuine MAF sensor and in having problems with the RSW solutions software ATM so im unable to reset my adaptive values. But in still having the same issues.. seems to idle fine and when I give it throttle I can hear air whooshing around my MAF (no oring I don't even think my original MAF had a oring for the front to connect to the airbox tube to be quite honest) it will cut out and the Rpms will drop . If im very gentle with my throttle my Rpms will raise slightly but never over 1000 rpm.... This is getting very FRUSTRATING (I just wanna scream) for me.. im so tempted to bring it to a land rover shop .. the closest one is a hour away though and it would need to be towed.. any words of advice ? There is a shop that is 35 kms away ... They specialize in European veichles. I've had my car there a few times to get checked out and a few parts repalced but Ive always have had trouble with them. They do have a 2 year or 30,000 km warranty that I currently have on my fuel pump, alternator since they replaced those .. but I've only driven it 600 km since it was last at the shop.. that was like 3 months ago when this problem arrived shortly after the shop visit. Long read im sorry. I just need to vent my frustrations
 

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Is your air filter new and the airways before the Maf unobstructed? Perhaps remove the air filter temporarily and see if it still behaves the same. You need to be able to reset though, to assess things in real time.
 

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I have no oring btw, maybe I should have, but mine works fine without
 

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Doing a couple of small checks on mine tonight I had the inlet hose and MAF off, so out of interest I tried starting it. Fired up immediately but wouldn't idle and died. Second time it not only idled, pretty rough and at about 400 rpm admittedly, but would rev if I opened the throttle. Only took it up to about 1,500 revs though as the intake roar was horrendous. So maybe you are looking in the wrong place....... Have you checked the fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Romanrob- air filter is not new but it is decently clean . Nothing is blocking the air passageways
richardG- I have personally not checked the fuel pressure myself . When it was at the shop they replaced my fuel pump, fuel filter. I did ask and they told me the fuel pressure was good, they confirmed I was getting spark as well . I said fine I left it at that since i was able to drive for 600 kms with no issues
The only fault code I got was P1775..

On another note. I have found some corrosion on a white connector by my interia switch hopefully the photo will upload... I have no clue what this is for exactly but I am going to try and get around to cleaning the connectors ,cutting and adding new wires for it .. any suggestions for that ? Or is it worthwhile to replace the whole connector itself ..


My boss has told me today that I am able to use a trailer and a work truck to bring the Rover to a shop to get looked at if I like. Im thinking about doing that soon in the near future . Quite frankly between work and personal life I only have a few hours every two weeks to look at the Rover and swear at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
This is the corrosion I have noticed on the white connection by my interia switch on my right passanger side of veichle . Could anyone give me some insight on what these wires may be for ? Would it be better to cut the wires and take out the pins in the connectors(male and female) and clean it and than rewire it . Or replace the connectors and wires along with it .
IMG_20190829_195518.jpg
15671311257575104224679980003687.jpg
lo
 

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Connector C102 (have you got the RAVE wiring diagrams?) connects BECM to HEVAC, ABS, Fusebox, ABS, Dash, ODB Port - so in my view unlikely to be your issue. I'd just clean it up with contact cleaner.

P1775 on other cars can be no signal between ECU and Gearbox - may be the crank sensor. Have you checked you crankshaft sensor and the pickups?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Tats- no I have not got the rave wiring diagrams. (I just did a Google search and found a workshop manual in PDF form so I'll looking at this for sure. ) and after looking at the link you added. I will have a look at the crank position sensor this weekend ( although it idles fine and then as I reach proper engine temp it will begin to lose idle rpm gradually, slowly. If I give it throttle it will cut out and want to die. . Let off throttle and it will jump back up to idle speed but will still gradually lower rpm and die eventually). I don't know if the cold water test would work for me because after it stalls or dies. It still starts up just fine (maybe another second) So I'll have to check the ac voltage coming from it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
After some reading on the workshop manual. I don't beilive it is the crank position sensor. But in going to be browsing this workshop manual for a bit . It includes the 4.0 and the 99 and above "Thor" engines but I have a 4.6 gems. So I need to make sure what im reading is for the correct engine
 

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Look at the stickies, the posts that always stay at the top of this forum, and look at the FAQ. There's a link to the full copy of RAVE which includes the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual and info on all models.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
currently fixing my wire issue by intera switch ..Out of curiosity and risk of looking like a fool..I have to ask ... I found my passanger side knock sensor unplugged with the sensor intact but the connector broken so it doesn't stay clipped in, it just falls off with ease (it was disconnected when I found it). Would that cause the ECU to do something that could "pull/limit fuel if it thinks it's misfiring or no data?) My knowledge is that the only thing a knock sensor does is listen for knocks..Again. I haven't/never gotten any misfiring codes before or anything (but rumor has it these veichles are finiky). It looks like it's been disconnected for a while judging by the dust,dirt in the male end . My next goal is to take off my crank position sensor and check the tip, (read I have to be careful about oring while removal and install) also My thought is it's worn out and not picking up when the engine is spining at a faster speed . wires looks in good shape with a healthy dose of oil coverage lol Dammit . (oh dearlord what a ackward spot to get at laying on the ground also) oxegyn sensors are also next on the list to check off as they look like the stock ones and extremely gunked up(penetrating fluid will be needed) just replaced them on GF'S car and it fixed her idle and driving issues . Sorry for all the questions and long paragraph.I feel incompetent not getting this veichle working it's starting to bring me down. Also Is it best to go with OEM for oxygen sensors?
Going to be doing electrical sticky soon, new alternator,battery . Need to check ignition coil pack still, hoping for the best also
need to pick up 9V battery for my multimeter as I left it on and forgot awhile ago
 

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For wiring work, you need to download the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM)...This stuff is not in the workshop manuals. Those connectors in the pillar have to be clean... they are the communicaton between the BECM, the ECU, the instruments, the doors, and the diagnostic port. Use a detarnishing cleaner, 'DEOXIT', (not cheap). There are also connectors in the left hand pillar that carry info for the HEVAC and EAS systems that similarly corrode.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hey everyone ! Just like to do a quick follow up .. so I just replaced my fuel pressure regulator tonight,l. It will idle fine and run fine now ! I checked fuel pressure and I am sitting at about 31 psi on the rail.. idles great and runs great. Went for a small drive around the block during the day and no problems... Well it's dark outside now so I turned my headlights on with car running and than my tachometer dropped to zero instantly. (but the engine still idles perfectly. Traction control light came on also as the headlights went on)
When I use the window switches to lower or raise windows my tachometer will.drop to zero also, and TC light comes on. ( Again engine idles fine now )
So im thinking when I have more free time I need to properly fix my corrosion issue now at the connector c102 by the intera switch . Also do another electrical sticky (I just used electrical cleaner the first time)
Also going to have to check out the drivers side (left) for corrosion as well as suggested. Looks like I'll be finding and replacing wires for a while now . That's it and all. I just wanted to give you guys a follow up on my idle and engine issues. Thanks for all the help and suggestions from everyone .
Classic range rover though fix one problem and 2 more appear!
 
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